I've sat here and stared at it for so long I don't even know anymore, besides putting on my theif disguise and attempting to steal my own bike.
Context: I know that no lock system is going to stop a thief, just deter them. I'm on a college campus that is infamous for bikes being stolen. I need the bike to get around and don't have the cash to replace it, so I've invested in decent locks, just wanna make sure I'm not wasting them by putting them on wrong.
1.) Is the u-lock on the front tire alright? I put it around the outside of the fork to reduce the amount of free space around the U piece. Only putting it through the spokes leaves a lot of room for thief tools otherwise.
2.) The chain is looped around my frame and then through the spokes of the back tire, making sure to put the chain through the rear triangle. So the rear wheel is locked to the frame and the frame is locked to the rack. Is this decent?
Note: the design of the bike rack doesn't allow me to lock all three parts directly to the rack, so I prioritized the front wheel (quick release) and frame.
by bumble_bee_bee47
8 Comments
It’s “locked” but only secured by that quick release skewer
It’s locked by the chain, very very securely.
The u lock is just locking the front wheel, though not very well.
Edit: Ah I just realized this is your bike. You should read this:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html
If you get a locking skewer for your front wheel you could secure the whole bike with a u lock. And depending on your commute you might be able to leave the heavy chain locked at your destination or maybe even at home. Those things are awesome but not really worth the weight for daily use carrying them around.
Seems fine, but I wouldn’t run my chain lock like this, I’d rather have it in a full loop around the items I’m locking down. The advantage of chain locks is that they get squirrelly and move around a lot when people attempt to hit them with a cutting wheel. By anchoring either end like you have here, you’ve eliminated that headache for a potential thief.
You’re still doing better than most people though.
Wire cutters can cut through four spokes pretty quick. Great lock. I would suggest a long kryptonite cable that is long enough to reach both wheels. Put the U-lock through the back wheel and frame. Put one eyelet of the cable in the u-lock and run it through the front wheel and frame and lock the second eyelet of the cable in the u-lock.
edit: my strategy is to always lock the rear wheel and frame with a u-lock as the rear wheel is far more expensive because of the cassette. Quick release skewers I always replace with keyed or Allen skewers. Just saw your last picture. Excellent. You could just lock the front rim and tire with the u-lock.
Get rid of the front U lock, run the chain through the front wheel before looping the other side through and going back to the rear U lock.
My standard method is:
-U lock through rear wheel, open end around seat tube
-chain around fixed locking point, through front wheel, back through frame triangle
-other end of chain through the loop to “lasso” the wheel and frame to the locking point
-connect free end of the chain to the u lock
I’d flip the bike around to secure the rear wheel and frame to the stand more directly.
Like others have mentioned, the rear wheel has the more expensive bits, so it’s worth prioritizing for that alone. The way you locked your front wheel here also puts you at risk of it being stolen.
anytime something is harder something else or a hassle… and here, looks ARE an important deterrent.
generally a win. no, this is not ideal *best practice*, but horses for courses. in a hurry?
better than nothing ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
a motivated thief is hard to impossible to stop. and layering for worst case has quickly diminishing returns.
becasue…. what was that: *a motivated thief is hard to impossible to stop*. just detour the EZ-opportunity seekers, and that’s the majority.
Your locks have more value than your bike. dude.