Soon but not yet.
You can see the 0.75 side kind of goes in but I’d assume 1.0 side won’t go in at all- this means the chain isn’t stretched that much yet…
OkGuide3784 on
replace. after you replace it, make sure to cut your new chain to the correct length and to give your drivetrain a good cleaning. lube your new chain too
the_knob_man on
What speed chain is this?
AgreeablePudding9925 on
No. It’s not even properly fitting the 0.75. It’s got life.
MacMasore on
Yes
alxkc on
Buy a new chain for sure because you’re at least close to needing one, even if you aren’t experiencing shifting issues yet. You can probably get by a bit longer but you risk wearing your cassette and chainring faster.
samquam on
If it’s a geared bike, yes. If it’s a singlespeed, probably also yes at this point.
That’s enough for most purposes. If you wanna get a bit lost in the weeds with me for a moment, keep reading.
One thing worth looking into if you wanna get more accurate chain checker measurements, you generally want to have the tool and the chain tensioned while you’re checking it.
Chain is easy enough, just check on the top side while you push a lil’ on the pedal.
Tool is a bit harder to describe through text, basically you wanna gently push it forward (front of the tool is the .75/1 side, you generally hold the back).
Also, check multiple spots. I will also check starting from the narrow spots (inner plates) and also the wide spots (outer plates). The inner plates are gonna be the more representative of how much wear there is (in the picture, you started from an outer plate)
ischeriad on
Just got a new chain checker earlier today, they come with instructions.
1.0 is for steel ~~chains~~ chain rings / cogs, 0.75 for aluminium.
Try pushing the checker into the chain. If you can push it all the way down, replace the chain.
ChilliBreath86 on
If you’re past the point of being able to swap a chain without also swapping cassette and chainrings, I’d just continue riding this chain until it starts skipping or shifting sloppily. Get the most life out of your gear.
Horror_Finish7951 on
If you have to ask – probably. It’s €20.
No-Custard7415 on
That depends. How “shark-toothed” is the chainring and cassette? How often do you ride it? Do you depend on it for commuting?
If the drive train is already sharktoothed, keep riding.
If you’re going to put hundreds of miles down this month or rely on it for transportation, change it.
If it’s ridden hard and sharktoothed, start looking for a complete drive train (chain, cassette, chainring). A worn cassette and/or chainring will stretch a chain quite rapidly and you’ll just be throwing money away on chains.
**edit**
Cleaning the chain is far more important than lubing. If you aren’t already, find a way to work cleaning and lubing into your routine and drivetrains will last far longer.
seb4096 on
Interesting comments about 8/9/10/11/12 specific chain checker tool.. I did not know about this and assumed they were all the same more or less 😳
What chain checker do you folks recommend for a 12 speed chain?
12 Comments
Soon but not yet.
You can see the 0.75 side kind of goes in but I’d assume 1.0 side won’t go in at all- this means the chain isn’t stretched that much yet…
replace. after you replace it, make sure to cut your new chain to the correct length and to give your drivetrain a good cleaning. lube your new chain too
What speed chain is this?
No. It’s not even properly fitting the 0.75. It’s got life.
Yes
Buy a new chain for sure because you’re at least close to needing one, even if you aren’t experiencing shifting issues yet. You can probably get by a bit longer but you risk wearing your cassette and chainring faster.
If it’s a geared bike, yes. If it’s a singlespeed, probably also yes at this point.
That’s enough for most purposes. If you wanna get a bit lost in the weeds with me for a moment, keep reading.
One thing worth looking into if you wanna get more accurate chain checker measurements, you generally want to have the tool and the chain tensioned while you’re checking it.
Chain is easy enough, just check on the top side while you push a lil’ on the pedal.
Tool is a bit harder to describe through text, basically you wanna gently push it forward (front of the tool is the .75/1 side, you generally hold the back).
Also, check multiple spots. I will also check starting from the narrow spots (inner plates) and also the wide spots (outer plates). The inner plates are gonna be the more representative of how much wear there is (in the picture, you started from an outer plate)
Just got a new chain checker earlier today, they come with instructions.
1.0 is for steel ~~chains~~ chain rings / cogs, 0.75 for aluminium.
Try pushing the checker into the chain. If you can push it all the way down, replace the chain.
If you’re past the point of being able to swap a chain without also swapping cassette and chainrings, I’d just continue riding this chain until it starts skipping or shifting sloppily. Get the most life out of your gear.
If you have to ask – probably. It’s €20.
That depends. How “shark-toothed” is the chainring and cassette? How often do you ride it? Do you depend on it for commuting?
If the drive train is already sharktoothed, keep riding.
If you’re going to put hundreds of miles down this month or rely on it for transportation, change it.
If it’s ridden hard and sharktoothed, start looking for a complete drive train (chain, cassette, chainring). A worn cassette and/or chainring will stretch a chain quite rapidly and you’ll just be throwing money away on chains.
**edit**
Cleaning the chain is far more important than lubing. If you aren’t already, find a way to work cleaning and lubing into your routine and drivetrains will last far longer.
Interesting comments about 8/9/10/11/12 specific chain checker tool.. I did not know about this and assumed they were all the same more or less 😳
What chain checker do you folks recommend for a 12 speed chain?