First wheel build, not sure how far to go, I’ve seen < 0.5mm, which laterally this seems to be within that. Tension is between 23 and 28 for most all spokes as well. Thanks!
Would you consider this true?
byu/there_I_am_mam inbikewrench
by there_I_am_mam
25 Comments
Laterally seems pretty decent, but that’s still got some big hops in it. Keep going.
I would not. I’m sure some other more experienced folks will chime in here with some pro tips.
NO. Close but you gotta get rid of that hop
Fair play to learning this but the road ahead is longer than you think, radial and lateral.
No. Tension is way to far off. Assuming 2.0-1.8-2.0 spokes tension should be around 23-5 (110-115Kfg). you want to aim for even tension as possible on the high tension side, having a tension that far off will lead to early spoke failure< the low tension side will depend on rim-hub flange dimensions but any ware from 55-70% of high side tension.
Now for is it true?. Again No i would not consider this a true or round wheel. though its not to bad for your 1st attempted at wheel building, radial look’s out in several spots with bot highs and lows, in comparison to the over all wheel. lateral looks does not look a bad as radial.
Also you do not show dish, never trust the feelers for dish, always use a dishing tool. Or stick it in frame and measure left right gaps from stays to get if is close to dish or not if dont have a dishing tool.
If was me( i am a wheel builder and no customer whos paying me gets anything than perfection). I would say start over. back all the spokes out untill you just start to see threads. then bring up the tension evenly same number of turns on all spokes, once they start to get tension the one on the last half of the rotation as you turning up tension will feel tighter, this is normal and continues with same amount of turn per spoke all the way around. make smaller adjustments, dont start with 3or 4 turns. do one at a time. once you have slight tension. stress the wheel check dish. correct dish. check radial, correct radial. check lat, correct lat, bring tension up some more. repeat untill at correct tension. Stress wheel again and check again, make small corrections as needed.
I would not. Still laterally too wobbly for my standards plus a decent hop. Generally I try not to have more than a 2 point difference between spokes on each side, though less would be better still
No, but you’re close. Still a bit too much hop in it. Side to side seems good though.
Fuck it, 9/10 I’d ride it
Not quite yet
No my dude!
Work on radial true and tension before you worry too much about lateral. For getting even tension it’s fastest to use your ears… find a high or low spot, pluck a few spokes on either side of it and listen to the pitch. Usually you can find spokes to adjust that will improve both true and tension balance.
Are you doing any stress release of tensioning? I would do that now and do a quick true. Check that hop. Based on tension guage let that area out or tighten the rest of the wheel to get rid of what you can. Destress, quick true. Then go thru with the tensioner again. If you find pairs or triples with obvious disparity I would even that out by letting the higher tension out and giving the lower twice that amount of turn. I’d shoot for a difference of 2 between the sides and 1 between spokes on same side. Go all the way around, stress, true, repeat. Even with OC its doubtful the tension will be same on both sides. Cant speak for your tensioner but on my old park one 28 is pretty good for drive side.
Good enough for a mountain bike but not a road bike
Spin it at 25 mph and if it starts to hop the truing stand off the table, you’ll want to adjust it accordingly.
Id reset and start again personally 🙄
I’d get the hops sorted before you worry more about the lateral movement. They will take a lot more tension adjustment to sort.
Laterally it’s OK’ish, but I would not be happy with the radial trueness. Getting rid of radial hops takes fairly significant spoke adjustments. It can easily be half a turn for each spoke in the part that you are trying to adjust.
I would proceed as follows:
1. Next correct the radial trueness only, because that’s your biggest problem right now. If you have a hop, tighten spokes on both sides in that spot. If you have a significant valley, loosen spokes on both sides.
2. Then correct lateral trueness only. These will be worse after you have worked on radial trueness.
3. Finally check even spoke tension. If you have a tight spoke and a loos spoke next to each other on the same side of the wheel, balance them out.
It’s usable.
If the dual guage measures less than 0.5mm error for up/ down and left/right. That’s fine.
Your tensions are approc 20% tabgr
All of this are upper parameters for cytech 2, then yes it’s true…
No personally I wouldn’t say so
No, unless tyres are run very low pressure and have huge side walls 🙂
Personally I would chuck it on and send it. For your first try it is ‘good enough’ but the spoke tensions are probably all over the place.
After a decent session, chuck it on and retrue. The tensions should have equalised and the rim will be slightly out of true.
I used to rebuild wheels rapidly for downhill riders in my old shop and couldn’t spend as much time as I would have liked. I offered a retrue a week later and the second true was always perfect. The wheels lasted forever!
No. Neither true nor round.
Nope keep working on it
I like it.