I Ordered the Strangest Dish in Germany 🇩🇪 | Upper Rhine Bikepacking Adventure

🚴‍♂️ EPISODE: The Upper Rhine Valley | 4 Days of Borders, Castles & Summer Heat

We’re cycling from Geneva to Amsterdam, following rivers, flavors, and stories across Europe.
After racing through Switzerland and slowing down in the vineyards of Alsace, we’re now back on the Rhine — entering the Upper Rhine Valley.

In this 4-day stretch, we cross borders by ferry, brave a heatwave, ride alone and together, and pass through fairytale towns and castle-covered hills.
We go from Strasbourg to Koblenz, where the Rhine begins to feel more mythical — narrower, steeper, more magical with every kilometer.

We explore Speyer and the Gedächtniskirche, navigate 40°C heat, discover stuffed pork belly and bratwurst, take forest detours, drink cold beer, eat schnitzel, and end with cheesecake by the river.

This episode is about transitions — between countries, between heat and relief, between solo strength and shared joy.

⛺ Route Highlights (Days 12–15):
🇫🇷 Strasbourg → 🇩🇪 Koblenz → 🚆 Trier
✔️ Double ferry day
✔️ Speyer, Mannheim, Mainz
✔️ Castles in the Middle Rhine Gorge
✔️ Fried fish, schnitzel, and schnapps
✔️ 40°C solo ride + forest escape
✔️ Final train to Trier

🎬 Next episode: The Mosel Valley begins!
Get ready for winding roads, white wine, and a slow culinary ride through Germany’s most romantic wine route.

Thank you for watching!
If you’re enjoying the journey, please like, comment, and subscribe to follow the rest of our ride from Geneva to Amsterdam. Your support means the world 🌍❤️

🎵 Music in this video
All music is licensed through Epidemic Sound.
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📱 Follow My Journey
Instagram: @elvarorn76
Komoot: Elvar on Komoot
Strava: Elvar on Strava

🚴‍♂️ My Bike & Setup
Bike: Trek Checkpoint SL6
– Upgraded with Shimano Ultegra Di2
Tyres: Specialized Pathfinder

🎒 Bikepacking Bags
Tailfin AeroPack – 20L
Tailfin Mini Panniers – 2 × 5L
Bontrager Adventure Frame Bag – 5L
Apidura Expedition Handlebar Bag – 14L
Ortlieb Ultimate 6 Handlebar Bag – 6L
Apidura Expedition Top Tube Bag – 1.2L

🔋 Navigation, Photo & Tech
GoPro Hero 11
Samsung Galaxy S23
QuadLock Phone Mount with Wireless Charger

🏕️ Camping Gear
Tent: Big Agnes Copper Spur UL1
Sleeping Mat: Exped Ultra 3R LW
Sleeping Bag: Mountain Equipment Olympus 300 (Long)
Chair: Helinox Zero Chair

🗺️ Route Planning
Komoot (with offline maps + day-by-day plan)

We started in Geneva, rushed through the mountains of Switzerland, and slowed down in the vineyards of Alsace. Now we’re back on the Rine, entering the upper Rine Valley, wider river, border towns, fairies, and long sunlit days. We left Strasburg with a baguette in the bag and the Rine on our left. From here, we would follow Eurovllo 15 downstream through the upper Rine Valley all the way to Copeland. Like most mornings, happiness arrived early in the form of fresh pastries and strong coffee from a small French bakery. Then came one of those quiet little travel moments that still feels magical. We rolled onto a tiny ferry on the French side of the river. And just like that, we were in German. Another country, another language. For us coming from Iceland, this still feels surreal, but we’re getting used to it. [Music] We found a cozy little pizza place on the German side. Lunch. The next campsite turned out to be back in France. So, naturally, we took another ferry, crossing the river twice in one day. It made the journey more playful, more alive, like the river was dancing with us. Still, we managed 81 km that day, sundrenched, dusty, and proud. Before heading to camp, we made one last important stop. The supermarket, and as always, we bought too much. A bottle of chateau den from Bordeaux. Fresh bread, dried meats, soft cheeses, simple things, but after a long day on the bike, they feel like luxury. This was just the beginning of our ride through the upper rind. And already we were floating between countries, flavors, and quiet joy. The morning started, as so many had before, with pastries and coffee. But this would be our last French bakery, and somehow we felt it. It was in a tiny village, just a whisper from the German border. And truth be told, it already felt a little German. [Music] Soon after we crossed into Germany again, this time for good. And right away the vineyards shifted. Rows and rows of grapes along steep hills hugging the curves of the ride. It felt like we had entered a painting and we were riding through the brush strokes. [Music] We stopped for lunch in one of the quiet villages. My wife safely chose the pasta, but I, curious chef that I am, went for something I’d never seen before. A slice of gaffila, Germanstyle stuffed pork belly. savory, heavy, honest food rooted in tradition. In the Palatinate and Ryan regions, dishes like these are often part of harvest festivals and village celebrations. We continued on, passing more vineyards and more of those quiet wayside crucifixes, symbols of faith and endurance standing watch over the land. Smoke curled above the trees and the local fire department was hard at work putting out forest fires, a quiet reminder of how hot and dry this summer had become. That evening, we arrived at a small, cozy campsite. Germany was in the middle of a heat wave. Temperatures climbing toward 40°. So, we started early, the only way to ride together before the heat took over. [Music] The morning was quiet and golden as we passed the GDC Kirk inpay, a towering piece of history. We stopped, admired, let the moment slow us down. After bagels for breakfast, we reached Manheim. That’s where our path split just for the day. My wife took the train to mines. The heat was just too much and she made the smart call. I stayed on the bike. I needed the training with a 200 km gravel event waiting for me in Iceland. So, I pushed on alone. The heat was heavy, pressing down like a wet blanket. So I left the river searching for shade and found it in the woods, cool, green, and quiet. It made the solo ride feel meditative, like the forest was carrying me. [Music] We reunited in mines and rolled together to one of the best campsites of the trip. Right on the river, calm and wide. 161 km done. I was hot, hungry, happy. And then came the reward. German beer, schnitle, and cheesecake for dessert. All with a view over the rine and the soft evening light settling in. Some days are made of effort and some are made of arrival. The Ryan Valley began to change. It narrowed. The hills grew steeper. And suddenly it felt like we had entered a fairy tale. We followed the river downstream deeper into the middle rine gorge. A UNESCO World Heritage site and for good reason. The towns were more beautiful. Stone houses with painted shutters. Vinecoed walls. Each bend in the river revealed another scene from a story book. [Music] Castles began to appear, not one or two, but dozens. High on the hills, hidden in the trees. even on islands in the middle of the ride. [Music] We stopped for pizza, sitting in the shade, watching boats drift by. Then we continued to cobble, where the Mosul meets the Rine. It felt like a natural pause. A closing chapter. [Music] From there, we took a train to Tri, the oldest city in Germany. Checked into a hotel. It was finally easy. Tomorrow, a new river awaits. The Mosul Valley. Winding roads, white wines, and another kind of magic. But that’s a story for the next