АЛБАНИЯ без прикрас: рай за копейки или туристическая ловушка?

Албания: правда о стране, куда «никто не мечтает вернуться» 🇦🇱
Тревел-блогеры называют Тирану серой и грязной. Но я решила проверить сама — и отправилась в путешествие по Албании: от шумной столицы до винных холмов Берата, морской Влёры и портового Дурреса. Цены, жильё, дороги, еда, безопасность, бункеры, цыгане, история — в этом влоге вы увидите, какая она на самом деле — современная Албания.

Бункер Ходжи, Музей Сигурими, Дом Листьев
Лучшая пицца в Берате
Секрет семейной винодельни Чобо
Реальные цены — в евро, без иллюзий

Смотрим и переосмысливаем Балканы вместе.

00:00 – Intro
00:43 – Первые впечатления от Тираны: стереотипы vs реальность
01:21 – Такси из аэропорта: честные цены без торга
01:49 – Въезд в Албанию: визы и правила для туристов
02:15 – Почему в Албании важен кэш: как платят на месте
03:02 – Первые апартаменты в Тиране и старт путешествия
03:32 – Площадь Скандербега — сердце столицы
04:06 – Утренняя Тирана: кофейни полны в 8 утра
04:26 – Аренда авто в Eagle Car: цены и нюансы
05:02 – Дорога из Тираны во Влёру
05:32 – Влёра: где встречаются Ионическое и Адриатическое моря
06:17 – Где остановиться и поесть во Влёре
07:10 – Холодное море и отсутствие пляжа: важный нюанс
08:05 – Кто приезжает в Албанию и почему албанский — один из самых сложных языков Европы
08:56 – Старый город Влёры
09:14 – Paola Antik Café: уют и Instagram-фото
09:48 – Семейная винодельня Çobo: дегустация и история
11:05 – Берат: Город тысячи окон и отель Tradita e Beratit
12:42 – Османский мост и кварталы Мангалем и Горица
13:15 – Самая вкусная пицца в Берате — Piazza Restorant
13:50 – Традиционный албанский завтрак
14:06 – Дуррес: второй по величине город Албании
15:06 – Возвращение в Тирану
15:29 – Почему Тирана считалась самым закрытым городом Европы
15:38 – Энвер Ходжа: запрет на джинсы, рок и поездки
16:06 – Почему Mercedes — культовая машина в Албании
16:23 – Замок Тираны: кафешки с видом
17:17 – Вечер в Magic The Club
17:29 – Апартаменты Rooftop Tirana
17:51 – Собор Воскресения Христова
18:00 – Дом Листьев: музей тайного наблюдения и полиция Сигурими
18:49 – Bunk’Art: албанские бункеры и их история
20:01 – Автобус до аэропорта: дешёво и удобно

Tirana’s one of those places no one really dreams of coming back to — or at least that’s what most travel bloggers say. They also say it’s dirty, gray, just another Muslim country. Nothing to see here. But I wanted to see for myself. So this vlog is about how Albania turned out to be nothing like what people say. [music] Yeah, some parts of the city do feel a bit old-fashioned, but there’s so much greenery it honestly feels like you’re in one big park Yeah, there’s some trash on the streets here and there, but overall it’s actually pretty clean. The driving culture? That’s a whole experience on its own. Can someone turn from the second lane without signaling? Oh yeah, they can. But at the same time, drivers always stop for pedestrians everywhere. And as for all those ‘gypsy beggars’ people talk about? We didn’t see a single one. Local girls walk around with their purses wide open and phones in their hands — it honestly feels really safe here. The first surprise? The taxi. We hadn’t even made it out of the airport yet… ..when something already felt off — but in the best way possible. We just walked up to the first car and… ta-da! Fixed prices, right there on the sign: ‘To the center — 22 euros, 40-minute ride.’ No ‘Let’s make it 50,’ no games. No ‘Where are you from?’, no small talk. Just honest, straightforward — no bargaining. You get in and go. A really nice start. The second pleasant surprise? Getting in. Albania’s one of those places where you don’t need to prep a whole folder of documents. If you’re from Kazakhstan, you don’t need a visa at all. And if you’ve got a Schengen visa a British, American, or even a UAE Golden Visa — you’re good to go too. Just show your passport and you’re in. No letters, no paperwork, no invitations. Just buy a ticket — and that’s it. You’re in Albania. [music] Here’s another important thing to know — if you’re planning a trip to Albania This is the first thing you should know: credit cards aren’t widely accepted here, so make sure to have plenty of cash. Even if you book your place through Booking or Airbnb, be prepared for the host to message you directly on WhatsApp, ask what time you’re arriving and yep — they’ll almost always ask you to pay in cash. And to make it easier for you to follow, I’ll list all the prices in euros throughout this vlog. Plus, euros are accepted pretty much everywhere here, along with Albanian lek. Alright, let’s go — let’s find out what a trip to Albania really costs. Since we arrived in the evening, this place was really just for the night — 44 euros per night. And