I’m building a Fairlight Strael 4 frame and have a problem with the bottom bracket…
It’s a BBR60 Hollowtech II BSA. The left side goes in fully by hand without a problem. However, the right side can only be fully turned about 2-3 times by hand and is then stuck at the grey thread, quite far out. I’m a bit concerned to continue screwing it in like this. I tried to be very careful with cross threading, and am quite sure that this is not the case here.
Does anyone have experience with this bottom bracket? Is it completely normal that one side is so smooth and another so difficult?
by luaks999
8 Comments
That’s how it supposed to be. The “grey” thing is a “glue” that locks BB in place.
Just tighten it to 40nM using tool (not by hand, you need tool) and you’ll be fine.
If you’re getting two revolutions and it is concentric to the bb shell, the threads are not cross threaded. Use a tool.
If you’re really worried, take it to a bike shop and have it chased and faced.
Put the tool on there and tighten it to torque spec. It’s nothing whatsoever to worry about.
Sometimes it gets a bit stiff. One, is it greased? If not, do so.
Two, give it a gentle turn with a tool. Cross threading takes a good bit of effort, but often between the threadlocker (the grey stuff) and tolerances stuff gets a little bit stiff and just needs a little nudge along with a tool to bottom it out.
The frame‘s made for 68mm Bottom brackets, but you might have a 73mm bottom bracket.
You can just buy two bottom bracket spacers with 2,5mm width and put one on each side and you are good to go.
Double check that it’s going in straight, and then just send it.
For threaded BB, you should be able to fully thread both cups in by hand before you torque to spec. If you can’t, the threads need to be chased. Thread lock compound will not bind enough to stop threading the BB on, and only activates once the BB is tight and the compound is in an anerobic state.
Sure, you can use a tool to thread the stubborn cup on, but this may introduce slight misalignment of the BB assembly that results in a less efficient spin of the bearings, which then steals watts.
Chase the threads, then face only if needed, grease the BB threads, install cups, and torque to spec
Keep goin!