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I thought this was normal but I recently went bike packing with a friend and their bike didn’t have any issues getting up the climbs, but my bike was skipping like crazy with the extra weight and I couldn’t put it in a high gear at all. The quick link also snapped at one point when I tried to push through, and I had to accept from that point I couldn’t put the bike in high gears during climbs.
I took the bike to two separate shops, one larger chain and one independent hole in the wall – both adjusted the rear mech and said it’s good to go. But still the same issue.
I’ve tried to take as many pictures as possible, I am not even an amateur with this stuff I have no idea what I am doing. But it seems I can’t even pay someone to fix this issue. I just want to have a reliable bike so I don’t get caught out crossing the road or going up a hill.
Does anyone have advice I can use to investigate further? I am more than happy to troubleshoot myself.
by Rose_X_Eater
16 Comments
Sure looks like the chain is routed incorrectly in the derailleur.
Did they check if the hanger was straight? thats been the issue 9/10 times on my bikes when I had skipping issues especially if everything is new. Its always worth having a spare so might be worth grabbing one and swopping to see if it helps
As mentioned your chain doesn’t look correctly routed through the derailleur but also the front chainring looks very worn
How many mes approximately have you cycled on this bike? Do you know where the chain is skipping? (On the front or rear chain wheels) does it change gear smoothly?
I think [Appropriate_Mode3788](https://www.reddit.com/user/Appropriate_Mode3788/) ‘s answer from this post yesterday might also be your answer [Shimano deore xt derailleur grinding : r/bikewrench](https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/1mk8t3y/shimano_deore_xt_derailleur_grinding/)
Aside from the routing issue. You didn’t show it in the smallest cog. The chain may be too long, or become too long if routed correctly.
Also if the derailer trolley wheels are loose ore worn it will switch gears will riding.
I have found kmc chains do this on my bike , try a shimano chain ( original) try get an official one as there are lots of copies.
For example I run a sram drive , if I try to use kmc or a shimano chain I get issues .
I wonder if those shops took it for a test ride? When it’s odd issues like that, I typically take my customer’s bike for a ride on a hill to try and reproduce the issue. Not sure how else you could fix something like that since you can’t really put weight on the drivetrain when it’s on the stand.
So you took it to two separate shops who both charged you for derailleur adjustment and neither noticed the chain being routed incorrectly? That is embarassing for them ngl.
There’s a metal tab here your chain is routed under.
You chain needs to be on the other side of that tab. It should be routed over that.
https://preview.redd.it/yqp44phkithf1.png?width=906&format=png&auto=webp&s=7004bdd1a8a37c270bdcac9afab02b6832d91d89
How the hell can two bike shops miss that?
Is your frame warping when you place the extra torque on the cranks? Rare on this style Fram but I went through two fat bike frames due to that. Chain was skipping and breaking constantly.
Maybe , but from a compatibility perspective using an original shimano chain will mesh better than a third party product.
It’s also advisable to get a higher tier chain like xt, xtr as it will last longer . Provided it’s well maintained.
My bike came with a sram nx 12 speed chain , and only lasted 400 miles ( good maintenance) I changed it at 0.5 wear as I’m on an ebike .
After the second replacement, I upped my game and splashed out on an xx0 gold chain £70 !
I’m currently on 2000 miles with no chain wear on the park tool chain checker .
The chain is definitely routed incorrectly! That could explain the chain link snapping. What makes it sound weird is that you can’t use a high (I think you mean the easiest gear? We call that low gear xD) gear. Do you know why? Because that sounds like the chain could also be too small. It’s also a bit weird that it only happens once in a while…
https://preview.redd.it/ix8tz7osothf1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85c91aa6fa7147210c5eb8228ce153edbd583034
The comments about chain routing are correct. To add to that, your clutch is disengaged. This probably isn’t contributing a ton to your issue, but when you get this drivetrain dialed, the clutch will be the difference between B+ shifting and A+ shifting. It’ll also help save your chainstay from chain slap. As a general rule, if the real wheel is on the bike, make sure your clutch is engaged.