Try using a rubber mallet and smack it at the top. Also spray some WD-40 to lube it up. Or at this point. Use a real hammer. Cuz those forks seen better days I’m guessing, just try not to damage the frame
Objective-Limit-121 on
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again…
Hit it with your purse
psyentologists on
In addition to what others have said, if you haven’t got a rubber mallet, put a block of wood over the steerer and give it some good whacks. It’ll come out.
Mountain-Credit5498 on
Find a way to press it out then… I guess … use some kind of vice or clamp.?
Mountain-Credit5498 on
Why is it stuck tho
GravelWarlock on
Since you’ve already done a hammer and a rock, I’d try and take that last spacer and top cap off. The headset might be locked on from a compression ring under that topcap
sanjuro_kurosawa on
Let’s play it this way:
The steerer goes through headset caps, bearing rings (which are sealed or loose), a few spacers, and of course, the frame headtube.
Normally while these pieces are snug fitting, none of them should be so tightly fitting they wouldn’t slide off when you smack the fork with a mallet. Typically, the fork just drops out the frame when you remove the top cap and stem.
While this may not free your fork, I would remove all the headset pieces you can.
I’m guessing the steerer is slightly damaged, either a bend or a chip in the metal, and the headset will not get past that section.
If that is the case, if you cannot work the headset piece off, then you’ll have to cut it off. Alternately, if the steerer is severely damaged, you could cut the steerer. The steerer would likely have to be replaced, or maybe even the whole fork. Naturally cutting the headset will mean at least that piece, if not the whole headset, will have to be replaced.
ddarth7 on
A few ugga duggas and it should come right out. Get a friend to hold the front end in the air and you smack it as hard as you can. A block of wood on top and go off. Also, get the top of the headset off to see what’s up.
UrIsNotAWord on
You need to take off the spacer and the upper headset pieces first. Since it’s a threadless headset, there will be a compression ring underneath that cover piece, that’s likely what is preventing you from removing the fork by just banging on it with a mallet.
This freezes whatever is is spray on. It will shrink and crack the rust that has expanded and seized your steer tube. It is far more penetrating than classic penetrating oil. Once it has worked its way thru, get out the hammer and a block of wood and smack that for outta there.
I work in a used bike shop and use Chill Zone almost daily. Mostly for seat posts and corroded water bottle bolts
Most shops don’t carry it in stock, and you most likely won’t find it in a hardware store.
CRC makes Freeze Off, which is widely available, but the chemicals that eats away at the rust it can be too harsh on aluminum parts (it can hard anodize aluminum and make it brittle)
Worst case you just go ahead and replace your headset.
ramakharma on
Emery the rust off above the spacer and lay into it. If that still doesn’t shift it, use a bit of heat.
Wolfy35 on
Of course you have removed the compression ring that should be just above the top bearing race haven’t you?
Because if not hitting the steerer with anything will only wedge it in tighter…
15 Comments
Rubber mallet.
Try using a rubber mallet and smack it at the top. Also spray some WD-40 to lube it up. Or at this point. Use a real hammer. Cuz those forks seen better days I’m guessing, just try not to damage the frame
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again…
Hit it with your purse
In addition to what others have said, if you haven’t got a rubber mallet, put a block of wood over the steerer and give it some good whacks. It’ll come out.
Find a way to press it out then… I guess … use some kind of vice or clamp.?
Why is it stuck tho
Since you’ve already done a hammer and a rock, I’d try and take that last spacer and top cap off. The headset might be locked on from a compression ring under that topcap
Let’s play it this way:
The steerer goes through headset caps, bearing rings (which are sealed or loose), a few spacers, and of course, the frame headtube.
Normally while these pieces are snug fitting, none of them should be so tightly fitting they wouldn’t slide off when you smack the fork with a mallet. Typically, the fork just drops out the frame when you remove the top cap and stem.
While this may not free your fork, I would remove all the headset pieces you can.
I’m guessing the steerer is slightly damaged, either a bend or a chip in the metal, and the headset will not get past that section.
If that is the case, if you cannot work the headset piece off, then you’ll have to cut it off. Alternately, if the steerer is severely damaged, you could cut the steerer. The steerer would likely have to be replaced, or maybe even the whole fork. Naturally cutting the headset will mean at least that piece, if not the whole headset, will have to be replaced.
A few ugga duggas and it should come right out. Get a friend to hold the front end in the air and you smack it as hard as you can. A block of wood on top and go off. Also, get the top of the headset off to see what’s up.
You need to take off the spacer and the upper headset pieces first. Since it’s a threadless headset, there will be a compression ring underneath that cover piece, that’s likely what is preventing you from removing the fork by just banging on it with a mallet.
https://preview.redd.it/y4lw6bng6xuf1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a07803934f2f0fd49829377a2ce8451cc26647cf
This freezes whatever is is spray on. It will shrink and crack the rust that has expanded and seized your steer tube. It is far more penetrating than classic penetrating oil. Once it has worked its way thru, get out the hammer and a block of wood and smack that for outta there.
I work in a used bike shop and use Chill Zone almost daily. Mostly for seat posts and corroded water bottle bolts
Most shops don’t carry it in stock, and you most likely won’t find it in a hardware store.
CRC makes Freeze Off, which is widely available, but the chemicals that eats away at the rust it can be too harsh on aluminum parts (it can hard anodize aluminum and make it brittle)
Worst case you just go ahead and replace your headset.
Emery the rust off above the spacer and lay into it. If that still doesn’t shift it, use a bit of heat.
Of course you have removed the compression ring that should be just above the top bearing race haven’t you?
Because if not hitting the steerer with anything will only wedge it in tighter…
https://preview.redd.it/az8vsvq1gxuf1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=181dc7825b354d96c4dadb6b16342288ac490af4
This will do it. And it’ll polish chrome too.
Deadblow mallet to the end of the steering tube. After you get it to move a few millimeters, you can separate the forcing cone from the top race.