So I've finally got my hands on some KOOLstop dual salmon and wondering if these are installed correctly.
The rear was easier than the front and I'm having some difficulty setting a tiny bit of toe in on the front as the rear of the pad is contacting the rim first.
Braking on these are superb to say the least but I want to make sure that I've installed them correctly as don't want to destroy them.
by xander-mcqueen1986
14 Comments
No, the posts need to be inserted more fully in their mounts. Ideally, all the way to minimize flex, vibration, and minimize the risk of pad ejection.
Id slide the pads a bit more outwards. You want them to bite a bit and clench on the rim for best results.
You don’t have to have them installed all the way inboard. In fact, I’d encourage you to have the post clamped about halfway in for better modulation. The clamp on the caliper should be over the ribs on the post of the shoe if that makes sense.
You can consult Sheldon Brown as always for some very good advice
[Sheldon cantilever adjustment](https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html)
I always put the QR lever on the left side. I don’t know if that is a rule or not, but it is for me.
Arms are a little low. Best to move the pads further into the brake so you can tighten the straddle cable so arms can come up a little, then readjust the pads.
Pro tip: if you turn the barrel adjust on the lever all the way out then set the pads in the proper contact spot, tight against the rim, then when you turn the barrel adjuster all the way back in you will have pretty close to proper clearance and lever pull.
Btw is your tire seated correctly? I can’t see the seam/thread that should be visible.
Asking purely because I recently spend almost a week trying to seat another schwalbe similar to yours. It looked like the one on your pictures. Mine was not perfectly round because of that.
Thanks for everyone’s help.
Sorted the brakes out and now they have a bit of toe in on the front and rear, can feel the difference as well.
So again thank you.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
Check out this parktool video to understand what to fix:
https://youtu.be/G_tDym0G6zo?si=ffuHBm7Hg2zUT3Wd
I see them at the top of the arm’s slot, I’d have them at the bottom & aimed *up*-ish.
I see the pads fully extended out rather than choked in, I’d have them choked in.
The front’s yoke is super high… “they” say that that’s good for getting the 90° cable angle at the arms- I think that’s fine for the rear, but I default to having the yoke barely clearing the tire on the front as I am doing endos all of the time.
Dude, replace your brake cable, it’s on it’s way out. Missing strands cause others to be stressed more with less support from toher strands.
When you redo the straddle cable, you should get it as close to the tire as you reasonably can (aka as short as possible). This gives you maximum mechanical advantage and will stop you from ever complaining that “cantilevers are bad”
pro tip for setting up canti: when they’re engaged (aka you’re squeezing the lever) you should see a right angle in the hanger cable. whatever it takes to get that, cable adjustment, pad adjustment, etc go ahead and do it. This will give you actual braking power. It’s true of pretty much every type I’ve worked on, give or take a few degrees