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  1. I have this and use it all the time, the bottom twists to make them even. It’s a great affordable trying stand.

  2. FlexTapeUltra on

    It’s easier to add material to extend the right-side probe shown in the first picture. Some scrap metal, a soda can, a toothpick; whatever you want to make the right and left probes symmetrical.

  3. youyouyouyouyouandme on

    Could you jbweld a nut on each side and then use bolts to Center it? I know its redneck engineering but may solve your issue

  4. It looks like a knockoff Park TS2. At the base of the uprights the 2 collars might have screws in them. If so, loosen them and adjust until centered between the feelers. Tighten them.

  5. Could try filing off some material where the screw contacts the arm if it really bugs you.

    If you’re just looking for side-to-side equality then the two Allen bolts where the arm assembly attaches to the … longer arm… look like they’re in slotted holes; loosen those off, move the whole assembly to the left, and bobs your uncle.

    Last but not least, use it as-is. All the truing I’ve ever done was on a stand with worse offset than this – I find it’s easier to do all my adjustments from one side and then flip the wheel to true in the other direction. With a bit of practise you can even see the gap increasing or hear the sound difference when you should pull from the other side. I’ve seen guys swing the other side arm out of the way and jam a screwdriver to hold it back, to check true or dish. Kinda up to you though.

  6. It doesn’t actually matter if those arms are centered or not and most bike shops either only pay attention to one side at a time or just remove one of the arms entirely.

    Even if they were centered on that piece of metal I still wouldn’t trust them to be on every wheel.

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