Coming from mtb and all sorts of motorcycles, I was looking for a bike that I could use every day before work and to ride into the wilderness without the weight of a mtb or worrying about motor vehicles restrictions. So here I am with my first ever gravel bike. I’m still recovering from an ankle injury (three ligaments torn) but I could ride it around the corner to double check everything is in its place. All good, except I really don’t know where to put my hands: drops let me use the brakes properly but no agility for turns, top is very comfortable but can’t brake or switch gears, and the ¿pointy end? I can touch the brakes but can’t use their full power. Any tips? Feeling super stupid atm changing hand position every few meters because I am afraid I can’t brake on time if something happens. Thank you!
by lakonur
7 Comments
Most people ride about 80% in the hoods position, what you call pointy end. Enough brake power for most things. The drops are good for sprinting, descending or hard climbing. The tops are less aerodynamic but comfortable for variety
Your handlebars have to be tilted upwards. The top part should be level. You should be able to break and shift from both positions.
This is such an endearing post. Welcome to aero bars! Your best friend will be practice, and with all your experience on two wheels you’ll be fine. My 2¢ as an amateur:
* Pointy ends are the hoods. This is probably where your hands will be most of the time. By rotating your wrist forward a bit you can get pretty decent braking power.
* In the drops is where you have most control of the bike imo, I go there when it’s windy or if it gets technical.
* Tops are for cruising. Brakes are far away but mostly not needed.
If you are still uncomfortable using the handlebar after many rides, you might want to consider a bike fit. In my experience, most of the fit is spent on positioning the handlebar and hoods so everything is within the correct reach.
Hoods will be where you spend most of your time. Drops are for sketchy bits (bumpy, sandy, etc) and also descending. Tops are for climbing and for when you need to put your hands somewhere else for a minute. You should be able to adjust how far out your brake levers are in case you have trouble reaching them when you’re in the drops. With all that being said, it’s not uncommon to be switching up your position throughout the ride, as having 3 hand positions is more comfortable for longer rides.
try rotating the bars up so the drops are in line roughly with top tube, adjust from there. Then tweak the hoods until you feel really comfy and arms slightly bent and athletic when on the saddle and on the hoods. You should be able to clamp the brakes easily from hoods with a few fingers (2 for light braking, 3 for power brake). Possibly also adjust tilt of saddle back a bit so you are even more comfy (aka not too much weigh on hands). To me, this is all a sign that you just aren’t too “comfy” on the hoods. Looking at the set up visually, it kinda tracks. Riding hoods will be vast majority. Drops should feel aggressive. Top should feel chill.
Looks like the levers aren’t angled quite right, tip them back a bit
Looking at the lack of welds, as far as Canyon are concerned, Aluminium is back big time. Great looking bike but sort those bars out!