Toulon France: More than Just a Port

Toulon is a major French naval port that has thrived on efforts of the Roman imperials, the French Crown, the French revolutionaries, more French built on France’s desire to grow itself into a world power and continuing to stand proudly through every government, republic, monarchy, emire and more republics that have come it’s way since the days when the frst Roman conquerers took one look, thought this was a great harbor, but not much more, and moved on.

There is a lot to see here, and I got a native’s eye view, guided by an acquaintance who had lived here most of her life. Runaway with me as we explore Toulon.

hello and welcome or welcome back to my channel i’m Judy and I’m passionate about travel history places and people and how they affect one another today we’re stopping in Tulon France you might not think there’s much to see in a big naval port especially compared to nicer places like Nice or Monaco or even Marseilles all of which are just down the coast but there almost always is something to see and do anywhere where people live i had the advantage of being introduced to the city by a charming acquaintance who had lived there most of her adult life but apparently like many a native New Yorker had never done the local equivalent of going to the top of the Empire State Building when I wrote to her and asked if I could stop by staying at a hotel of course while I was in the south of France she offered to be my hostess and guide she did a great deal more than that she went to the local tourist bureau and picked up every brochure she could lay her hands on she had maps a daily plan an itinerary plans for where to eat what to see and what to do she even moved into the hotel i think that was a little extravagant but I believe she knew the owners to keep a watchful eye on me on behalf of the family we had a wonderful time there was a great deal of fractured conversation a lot of local rosé wine and we were blessed by the warmth of the provinol sun too early in the season to cook us so run away from home with me and see the town as I did with me the armchair traveler as your guide tulon exists because of both good and unhelpful geography there are two really important features an enormous sheltered natural harbor backed up by a very tall hill with views in every direction those two bits of geography explain why people likely settled here initially and still covered the area what’s missing a river or any obvious way for adventurers conquerors or traders to move about freely between the coast and the hinterland that meant that despite the geographic isolation from the interior it could still serve as a safe harbor and a landing spot for anyone who happened to come this way and a lot of people did the hill also served as an ideal defensive outpost you can see for miles mount Faren is the name of that hill it overlooks the city and it’s made out of limestone it’s believed that the word phen probably comes from a Latin word pharaoh that means lighthouse that connection likely dates back to the Roman era when Tulon was an important port while the exact date of the hills getting its name isn’t documented it’s thought to have been named for its significance in navigation and maritime activities going back for as long as we have written records and possibly even before then bla or the warmth is an accepted and expected part of life here in Provence especially along the shore anyone living or visiting here adapts or roasts when I visited I was blessed with air conditioning but that’s a fairly recent development before that people managed by living in buildings with thick walls high ceilings and very small windows to minimize heat gain they used awnings overhangs and shutters designed to minimize exposure to the sun during the heat of the day the provinile lifestyle means adapting to the hot Mediterranean climate with a slower pace of life including the practice of taking siestas during the hottest part of the day enjoying outdoor living spaces for meals and socializing when you can and emphasizing fresh seasonal cuisine rich in fruits vegetables and olive oil and nature oriented approaches to life like hiking and walking and swimming these perfectly suit the region’s warm climate today many but not all of the residents have added both double pane glass windows and air conditioning to this mix making this a far more pleasant place to live year round the shutters shown here however live on this is the Grand Hotel de Laair one of the few that still go by that name out of many that sprang up as railway lines were built throughout France hotels located next to train stations have evolved significantly over the years even during my lifetime and they reflect changes in transportation architecture and hospitality needs they play a vital role in accommodating travelers and making it easy to get to and from the railway stations when I first visited France back in 1970 much of the country was still emerging from a postw World War II funk and these hotels were where college students stayed when you didn’t have much money and you weren’t particularly choosy about what was included in my experience they were clean safe and had a sink in a room and generally included a breakfast there wasn’t any air conditioning here in early 1970s France and the toilet and shower were down the hall so I learned how to take a cat bath out of a sink today this is what’s called a three-star hotel a three-star hotel in France is considered comfortable reliable and well equipped but not especially fancy if it’s more than just two stories it will have a working elevator an important consideration nowadays for those of us with weak backs or aging knees it may or may not have air conditioning that’s a requirement at the four or five star level but in my experience in hot climates especially here in the south of France they generally do i was told by my lovely hostess here in the city that