I crashed my Transalp 650 in Bucovina. Tour of Romania S02E05

In this episode I travel to Romania where I crash my recently restored Transalp 650. I cook the clutch in some “engaging” mountain roads at the border with Ukraine, and I get “run over” by an ancient steam train while looking for some “eye candy” at Expo Moto Bucovina.

In this episode I travel to Romania where I crash my recently restored Transalp I burn the clutch in some “engaging” mountain roads at the border with Ukraine, and I get “run over” by an ancient steam train while looking for some “eye candy” And all that in one day of adventure in Europe’s last wilderness: Bucovina! TIMELESS & TRUE.BUCOVINA, ROMANIA From the top of mountains in Ireland I am now riding this Transalp 650 to the very North of Romania. I am in Suceava county with my friend, Viorel. We are heading North, to the border with Ukraine. Our first stop is near Radauți city at Expo Moto Bucovina, the largest motorcycle museum in Eastern Europe! “Killer” is the name of the company that funds this museum. They make delicious meat produce. Yes, I know, that sounds funny, but … I love their sausages, pastrami and salami! I cannot wait to see this motorcycle museum. It is a long overdue visit for me. This man is the mechanic that restored all the motorcycles in the expo. He is playing his favourite tune on an Indian motorcycle. I had to remove it from the video for copyright reasons. He seems delighted with our visit! Honestly, I am speechless. I cannot believe the number and the quality of these beautiful machines. The only motorcycle collection in Eastern Europe, currently with over 170 fully functional motorcycles! Here are various motorcycle models from the 1920s, World War II and modern times. Models of Mobra, Carpathians, Jawa, CZ, MZ, Ural, Danuvia, but also models of brands from the capitalist space such as Triumph, BSA, Simpson, BMW, Norton, Harley Davidson, Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, etc. This section is for Mobra motorcycles made in Romania. And this is the second floor! I am so impressed by this permanent exhibition of Alexandru Schelu, a motorcycle lover! Not only that it is open 24h, it also has a nice restaurant where you can hide from the heat and have a nice meal. Thank you sir for all you have given to the motorcycle community! It is truly a marvel for all of us bikers! From Rădăuți, our trip continues through the heart of Bucovina region heading to Ulma, riding along the border with Ukraine, then crossing the mountains to Lupcina and Argel. The traffic in this town is worse than Paris, what is going on? Maybe just the local market is on for Saint Mary. I can already feel that the mountains are near: the houses have changed to more traditional timber houses. The temperature has dropped from the 32’C to a more manageable 28’C The sun is blinding, I couldn’t see that my blinker has been on for a while. In Ulma the paved road ends. We will not see asphalt for a while from now on. This is the last segment of road heading to the border crossing. The border crossing is closed and we are not allowed to go any further. We have been told that last year. This is where our adventure along the border and across the Carpathian mountains begins. That is the border control building, just here on the right. This is Bucovina, Romania, Europe’s last wilderness! We will ride along the Suceava river which gives name to my home county, Suceava. Across the river is Ukraine. We will pass the border posts in a few moments. The legend of the Suceava River’s Curse says that when invaders came and burned the local villages, The women of Bucovina prayed for help. The river rose suddenly, sweeping away the enemy camp. Since then, elders say the Suceava carries both life and vengeance: it gives fertile valleys, but floods fiercely when angered! We decided to try a shortcut over the mountains to Lupcina. It will prove not to be a wise decision. But it is part of the journey to try new routes that come your way. Otherwise your mind wonders about it later. After a rough orientation towards the mountain we decide to turn right. It seems that we don’t really have a clue where to go next but sure, we will try and see what happens. But shortly, the trail disappears in someones front yard. We need to ask for directions! Bucovina has so many rituals. Winter rituals with masks (the goat, the bear, the horse dances) are still practiced in mountain villages. And yes, these mountains have wolfs and bears, don’t be fooled by the lovely day! Shepherding and traditional farming remain central to life here. Now, this is our second attempt to use a shortcut. Another decision that will be proven to be wrong! A few months back I crashed the same motorcycle right in this bend and we had to turn back. There was a lot of mud and I was on street tyres. Lesson learned the hard way. But will I make it this time? Today I came here to cross the mountain if there is still a road or a trail to do so. You can always count on a friend to remind you where you crashed. Just in case you forgot! Little did I know of what was just about to happen! This road is new. It looks ok as it is dry today. But the ruts indicate a whole different picture when is wet. A bit bumpy