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  1. Counter-intuitively, try tightening it a fraction – this can sometimes ‘break’ whatever is binding the thread.

    If that doesn’t work heat and/or cold on each of the spindle (cold ideally) and crank arm (hot) to use the contraction & expansion to ‘break’ the binding.

    Also, put the lever so it’s above the crank arm so you can squeeze the two together in the direction that will undo the pedal.

  2. Michael_of_Derry on

    Instead of an 8mm Allen key use a long ratchet with 3/8 square drive and an 8mm hex key bit. You’ll get more leverage and the 8mm bit won’t twist or bend unlike what happens with the Allen key:

  3. Reposition the wrench to the other side of the crank arm and get as close to parallel with the arm as possible…. Step n bounce on it

  4. what everyone else said, except that because the chainwheels are in the way, it’s going to be hard to create a “scissor” position with the right crank. I would reorient the crank and wrench so that it’s basically parallel with the left crank, so that you can equalize your forces. from the rear of the bike, with the right crank at 9 o’clock, you’re pushing down on the Allen wrench and pulling up on the left crank.

    but before you do anything else, shift the chain onto the large ring! I’ve put chainring teeth into a knuckle more times than I can count.

  5. karmadramadingdong on

    I like to approach from the other side (ie, from the front of the bike), then heave the wrench up while standing on the pedal.

  6. You need a longer bar with a socket end and try to brace the pedal and bike so it doesn’t move. Try some penetrating oil.

  7. When I have a stick pedal I swap out to a quality hex socket with ratchet. This makes sure I don’t strip the pedal

    My preferred method, bike upside down and hit the ratchet with a dead blow

  8. I had this once and what I did was pull the crank, put it in the bench vise with soft jaws and not too tight and then took the longest piece of steel tube I could find as a breaker bar. Not saying this is the best way but it worked for me 🤷🏻

  9. Greedy_Pomegranate14 on

    Try heat. The aluminum crank will expand more than the steel spindle when exposed to a heat gun.

  10. Zip tie the opposite crankarm to the chainstay to be able to apply more force to this one. Use a pedal wrench instead of the Allen key and maybe add a long piece of steel tube to add more leverage.

  11. Are you cranking in the right direction? The left and right pedals have opposite threading from each other usually one is reverse-threaded

  12. Either hold the wrench and step on the pedal, or hold the pedal and step on the wrench, depending on geometry

  13. Try putting in ice bucket (15-20 minutes). Then unscrew “clockwise” when looking at the allen key from the left side of the bike or counter clockwise when looking at the bike from the right side.

  14. I use the old inner tube technique. Insert hex at about a 45 degree angle then wrap a cut tube over the end of the hex then over the end of the crank, keep wrapping tightly. It’ll eventually give.

  15. Add some penetrating oil to the threads. And then leave it to penetrate for a few hours. Can also try to use compressed air can to cool the spindle. 

  16. AlternativeSuspect32 on

    I got you. You should get water boiling in a pot, stick your crank and pedal in the super hot water and let it rest for a minute or 2. Mind the hot components and give it a big push. Just like you did the other pedal. This worked for me on a 5 year old stuck pedal.

  17. You need more leverage. You can do that by making the handle longer with a pvc pipe or pipe-clamp a broom handle to the Allen key.

  18. Heat the crank arm with a gas flame or by slowly pouring boiling water over it. Aluminium expands more than steel.

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