I’ll say it right away: the apartment was tiny. But the terrace. was honestly bigger than the entire apartment. The next morning, we hit the road — and without thinking twice we stopped at the first place we came across — and went straight to eat, hungry as always. The place actually surprised us — the food was great, and the best part? Dinner for two was just 11 euros. Let’s talk a little about Tirana. We’ll start with the main square — Skanderbeg Square. It’s a massive pedestrian area. right in the center of the city. They say it’s one of the largest squares in the Balkans. We weren’t planning to explore much today since it’s already pretty late, we’re not planning to see much — just walk around and take it in. But we’ll check out the history and main sights when we’re back on our last day. For now, it’s evening you can grab a seat at one of the nearby restaurants — or, if you’re in the mood for something different you can check out a casino. Tirana feels cozy and full of life in the evening. First cup of coffee — we had just woken up, got ready stepped outside, headed downstairs, and grabbed a coffee right away. It was super crowded, I have to say for 8 a.m., it was packed. It’s just a coffee bar — I only saw coffee and alcohol on the menu. And right now, of course, everyone’s drinking coffee. We rented a car. They told us it would be 120 euros for the rental — Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday… Friday — so 4 days total, plus an extra 20 euros to add a second driver. and a 200 euro deposit. We checked out another rental place, but they didn’t have any cars available either. Here, too, there were only two options — one small, one large. So we went with the small one. Now we’ll finish the paperwork and hit the road Before hitting the road, we decided to grab a quick bite and stopped by a bakery. Picked up some delicious sandwiches some coffee, and we were on our way. The drive from Tirana to the city of Vlorë takes about 3 hours. [music] Vlorë is a laid-back resort town where no one’s in a rush. Some people are chilling on the beach, others reading under umbrellas some are out riding bikes. And this is also the spot where two seas meet the Ionian and the Adriatic. And it was right here that Albania once declared its independence from the Ottoman Empire — back in 1912. So yeah, the city isn’t just about beaches there’s real history in the air. [music] We arrived in Vlorë, dropped our suitcases in a room with an absolutely stunning view of the sea and headed out right away to find a spot for lunch. We found a cozy little restaurant just around the corner. The atmosphere felt just like southern Europe — white walls, colorful chairs, the sun gently warming your face the smell of rosemary and freshly fried seafood. It honestly didn’t even feel like Albania more like Greece or Italy. And it makes sense — the Greek border is just 70 kilometers and by sea, Italy’s just a little over 100 kilometers away. Of course, we ordered seafood — I mean, where else would you do it if not here? But the shrimp were honestly pretty average, and the squid wasn’t much better. But the potatoes were surprisingly good — crispy and full of flavor. And the salad? Super fresh and just right. The bill for the two of us came to 45 euros.[music] We came here to swim, but yeah… no swimming today because the water’s super cold, and there’s no real beach — just steps. The way you get in is like getting into a swimming pool — usually by stairs. So we just took a look, sat for a bit Now we’ll go get changed and head out. Or maybe just walk around town and see what’s here. [music]
Yesterday we decided to go for a drive and check out the city. But as it turned out the drive takes 35 minutes, and walking only takes 20 — so yeah, the choice was obvious. Walking in the fresh air — especially in summer — is a whole separate kind of pleasure. So we just walked around, stopped by a café, and did some people-watching. What really surprised us was how many Americans were here and pretty much everyone around was speaking Albanian. I heard a little Russian — maybe two or three couples, and that’s about it. And the Albanian language — it’s honestly really interesting. It’s considered one of the hardest European languages, and it’s completely unlike anything else. We tried reading some of the signs we saw along the way — and honestly, it all looked and sounded like a random mix of sounds. The only thing is, I did spot a couple of words I actually recognized — the ones with Arabic or Turkish roots. For example, ‘tea’ — I think they pronounce it like ‘chaya,’ but I’m not totally sure. And ‘sheker’ Turkish and Azerbaijani, that means sugar. ‘Savun’ comes from the Arabic ‘sabun’ — soap. And ‘portukal’ — that’s Arabic for ‘burtukal,’ meaning orange. Everything