For truly parallel-to-the-ground, rear-facing, track ends, there are adapters [like these](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T994K1Q) that work just fine with 5 speed friction systems. However, the more off-angle that horizontal drop out is the more silly the derailleur position gets with this style adapter. Most will work with forward or rearward facing opening, but as I said the angle matters.
out_in_the_woods on
This is an old standard of dropouts that use what’s commonly called a “claw mount” derailleur. You can use an adapter like [this](https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=88608) with any derailleur that will be compatible with your freewheel and/or shifters.
Alternatively, you can just get a claw mount derailleur like [this](https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=88608). If you have friction shifters it’s easy but if you have indexed shifters you’ll want to check compatibility between shifters and the derailleur you get
Eather one will work it just depends on cost and availability really
I have an early 80s univega without a dropout. It came with a Suntour V-GT rear derailleur with a claw hammer mount. It works pretty well for me and can handle some big cogs, running 34T on mine.
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That looks like a single speed frame. Can you please post more photos
A claw style derailleur would be ideal
That bike, if it came with a 5-speed rear end, assuredly came with a [hanger plate](https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=88608) adapter or a derailleur with one integrated in (AKA “claw-style”).
For truly parallel-to-the-ground, rear-facing, track ends, there are adapters [like these](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T994K1Q) that work just fine with 5 speed friction systems. However, the more off-angle that horizontal drop out is the more silly the derailleur position gets with this style adapter. Most will work with forward or rearward facing opening, but as I said the angle matters.
This is an old standard of dropouts that use what’s commonly called a “claw mount” derailleur. You can use an adapter like [this](https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=88608) with any derailleur that will be compatible with your freewheel and/or shifters.
Alternatively, you can just get a claw mount derailleur like [this](https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=88608). If you have friction shifters it’s easy but if you have indexed shifters you’ll want to check compatibility between shifters and the derailleur you get
Eather one will work it just depends on cost and availability really
Some videos:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html#:~:text=Chainline%20may%20be%20adjusted%20at,replace%20the%20axle%20as%20needed.
above explains the chainline of a bicycle drive train. Your bottom bracket chainrings and cassette location need to line up to work properly.
[https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment](https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment)
park tools is were you want to go for videos explaining proper mechanical adjustment. Calvin knows.
edit, two more that may be helpful.
[https://www.bergfreunde.eu/chain-length-calculator/](https://www.bergfreunde.eu/chain-length-calculator/)
helps figure out how long your chain needs to be.
[https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/how-to-measure-bolt-circle-diameter-bcd](https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/pages/how-to-measure-bolt-circle-diameter-bcd)
in case you need to buy a new chainring
I have an early 80s univega without a dropout. It came with a Suntour V-GT rear derailleur with a claw hammer mount. It works pretty well for me and can handle some big cogs, running 34T on mine.