the hotel has been in the same family for 40 years it’s been spiffed up quite a bit since I stayed as you can see from this photograph of the lobby but the same family still runs it it was comfortable and you really couldn’t beat the location i’m something of a fan of little trains which can be found in many French cities especially during the high tourist season they’re a handy way to get the lay of the land especially if you don’t feel like walking or it’s pouring down rain when you first arrive and come dressed up in disguise usually with a tractor play acting as a locomotive this one does a circuit near the port area and came complete as they usually do with a pre-recorded narration in several languages i remember trying to listen to it in both English and French and to be honest I couldn’t understand a word in either language they really probably need to improve their sound system or as an alternative I should have brought my own headphone it was a fun way to introduce myself to the city fort St lewis or San Louie shown here from both land and harbor sides was part of the fortifications of the city built in the 1660s by King Louis I 14th and designed by a renowned military engineer named Vaan remember his name because we’ll come across him again the primary purpose of the fort was to protect the naval base here at Tulon which was one of France’s most important naval ports and still is its strategic location and robust design were essential for safeguarding the harbor against potential attacks the fort was built out of thick stone walls with towers to provide a strong defensive position its elevated position allows for a commanding view of the harbor and enables it to control access to the port fairly effectively the design not only served military purposes but showcased the engineering skills of Voban and the power and strength of Louis the 14th throughout its history the fort has played a crucial role in defending Tulon’s naval base it’s been involved in various military conflicts including both World Wars today the fort is recognized as a historical monument and serves as a symbol of Tulon’s rich naval heritage it’s open to visitors and offers guided tours along with stunning views of the harbor preservation efforts are ongoing to maintain the fort and educate the public about its significance this map shows how it along with the towers across the opening to the harbor would have commanded the area farren is a striking limestone outcrop that towers over the surrounding countryside it’s close to 2,000 ft in elevation and contains a memorial and a museum as well as jaw-dropping views of the city the harbor and the coastline a geographic feature like this one will always have military value and this Google Earth view gives you some idea of its position and layout it presents a cliff face toward the harbor and on the north face as well there is a road crossing the east shoulder but getting to the top would be quite an operation particularly if dug in defenders were shooting at you such was the case in August 1944 after the Allied landings and the French always referred to these as landings never invasions in Normandy the landing forces were in desperate need of working harbor capacity during the war many of the northern French ports had been badly damaged they would be repaired eventually but eventually was sometime in the future they also needed a port in the south tulong was selected to fill that role and the free French drew the task of retaking the city the Germans may have initially believed they could defend Tulon effectively and indefinitely but the overwhelming strength and coordination of the Allied forces combined with the deteriorating conditions on the ground ultimately led them to the realization that victory was not going to be achievable the German in charge and his forces did manage to delay the allies for nearly two weeks during which time the German forces were able to retreat in an orderly fashion northward along the Ron River after intense fighting the French forces captured Mount Pharaoh on August 24th 1944 this victory was very important as it allowed them to secure the city and the harbor by August 29th Tulon was fully liberated marking a significant emotional and morale achievement for the free French forces and contributing to the overall Allied efforts in the liberation of France within just a couple of weeks the harbor was repaired cleared and fully operational the only practical way for camera toing tourists like me to get to the top of that hill is to ride the cable car it’s actually a lot of fun even though I admit I’m not too crazy about heights i spent the 7 minute or so ride uphill with one arm wrapped tightly around an upright stansion and both hands holding my camera it was worth the effort the cable car has an upgraded waiting and ticket area and is handicapped accessible as is the area in and around the debarcation memorial the French nuclear aircraft carrier Charl was in port the day I visited the landing memorial located on Mount Feron commemorates all of the Allied landings in Provence during World War II this was called Operation Draon and it was a significant event in the liberation of all of France from Nazi occupation inside you’ll find plaques dedicated to three leaders sha de Gaulle on the left Franklin Roosevelt in the center and Winston Churchill nearby are a couple of German tanks a great view and if you look carefully some badly rusted barb wire left over from the German defense of the area the Fort De Laqua in Tulon was built between 1845 and 1851 it was built as part of the modernization of the city’s defenses following advancements in artillery and military technology the fort sits on the slopes of Mount Faren and it faces in both directions its position allows it to oversee and protect the northern approach to Tulon and the surrounding areas as well as the harbor making it a very effective defensive structure the vantage point