else? Totally unfamiliar — couldn’t make sense of the sounds or the letters. Before heading to Berat, we decided to check out the old part of Vlorë — just to take a walk before the drive. And then, totally by chance, we turned down a little alley and ended up in this really cool spot. At first, it wasn’t clear at all — was this a café or someone’s backyard? The whole wall was covered in greenery Old stonework, a vintage fence, and inside — it was peaceful: a fountain, a pool Flowers, old stones, a staircase — basically, it felt like we’d stepped into a movie. We just grabbed some coffee. Honestly, I didn’t even check the menu to see if they had food. Just sitting there quietly under all that greenery, with a beautiful poolside view and some nice music — that was enough for me. The place is called Paola Antik Café. Keep it in mind if you ever find yourself around here [music] At the entrance to Berat, surrounded by vineyards and hills, we stopped at the Čobo family winery. It turns out they’ve been making wine here using a family recipe for over a century. And to this day, the family still runs everything themselves The owner’s son greeted us, gave us a free tour, and told us that they produce only two types of wine: red and white. But besides that, they also make sparkling wine, brandy, and even two kinds of raki — the classic version and one with walnuts. In 1945, when the communists took over, the family had to halt production. But they continued making wine just for themselves, so they wouldn’t forget the flavor and could keep the tradition alive. It wasn’t until 1991 that the winery officially reopened — this time for the public Today, Čobo produces up to 100,000 bottles a year. They also have a special wine called Kashmir. No, not the Kashmir you’re thinking of in India, but Kashmir made from Cabernet, Shish, and Merlot. It’s their family recipe, with a taste that’s smooth, balanced, and full of character. After the tour, you can stick around for a tasting. They offer two packages: One for 24 euros and another for 45. Or you can just grab a bottle to go — and take a little bit of Albanian sunshine with you. [music] And now, time for a little exercise. Honestly, I wasn’t expecting much from Berat. I only added it to our route because it’s on the UNESCO World Heritage list. But in the end, it turned out to be one of the places that really impressed me. What I loved most was our hotel. I’m all about places that are unique and full of history. My husband, on the other hand, was not a fan and was pretty surprised by my choice. But I really like it. It’s interesting, unusual, made of stone, with just one tiny window on the ceiling but super cozy. I really love it. [music] If I had to sum up Berat in a sentence, it’s all about the windows and the white houses. Built on the hillside. They say they were purposely stacked one above the other so that everyone could catch the sun and the river view — not just stare at their neighbor’s wall. For nearly 2,500 years, everything’s changed here — the name, the empires, even the religion. But one thing has stayed the same — the stones and those windows you just want to peek inside. [music] The city’s symbol is the old Ottoman bridge. It connects two neighborhoods: Mangalem and Gorica. Mangalem is the Muslim neighborhood, while Gorica is the Christian side. Together, they make up the city of Berat — also known as the City of a Thousand Windows. [music] If you walk a bit further from the bridge, you’ll find a very ordinary, real city. We walked all the way to the end of this promenade, and on the way back, we stopped at an Italian restaurant. And it was the best pizza I’ve had in years — seriously, unbelievably delicious and perfect. And the arugula salad… I don’t usually consider myself a fan of greens and veggies but that whole bowl of arugula was amazing. I’d totally come back here again in a heartbeat. [music] When we got back to the hotel, we found out that there was a great restaurant there too — and every table was taken. Then came a wonderful, quiet, beautiful morning. And it seemed like we were the very first ones at breakfast, judging by the sleepy faces of the staff. Birds singing, freshly brewed coffee, and a really generous, delicious breakfast, which, by the way, was included in the price of the room. On the way back to Tirana, we stopped in Durrës — Albania’s second-largest city and the country’s main seaport. But the city also has a fascinating history. It’s got ancient Roman amphitheaters, a history of fascism, and communism. In 1926, an earthquake destroyed half the city, and just a year later, they started building the country’s largest port here. During World War II, the city changed hands twice — first to the Italians then to the Germans. For a while, it