The rest of the bike is in beautiful condition. Can I use WD40 or something to get the rust off, or do I need to replace the chain/gears?
by vroomvroom_doom
The rest of the bike is in beautiful condition. Can I use WD40 or something to get the rust off, or do I need to replace the chain/gears?
by vroomvroom_doom
21 Comments
I fixed up an old Schwinn and the drivetrain was so bad that the chain was rusted to the freewheel. Take that all apart, degrease it all and then soak it in evaporust. I would consider a new chain though.
I would replace the chain, and remove the crank, take the rings off if possible and hit them with a wire brush
At the very least replace the chain and keep it lubed, even then it still probably won’t shift great. If you got the bike for free replacing the sprockets would only make it better.
Evapo-Rust, wire wheel, and media blasting are the ways I deal with surface rust.
As others have said, evaporust will be your friend here. Check the chain with a chain checker. If it’s out of spec, toss it. If not, throw it in the evaporust, too. While things are soaking, check the bottom bracket- it could very well be frozen in place if everything else is that rusty and may demand your attention for more than the other drivetrain parts. Be careful on that crank bolt. Rust can be tough, but you can do it! Bring her back to life!
Wd40 the whole chain, wipe the excess off then go for a ride. See how it performs then decide what to do next from there.
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Soak chain in vinegar, scrub with wire brush, clean, then lube. That’s the cheap way. Wire brush and cleaning spray on cogs
ride the shit out of it until the rust falls off
Rust-Oleum makes a rust dissolver. I put the cogs and chain in a gallon bag over night and scrub it with a wire brush. Looks new
I would scrub the chain rings and the rear cogs with some WD-40 and a wire brush.
I would put a brand new chain on it. If the chain doesn’t skip, you’re good. If the chain skips, you replace the rings or cogs that are skipping.
But I brought more than one bicycle back from this condition just by putting on a new chain cleaning the rust off the sprockets.
POR 15 Rust Remover
It really needs a new drivetrain: new cassette, chain, chainrings (probably whole new crankset and bottom bracket).
I got a rusted freebie, drenched in wd40, wiped thoroughly, repeated… it worked after that
other oils last longer than wd40 but it worked for cleaning (chain, cables, drenched shifters to fix them)
Had tor replace bottom bracket, it was frozen, but only cost $25.
For this, I’d recommend a wire wheel that goes into a cordless drill. That will get the vast majority of surface rust off the gear cluster. If you’ve got a repair stand, you’ll be able to clear a lot of the rust off the chain by running the wire wheel against the chain at the spot where the chain is wrapping around the rear gear. So if the rear cluster is a clock, aim for 10-12 with the wire wheel/drill in your left hand and rotate the cranks with your right. WD-40 will help clean out the rust you’ve dislodged. You’ll likely need a wire brush to get into all the spots.
Why bother if it takes so much time to clean instead of popping a new chain on instead you might ask? Because the drivetrain parts (chain, chainrings, rear cogs) all wear together and putting a new replacement of any of those three often means that the pieces no longer fit together.
Replace chain, rear gears, and all the cables. Then pull the cranks, hubs, and head set apart to clean and grease. Probably new tires as well if they are hard as a rock because they’re dry rotted. My guess it’s $120 in parts + any speciality tools you need.
I fixed few bikes like that and if you are not wrench handy you can just get away with putting CORRECT chain lubricant on it,riding it and wiping excess with rug. Reapply lubricant as necessary until entire drive train works .
Thing I love about old steel chainrings is that they are so massive that with proper chain lubrication they will last forever or until damaged. Of course they are heavy af and often noisy but who cares.
Frewheel out back is similar story. Remove rear wheel ,rotate freewheel on it and see where is the gap you can put same chain lubricant in. Once located lubricate it. Don’t over do it . Less is better and you can always put more later .
Good lord but I hate megarange.
Surface rust, not bad at all. Just put a new chain on, their inexpensive, and you’re good to go.
This is the right way ;Just oiling it is not the right way.
I’ve done this many times on donated free bikes . It’s not as bad as what some people hear Make it sound .
Use: MEGUIAR’S HOT RIMS CHROME WHEEL CLEANER. It’s a rust remover. It’s pretty much the spray version of evaprust, but quicker.
Red Spray bottle at Walmart…. it’s eight dollars .
1)Spray on metal parts and shade, helpful to use a brass or even steal a wire brush on the cassette nylon brush on the crank sprockets. Spray off with garden hose.
2) then let dry in the sun. Even peddling the white chain will allow it to dry quicker vs light rust flashing over it..
3) oil at the next day. A very light and quick mist of LPS or WD-40 with the free wheel, cassette and chain turning. Wipe off extra, let dry, then apply chain lube.
4)then ride it a little bit let the oil work in ,….and then check your chain with a chain stretch checker.
That chain would even be salvageable with this procedure if there were only a lightweight kid riding it afterwards . Even though he can probably get that chain working again for an adult it might be weak and break eventually always at the worst opportunity.
Wd40 will do wonders, then clean with rag, repeat, then think about some proper bike lube. Wd40 over whole frame will sparkle it up some too