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  1. Alarmed_Let_7734 on

    I’m about the same size, 5’7″ with 32 inch inseam. I rode that size frame on my first mountain bike in 1989. Had it until 2014.

    I’ve since purchased bikes from that era and I now go smaller because it seems more fun and responsive in the twisty trials.

    It will be fine for what you want to use it for.

  2. Neither-Spread-1145 on

    I’m 5’5” and ride a 16.5. I think you really just gotta try. All bike brands in my experience can’t actually use a tape measure properly either. I have ridden a 20” before with some swept back bars and loved it.

  3. I think that’s gonna be too big for you. If it’s really calling you then no harm in test riding. You can try different bars, stems, saddle height. But in its current form that’s gonna be a reachy ride for a 5’8” person.

  4. GrandFalconer159 on

    It’s not considered the correct size for you but there’s ways to try to make it acceptable. Cost varies.

  5. AfraidOfTheSun on

    Not sure how much you’ve thought about this or not, but when you check it out take note of the head tube size, and then how your crotch clearance is standing over that bike; I think the head tube is a good way to judge size by pics because you can tell the size easily relative to the the bars/stem, if this one is too big you know you’re looking for a shorter head tube when you’re scanning marketplace (sorry if this is obvious)

  6. On paper yes it’s a shade too big but if you plan on modifying the handlebars and/or stem and riding it casually then it shouldn’t be a huge issue. If you want to use it aggressively as an actual mtb, I’d go smaller. Nice looking bike

  7. FWIW just fixed up a 90s fisher mtb and it’s a 20.5. I’m 5’9″ with a 30in inseam and it’s definitely a lot of bike under me but I can stand up over the top tube. Would I want to do a technical rocky descent on it? Probably not. I’ve ridden on some dirt trails though and it’s fine.

  8. 20.5 is less big than modern sizing because of flat top tube. But… you have to sit on the bike.

  9. Fabulous-Theme-837 on

    Did bike fitting for major company for years. Their complaint about me was that I was slow. That’s because I didn’t just try to get people close to their ideal fit, I actually took the time to try different adjustments and see how their bodies responded. I just didn’t know how to do it any other way.

    I would say at 5’8” this bike has a better chance of being ideal than if it were 18”. It’s way easier to make a larger frame smaller than to do the opposite. The only potential downside is going to be top tube clearance (test this, this can’t be changed) and maybe some slightly slower responsiveness/turning (I don’t know enough about this specific year’s geometry to know this for sure).

    If you have at least a few inches of saddle height to play with, your nuts don’t rest on the top tube when you stand over it, and it feels fun to ride, I’d say go for it. Reach and drop are suuuuuuper easy to adjust (you can even get a threadless quill stem adapter to make it even more simple). Also, you probably know this already, but always check the hubs. Nothing tells you more about the wear on a bike than how the hubs feel.

    Gl, hope it works out for you.

  10. Puravida14177 on

    I have a longish 36‘ inseam at 6’1” and am happy with my 23” 1990 Fuji Mt Fuji. Geometries shouldn’t be too far apart…
    I assume 20.5 could be too big for you – however, maybe not too long, hard to determine with these old frames – with some you are closer to your appropriate road bike size (20.5 would be good for you on a road bike, even smallish?).
    Get it and see if you can make it fit! They are nice and hard to find for sale (in my part of the world 🇩🇪 ). If it doesn’t work, resell (if you must…).

  11. GlitteringWealth7267 on

    I’d imagine the stand over works. Swept back bars probably in your future. Reach will feel nice and the casual trip to office/etc will be comfy

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