even got its old name back — Durazzo In the 1980s, it was renamed once again — Durres-Enver Hoxha, after the dictator. In the ’90s, people left here en masse for Italy. And if you’re already in Tirana and don’t want to travel far, then Durrës is a great option for a quick trip to the beach Alright, now — hello again, capital city. Waiting for us: a secret surveillance museum, a nightclub a church, and of course, we’re going down into the bunker. We returned the car a day early — we decided that we wouldn’t need it and would just walk everywhere instead. But before we head to the bunker, I want to share a bit about Tirana’s history and where all these bunkers came from. Tirana used to be the most closed-off city in Europe, ruled for 40 years by the communist dictator Enver Hoxha, who banned pretty much everything. He banned personal cars, banned travel altogether. And if anyone did manage to leave or fly somewhere, they had to report everything — what they did, who they talked to, and what was said. He banned wearing jeans, owning tape recorders, and listening to jazz and rock. And ever since, for Albanians, Mercedes has been a symbol of luxury. That’s what you’ll hear in a lot of vlogs. But I didn’t see proof of that, because on the streets of Tirana — and pretty much all over Albania — you’ll see plenty of new cars. New Mercedes, not old beaters, new BMWs, Mustangs. Tons of Audis — plenty of cool, new rides. We’re sitting, sipping Aperol in this beautiful spot — right where a castle used to stand a fortress. My husband and I are chatting about the countries we’ve been to so far, and our thoughts on Albania, and this trip. Then we decided to check our phone notes with the list of countries we’ve visited. Turns out this is our twentieth country together. He doesn’t want to be on camera, but he did give me horns. This is my 34th country, and his 25th. And the moral of this story is: a man lived a quiet life, until he met me — the one who can’t sit still. And now we’re exploring all these beautiful countries together. [music] [music] In the morning, we checked out of the apartment, dropped our suitcases at the storage, and decided to take a little more time to walk around. There were a couple spots we hadn’t seen yet, and we wanted to wrap up those visits before we left. We grabbed breakfast at the closest café — just wherever our feet led us. Nothing fancy, but the coffee was pretty decent. And honestly, everything tastes better on an empty stomach Further down the road, we spotted a church and decided to step inside. No big insights, just beautiful. I lit a candle, said a prayer, and gave thanks. And now — here’s the most interesting part: the House of Leaves. From the outside, it looks like any ordinary building, except it’s completely covered in vines. But inside — it’s a whole different world. It’s a museum, that opened in 2017. But not just any museum — it’s a museum about secret surveillance. Here, you can see how the Albanian secret police, Sigurimi, operated — how they installed wiretaps tracked people, and conducted interrogations. And yes — torture was part of it, too At the entrance, it says: ‘Dedicated to those innocent people who were spied on, arrested, persecuted, convicted, and executed during the communist regime It’s not an easy place to visit. But if you’re into history, it’s definitely worth checking out. After that, we headed to the bunker — the same one we couldn’t get into yesterday The bunker was already closed. We’ll come back tomorrow morning — we still have time. So why did these bunkers appear? Enver Hoxha was really afraid of an attack from the USA, Russia, China, and other countries. So he decided to protect himself this way Russian sources mention the number 700,000 but English sources give a more exact number: 173,371 bunkers. That’s the officially documented number of bunkers built as of 1983. The total area is over 1,000 square meters — rooms, corridors, archives, equipment… and in some spots, it’s honestly pretty creepy. To be honest, I still don’t really get what kind of place this is. It left me with… how should I say it… some pretty unpleasant feelings. I didn’t like being there. It’s a heavy place — not for fun. But if you want to understand what the country went through, it’s definitely worth a visit. That’s it — our trip around Albania has come to an end. Now, we’re heading to the airport. This time, we decided to take the bus. I don’t remember the exact ticket price, but it was pretty cheap — somewhere around 2 to 4 euros. The ride takes about the same time as a taxi — around 30 to 40 minutes. Comfortable, with air conditioning. Overall, a great alternative. So, take note — you can take the bus not just to the airport, but also to the city center. Thanks for watching — see you soon!