Not sure I can see anything wrong here. If its the teeth on the chainring, then they have different profiles to allow you to change between the 2 chainrings easily.
Noting to worry about if it is working OK.
If you want to check the wear on the chain, then buy a chain wear checker from Amazon or your local bike shop….only cheap.
Worldly_Possible2925 on
Yup. See the way some of the teeth look like shark fins ? That’s the chain wearing through the tooth. Yours is well done.
RibEyeSequential on
Compared to the fsa chainring I was working with today, no, you’re good
psyentologists on
It’s shows a decent amount of wear, but I’d ride that chainring for a few thousand more miles before it concerned me.
New_Physics_2741 on
You can continue to use this for a good 3000km – IMHO~
So, replace the chain when it’s due. IF, after replacing the chain, the new chain *skips across the top of the teeth* when under load, or the chain suffers “chain suck” (where the lower run of chain follows the chainring up the back side of the ring instead of departing the chainring straight to the lower rear derailleur jockey wheel THEN you know you need a new chainring.
oldfrancis on
Does it skip with a brand new chain?
Beneficial_Shape_466 on
That’s not a sprocket. It’s a chainring.
Sprockets or cogs on a cassette. Chainrings on a crankset.
crazy4schwinn on
I wouldn’t replace it until you had the dough to replace the whole drivetrain. New Chainrings, new chain and new cassette. The frustration you will avoid will far outweigh the modest cost of the new components. Most people ride in a few favorite gear combinations. Once those combinations have worn in any change in any part of that configuration can lead to chain skip, chain suck or mis-shifting.
Expert-Pumpkin-2457 on
I rode an FSA chain ring for several thousand miles on a gravel bike. Worked flawlessly until it didn’t and I dropped a relatively new chain three times on a ride. I checked out the other adjustments and they were fine. That told me I most likely needed new chainrings. They didn’t look horrendous but they were definitely worn.
North_Rhubarb594 on
A few teeth look worn down. If you keep dropping your chain off the big ring then chances are you need a new one.
11 Comments
Not sure I can see anything wrong here. If its the teeth on the chainring, then they have different profiles to allow you to change between the 2 chainrings easily.
Noting to worry about if it is working OK.
If you want to check the wear on the chain, then buy a chain wear checker from Amazon or your local bike shop….only cheap.
Yup. See the way some of the teeth look like shark fins ? That’s the chain wearing through the tooth. Yours is well done.
Compared to the fsa chainring I was working with today, no, you’re good
It’s shows a decent amount of wear, but I’d ride that chainring for a few thousand more miles before it concerned me.
You can continue to use this for a good 3000km – IMHO~
Replace the chain when the chain is worn. Use a quality chain checking tool that doesn’t double-count bushing slop. You can tell these because they look like the Park Tool [CC-4.2](https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/chain-checker-cc-4-2?category=Chain), NOT the Park Tool [CC-3.2](https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/chain-wear-indicator-cc-3-2?category=Chain). A proper tool must index the chain by the “front side” of the roller, and thus needs two contact points on the back.
So, replace the chain when it’s due. IF, after replacing the chain, the new chain *skips across the top of the teeth* when under load, or the chain suffers “chain suck” (where the lower run of chain follows the chainring up the back side of the ring instead of departing the chainring straight to the lower rear derailleur jockey wheel THEN you know you need a new chainring.
Does it skip with a brand new chain?
That’s not a sprocket. It’s a chainring.
Sprockets or cogs on a cassette. Chainrings on a crankset.
I wouldn’t replace it until you had the dough to replace the whole drivetrain. New Chainrings, new chain and new cassette. The frustration you will avoid will far outweigh the modest cost of the new components. Most people ride in a few favorite gear combinations. Once those combinations have worn in any change in any part of that configuration can lead to chain skip, chain suck or mis-shifting.
I rode an FSA chain ring for several thousand miles on a gravel bike. Worked flawlessly until it didn’t and I dropped a relatively new chain three times on a ride. I checked out the other adjustments and they were fine. That told me I most likely needed new chainrings. They didn’t look horrendous but they were definitely worn.
A few teeth look worn down. If you keep dropping your chain off the big ring then chances are you need a new one.