was essential for monitoring any potential threats and for coordinating defensive actions when necess the fort’s design and placement reflects the military strategies of the time which emphasized the importance of high ground in fortification planning it features a very robust 19th century style of architecture with thick stone walls and a layout that allowed for effective defense against all kinds of attacks as the allies were preparing for the liberation of southern France the fort was used by German forces to monitor the movements of Allied troops in the region its elevated position on this hill provided a strategic advantage for surveillance however it also made it an easy target for Allied air strikes in August 1944 the fort was subjected to heavy bombardment despite its thick wall construction the air strikes caused damage after the landings and the subsequent liberation of the city the fort like many other military installations was left in a state of disrepair however it remains here as a historical site that reflects the military history of Tulon and the effect of World War II on the region louis the 14th chose to fortify Tulon in the late 17th century as part of his plan to strengthen France’s naval defenses against rival powers particularly Spain and England the port was crucial for maintaining French naval power and securing maritime trade routes louie saw himself properly I think as surrounded by potential enemies and saw the port as important for maintaining his own power and that of the country he commissioned Sebastian Voban to build the fortifications here voban’s remitt here was to enhance the city defenses recognizing its strategic importance as a naval base he designed and set up extensive fortifications that included bastion walls and other defensive structures the design was aimed to create a stronghold capable of withstanding sieges and naval attacks and for quite a while it did the fortifications became essential during the war of the Spanish succession to deter attacks and protect French interests in the Mediterranean by the time of the French Revolution however things had changed tulon had become a stronghold for royalist forces opposing the revolutionary government and in 1793 they were supported by British naval forces napoleon Bonapart then a young artillery officer played a key role in the siege of Tulon leading the French Revolutionary forces to successfully recapture this city the victory marked a triumph for the government but it also marked a triumph for Napoleon himself and set the stage for his rise in the military a few years later he was named as a general i spotted this plaque inside the gate the text refers to Napoleon’s departure to take command of the army of Italy in 1796 napoleon’s army there achieved significant accomplishments including decisive victories against austrians and the acquisition of substantial territory these successes boosted French morale and solidified Napoleon’s reputation as a national hero the triumphs of the army of Italy played a crucial role in Napoleon’s rise to political power setting the stage for his eventual accession as first council and later emperor of the French the Tulon opera house was one of a wave of lyric opera houses built in France and in Europe in the middle of the 19th century it is still one of the largest opera houses in France but this is not the original building construction initially began in March of 1860 and came complete with a painted dome it was unfortunately destroyed by fire in January of 1944 during World War II the fire occurred as the result of bombing raids on the city of Tulon the bombers aimed to target military installations and infrastructure but unfortunately the opera house was caught in the destruction the fire caused extensive damage ultimately leading to the complete loss of the building following the war efforts were made to rebuild the opera house but they strung on for nearly 20 years the new opera house which we see today opened in 1968 the original opera house had a dome and a painting which of course went up in flames but today’s opera house has a dome painting designed by a man named Louis Duvo who also created the ceiling of the grand salon in the imperial apartments of the Napoleon wing of the louver the opera house seats 1,200 guests and I can vouch for the quality of acoustics i had a lovely evening there the street markets here in Tulong particularly those near the opera house are actually a lot of fun to visit in good weather you get to see and meet all kinds of people these markets typically offer a wide variety of goods including fresh produce local cheese meat seafood flowers bread they also offer handiccrafts for anyone who’s looking for a souvenir the atmosphere is fairly lively and the vendors are willing to talk to customers so it’s pretty friendly the market is a kind of a social hub for locals where people gather not just to shop but to socialize and to enjoy the ambiance in addition to the street markets there is also a big indoor municipal market it is housed in a distinctive concrete building that I wasn’t too crazy about the building opened up in 1970 and was designed to replace an older market that had been located in the same general area but was falling apart and to provide modern space and amenities for both the vendors and the shoppers this interior shot gives you some idea of how pretty it actually is the new market was part of an effort to revitalize this part of the city and to improve the shopping experience for everyone i’ve seen much worse modernist architecture in my time and in obnoxious weather or when it’s really hot would be a huge help for most shoppers tulong Cathedral is a national monument construction began here in the 11th century and finished in the 18th century however the first church on the site probably dates back to the fifth century although there’s no trace of it today if the patterns we’ve seen in every other Roman