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  1. Wheel truing shouldn’t take a couple of hours. I would imagine the tension is all over the place and you’re not tightening where you should be. Is this your first wheel true?

  2. SaidUnderWhere789 on

    If it’s the initial true after you laced it, then de-tension all spokes and start over.

    But if not, don’t bother. Replace at least the rim, and likely the whole thing.

  3. I second the take your time. Make small adjustments and double check. The problem is in overtightening a spoke and pulling through the rim, then it’s game over. I would look for the real loose spokes and put a small tab of paper tape on them to get a general idea of where the rim could be tightened and where spokes could be loosened.

  4. broken-emotion1 on

    Looks like the dish and radial true are out as well.

    I’d recommend that you detention the entire wheel until two threads are visible above the nipples.

    Then download the art of wheel building by Gerd Schraner and follow his process.

    If you don’t have a dishing tool they are easy to make from scrap timber and a bolt.

    Best of luck

  5. MariachiArchery on

    Yikes dude. Something else must be going wrong here, because I could probably get this to within 1mm of runout in any direction in about 20 minutes. This shouldn’t take this long.

    How are your making adjustments? Are you just turning one spoke at a time? Also, are you sure you are actually turning the nipples/tightening loosening the spokes? Or, are you simply spinning the spoke? Like, are your nipples and spokes fused together?

    That fusion is common in corroded wheels. The spokes binds in the nipple, and you can’t turn it. Therefor, you are unable to adjust the tension. Could that be happening here?

    Do this for me, turn a nipple, and while you are turning it, hold the spoke with your fingers. Can you feel the spoke spin?

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