Do you plan to also weld support between the stays?
whiskey_brick on
Hell yeah! What kind of welder did you use?
I really want to try this but I dont have a TIG, only a MIG.
Lucky-Bid9643 on
Nice one. I am curiously waiting for the comments with popcorn in my hand.
reed12321 on
I would have made the fork disc tab longer. Or you could have just purchased one of [these](https://www.ticycles.com/ticycletubes/brake-mount-x-long-finger-iso-disc-tab-steel). The owner of TiCycles posted them a few years ago in the framebuilders fb group explaining they’re designed to be added to forks that weren’t designed to have disc brakes. He claimed that it helped spread the forces out over the whole leg rather than just concentrated at the bottom. I’ve brazed them onto a few bikes without issue.
bacoes on
just because you can doesn’t mean you should
Conscious_Yak_7303 on
I am curious, is your rear brake pad making complete contact with the rotor. The is mount looks high.
TruckCAN-Bus on
I’d add a gusset ‘tween the stayz
CaffeineMartin on
So ugly just to stop a bike that doesnt need that much stopping power lol
cedarzzz on
ew
thechrunner on
Is the tubing thick enough to not buckle under braking pressure?
I got a 96 Corratec Team Bow with disc brakes, but they used a clamp to mount the caliper
urbanmeadows on
Rip
Feisty_Park1424 on
The fork is too light and small diameter for a disc tab – it’s ~12mm at the tip with ~0.9mm wall and needs to be 17mm and 1.2mm at a minimum to be durable. The grey colour of the welds means it got too hot. The porosity usually means it wasn’t clean enough. You can probably salvage the frame if you add a brace and sort out your caliper position but I wouldn’t ride the fork
Plague-Rat13 on
Artistry!!
MikeoPlus on
This one trick bike builders DON’t want YOU to know
15 Comments
Do you plan to also weld support between the stays?
Hell yeah! What kind of welder did you use?
I really want to try this but I dont have a TIG, only a MIG.
Nice one. I am curiously waiting for the comments with popcorn in my hand.
I would have made the fork disc tab longer. Or you could have just purchased one of [these](https://www.ticycles.com/ticycletubes/brake-mount-x-long-finger-iso-disc-tab-steel). The owner of TiCycles posted them a few years ago in the framebuilders fb group explaining they’re designed to be added to forks that weren’t designed to have disc brakes. He claimed that it helped spread the forces out over the whole leg rather than just concentrated at the bottom. I’ve brazed them onto a few bikes without issue.
just because you can doesn’t mean you should
I am curious, is your rear brake pad making complete contact with the rotor. The is mount looks high.
I’d add a gusset ‘tween the stayz
So ugly just to stop a bike that doesnt need that much stopping power lol
ew
Is the tubing thick enough to not buckle under braking pressure?
I got a 96 Corratec Team Bow with disc brakes, but they used a clamp to mount the caliper
Rip
The fork is too light and small diameter for a disc tab – it’s ~12mm at the tip with ~0.9mm wall and needs to be 17mm and 1.2mm at a minimum to be durable. The grey colour of the welds means it got too hot. The porosity usually means it wasn’t clean enough. You can probably salvage the frame if you add a brace and sort out your caliper position but I wouldn’t ride the fork
Artistry!!
This one trick bike builders DON’t want YOU to know
https://preview.redd.it/cj8d6gl2lhlf1.jpeg?width=566&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc911405c0ba9bbae205ac93391739030c06e08d