but nothing out of ordinary, just a steep climb. But it will become a lot steeper very soon! S***. I am stuck in a rut and the bike won’t pull anymore. The front brakes are not holding, I am sliding together with the bike. I am worried I will crash. Viorel rode this segment like a hero while I am stuck, for the second time, on the same road. I am really angry but determined to keep going despite melting at 32’C. Oh nooo!!! The clutch is gone. It smells like burned clutch. I cooked it! We tried for almost 40 minutes every way to ride the bike up the mountain but we had no hope with no clutch. Our only option now is to go back and use the known route over the mountain to Lupcina. So this was the route that we were initially supposed to take before going on the steep shortcut road. Fingers crossed, may the clutch hold until we are back on a main road! Let’s just do this! Come on Trany, you workhorse! Come on, pull! The bike landed on my right foot but I worry about the paint job! Clearly I have the wrong priorities here. But I am determined to get up an go! I have no idea why I have crashed. Please leave a comment if you do! Will it start? That’s the question now. It is a Honda, The Workhorse! Of course it will start! That clutch has let me down when I needed it the most! Now I wonder if I’ll get out of the forest. Ruts and mud everywhere! I should be standing but I am too nervous for that! Please God, get me out of here and back on my Harley! Now I am delighted with myself and the Workhorse! Thrilled! Watch Viorel riding the Kavasaki KLE 500 like a Pro! Now that we are out of the forest we will continue riding to the top of the Lupcina hill. And try not to get arrested by the border police, here in the white SUV. Ukraine is just down and right on this valley! The views from the top of Lupcina Hill were worth all the effort. With two countries next to each other! While I was flying my drone we have noticed another drone, the border police checking in on us. This was Lupcina, a small village hanging on the mountain top. We just crossed over the mountain at Izvoarele Sucevei (Suceava’s Springs)! Back on main roads, heading to another border control with Ukraine at Suceava’s Springs village. Just to realise that this border crossing has been built only for future use. There is not even a connecting road on the Ukraine side. So let’s get back to the Izvoarele Sucevei village and continue our adventure across the Carpathian Mountains. All the respect for this lorry driver. We both wonder how can he drive a truck full of logs across those roads? But before we continue the journey we will need a break for a drink and to catch our breath! We have been riding for the past five hours. And off-road, for the past three hours straight, with little break. We had a little chat with the local people who were very friendly! Again, we are crossing the mountains during another 2 hours ride over to Brodina de Jos. And from Brodina de Jos, the bear country, to Argel! Now lads, this a serious matter and I cannot be clear enough about it! If you visit Romania and you see a warning sign about bears, take it seriously! The bear, if you meet one, will eat you! You are the food, not what you give them! STAY CLEAR OF BEARS! Romanians do know that! In June, an Italian motorcyclists fed some bear for an Instagram photo and got killed. Eaten alive. In the winter do not track in forests and mountains. The wolfs will get you! And when you treck, watch your step for vipers! They are lethal! Romania is a wild country! Remember that! Waw! I have heard about this historic train but it is the first time when I see it. In all its bolts and nuts! This is The Mocănița of Moldovița, a narrow-gauge steam train that runs through the forests and hills of Bucovina. The end stop is now a touristic attraction with traditional food from this region. When it comes to food, you cannot find more authentic regional food than this. This is the real deal. “Bulz” is a local speciality, mămăligă (polenta) stuffed with cheese and served with cream. Of course, a few grilled vegetables, like sausages and smoked ribs. All produced here in the Argel village. Anytime you come to Romania you must have “sarmale” (stuffed cabbage rolls). Because you must! The Moldovița line was built in 1888, during the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It served mainly for logging, carrying wood from the thick forests down to sawmills. In winter, with snow-covered forests, the ride feels like stepping into a fairy tale. The name “Mocănița” comes from a Romanian word for small mountain shepherds (mocani). While I sip a home made beer I watch these kids enjoying the simple life. I am grateful to my Workhorse for giving me such a wonderful day in Bucovina. And the opportunity to go back in time and enjoy still being in a child’s mind, simply riding a bike with friends. in a most wonderful part of the World, Bucovina, a wild land of myths, rituals and legends. This is not the end. Bur rather the beginning of a new series, the Tour of Romania. Join me next time when I will bring you to other places that you probably never have heard of. Maybe even from beyond the borders of Europe! Thanks for watching! Please subscribe, like & leave a comment