Český Krumlov, Czech Republic: Bohemia’s Time-Warp Town

More info about travel to Český Krumlov: https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/czech-republic/cesky-krumlov The enchanting town of Český Krumlov — buried in the hills of Bohemia, lassoed by its river and dominated by its castle — feels lost in a time warp. Its delightful Old Town of shops and cobbled lanes, characteristic little restaurants, and easy going canoeing options, makes it a favorite with tourists.

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Moving on, we enter
the region of Bohemia. This part of the Czech Republic,
closest to Germany, is much-appreciated
for its pastoral countryside, and floating a few hours
down the Vltava River through Bohemian
forests and villages, you see why. Families and gangs of friends
enjoy multi-day river trips. These guys aren’t letting
a little rain dampen their spirits. Anyone passing through
can rent a canoe and enjoy a paddle,
short or long. Float companies pick you up
and drop you at convenient and scenic spots
of your choice. Going with the flow
takes you to my favorite stop
in the Czech countryside outside of Prague,
Cesky Krumlov. The enchanting town
of Cesky Krumlov — buried in the hills of Bohemia, lassooed by its river,
and dominated by its castle — feels lost in a time warp. Its delightful old town
of shops and cobbled lanes, characteristic
little restaurants, and easy-going
canoeing options makes it a favorite
with tourists. And there’s no shortage
of accommodations. Our home is
the Castleview Apartments. Plush and thoughtfully equipped, my room is typical of
the work locals are doing, as even medieval lofts
are being renovated to meet the needs of
the growing number of visitors. Open beams, a handy kitchenette, and, as its name promises,
a castle view, make this
a fine temporary home. With a natural moat
provided by the Vltava River, it’s no wonder this place
has been a choice spot for ages. The 16th century
was the town’s Golden Age when Cesky Krumlov
was a cultural power, hosting artists,
scientists, and alchemists from all over Europe. The town’s many tourists
set their sights on the mighty castle
of the Rosenberg family. For three centuries,
until about 1600, the Rosenbergs,
Bohemia’s top noble family, ran the city
from this perch. Its 16th-century
Renaissance paint job is fancifully restored. Visitors wait
their appointed time for a tour
in the castle courtyard. The interior gives a glimpse
of the ultimate in Bohemian noble living
through the ages. Imagine being a guest
back in the 16th century of this man,
Count Rosenberg. You’d enjoy the scenes
frescoed here which celebrate
a Rosenberg family wedding. Then, riding his assembly line
of fine living, you’d dine here. Come back two centuries later,
and you’d dine here. And, if the countess
tired of your company, she’d retire
to her adjacent bedroom, but only after a servant lit the candles on her
Meissen porcelain chandelier. And of course,
the party would go on, perhaps with a Venetian-style
masquerade party in the ballroom. For a little fresh air, you’d hike down
this corridor 150 yards to the count’s
formal garden. But don’t forget, at 8:00 P.M.,
the candles would be lit for a play
in the baroque theater. Europe once had several hundred
fine baroque theaters like this. Using candles
and oil lamps for light and pyrotechnics
for special effects, eventually,
most of them burned down. Today, only four survive
that are in beautiful shape and open to the public, like this one here
at Krumlov Castle. [ Whirring ] Baroque theater
was all about melodrama. Lighting, perspective,
and sound effects were all melodramatic. Even the weather was thrilling, with machines to make
horrifying wind… [ Whirring ] [ Rough whirring ] A driving rainstorm… [ Rough whirring ] [ Rumbling ] And menacing thunder. Even back then, it was all about
special effects.