I finally fixed the issue where my seatpost slowly goes down as I'm riding (turns out actually tightening the bolt helps, who would've known) but now my back hurts a bit after riding as i'm basically slouching down to reach the handlebars. I tried removing that GIANT (as in my 22mm spanner was too small) bolt, but to no avail.
Is it really possible to increase the height? Do I need to buy a brand new tool for this?
by DarkGaming09ytr
7 Comments
You could try rotating the handlebars to point up instead of forward, like riser bars.
The large nut is to adjust your headset bearings. Or more accurately, to lock down the top headset bearing race.
You need an allen wrench/key to loosen the allen bolt at the top of your stem to raise it (but it honestly already looks pretty high). There should be a mark on the stem noting the maximum height- Obviously, don’t exceed that. If you still need more height, you’ll need to get a different stem that is longer or with more rise to it and/or different handlebars with more rise.
It looks like the stem is already up as far as it goes.
You adjust the height of the stem by loosening the Allen key at the top, once it’s loose you can tap it with a hammer or wrench to break the quill free. You then can lift the stem to a higher position (paying attention to the max height marks on the stem) and tighten the Allen bolt back down.
Your best bet is either A. Get a new stem with some rise or B. Get used to the position. Typically the handlebars are at the level or below the level of the seat for able bodied people.
The stem looks to be near its maximum height, but if you loosen the bolt at the top that should free it to adjust the stem vertically. There will be a “max height” line inscribed on the post of the stem. Don’t go beyond that. If you need more height, look for tall 1″ quill stems. Your local bike co-op/kitchen could also potentially help you with his setup on the cheap.
Watch a video on how to adjust a quill stem and follow the instructions. Don’t try random things on a safety critical part of the bike when you don’t know what you’re doing. 6mm Allen key and a hammer/mallet to break the internal wedge free are what is needed here.
You can only safely raise the stem as far as the max height marking – hatched line around the stem. It already looks quite high so might already be pretty much at the safe limit.
If you can’t safely raise it more then you will have to buy a taller 1″ quill stem, plus fit longer cables if the height is too much for your current ones. If in doubt, take it to a bike shop.
You can also rotate the bars toward you to gain some extra height. This depends on the shape of the bars though, if they are back swept then rotating them up will make the grip area slope download which will be very uncomfortable. It would help to post another photo that shows the shape of the whole handlebar.
If the bars are of a suitable shape, you do that with the nut at the back. This will make the brake levers point upward so you need to rotate them downward to compensate. Again you might find that your cables are not long enough to accomplish this safely in which case you’d need to buy and fit new inner and outer brake cables.
The stem already looks pretty high, if you have riser bars and you still feel stretched out the frame may just be too big for you. Also I would not ride the bike while the brake cabling is in that condition, it’s not safe.
The big nut is for the fork of the bike, not for the handlebars. The stem is adjusted by the allen key on the top.
I had the same problem on my bike, had a similar stem, and had to replace it with one that points upwards. Get a rubber mallet if you don’t have one, because the stems are seized 9/10 times, and find a stem that rises higher. Not a difficult job.
Also your next job should be replacing the brake housings (probably cables too if they’re frayed at the ends)