imperial era settlement hold true this is on or near the site of the ancient Imperial Roman era forum the cathedral is a prominent landmark in the city although the area around it has been so heavily developed it is impossible to get a great photo of it the building is a showcase and mix of architectural styles which shouldn’t be surprising considering that construction ran on for some seven centuries the present building was begun in 1096 by Jair the count of Proce according to to tradition in gratitude for his safe return from the Crusades the nave shown here sports rounded arches and thick walls that are typical of the Romanesque style this is the Federation Fountain located in a very pretty square called Plast Deai Liberte this beautiful and extremely photogenic fountain and square not only serves as a lovely spot to relax but also reflects the complex thoughts and feelings of the local citizenry during the tumultuous times of the French Revolution this particular fountain stands out as a symbol of how perspectives can shift over time when the French Revolution began in 1789 many and proceeded the counterrevolutionary government they held on to their conservative values and expressed skepticism about some of the radical changes that were being proposed by 1790 the idea of a federation of the French people was being celebrated nationwide even if it wasn’t fully embraced at the local level some local leaders and citizens doubtless joined in the celebrations which likely included the construction of this fountain however whether their participation stemmed from genuine enthusiasm or mere acceptance of reality is up for debate fast forward to 1793 and Provence had become a hotbed for counterrevolutionary activity particularly here in Tulong the city with its strong naval presence was crucial for controlling the Mediterranean and both sides coveted it it was occupied by royalist supporters who proclaimed their ongoing futy to the king not the revolution and went looking for help from Great Britain and anyone else they could get to listen to them by August of that year the British governments dispatched a fleet to support the royalists commanded by Admiral Lord Hood the British fleet arrived in Tulon and provided naval support against the advancing French Revolutionary Army the army arrived in September and the siege was on the British fleet was in the harbor offering vital support to Royalist defenders throughout the siege the British provided bombardment and logistical assistance allowing the royalists to hold out for several months a young artillery officer was in that army his name was Napoleon Bonapart we met him earlier he played a pivotal role during this time he was the man who hatched the scheme to capture the heights surrounding the city which we visited earlier by seizing those positions the French could effectively bombard the city and the harbor and disrupt the loyalist defenses in December of 1793 Napoleon’s artillery units executed a well-coordinated bombardment of the city using his tactical expertise to weaken the defenses and ultimately forced their surrender today this fountain retains its original name honoring the revolution in a square honoring some not quite perfectly defined Lady Liberty you have to wonder which liberty the names had in mind this memorial didn’t appear on my tourist map and needed quite a bit of digging for me to even understand what you see here is a large memorial that looks like a blend of neocclassical and art deco styles it comes complete with a massive female figure several smaller figures and separate dedications that have apparently been added over time at the top we see a woman draped in a large veil extending her arms possibly mourning or protecting her children she seems to hold a shield and I’ve read she may symbolize France below her is a row of soldiers and at least one sailor under their feet the memorial inscription reads “To the Tulanese who died for their country,” along with the dates for World War I which was initially thought to be the war to end all wars the memorial was dedicated sometime in 1925 after World War II the monument was dedicated to include commemoration of those who died in that conflict more plaques have been added over time to add others lost in later military engagements such as the Algerian War and the war in Indo-China some of those additions particularly the ones related to the Algerian War have sparked quite a bit of debate due to complex memories associated with those events i was left wondering by those additions and the extra space did the designers and sculptor back in 1925 leave room because they wanted a pretty empty space or did they know or at least suspected that the 1918 armistice would not be the war to end all wars perhaps they knew something we didn’t we can’t leave too long without sampling some of the local delicacies for a snack you can try a proven style style pizza which includes onions anchovies and plenty of olives on a thick crust for lunch as a main course you can’t go away without trying out the buoy bit which is generally served with thick slices of bread and a garlic sauce that features a lot of garlic marseilles claims to have invented this tasty fish stew but it’s actually a regional dish that makes use of whatever the fishermen could bring home either things that they couldn’t sell or didn’t sell all that garlic whether from the tart or the fish stew demands to be covered up with a local dessert called the tart topzenne this is basically a brios bread split and filled with pastry cream and topped with sugar and sometimes fresh fruit like sliced strawberries or raspberries in season and with that and some rosé wine it’s time for us to bid farewell not just to Tulon but to the south of France i hope you’ve enjoyed our visit here but it’s time for us to move on our next stop will be the Lir Valley so come back and run away with me the armchair traveler as your guide [Music]