I’d run 80psi and just expect it to go bang at any given moment, at least at 80psi it’s less likely to go bang
jamjerky on
Yes, especially at your front wheel!
Falcon9104 on
Not dangerous, unless you are doing high speed descents. You have a large chance of puncturing and that is annoying. I would replace it
What size is the tire? 6,5 bar seems high for normal commuting. I only use 5bar on my roadbike with 28mm
TJhambone09 on
The tread rubber is getting old and hard and cracking.
Good news? The tread rubber isn’t structural, the threaded casing is.
Concerning news? You didn’t show us the inside of the tire, the casing may be rotting as well.
Bad news? Rubber so aged and hard that it cracks also has less grip and thus increased braking distances and more likely to slide out from under you on slick surfaces.
You didn’t show us the sidewall. If that is in bad shape, it’s a more likely location for sudden failure than the beefy tread.
Kaharnemelk on
I would say no but would reduce the pressure. 3 bar for a bike like that is more than enough.
mtranda on
I would not risk it on the front. In theory, it should not be particularly dangerous since the (cracked) rubber is an extra layer that’s poured on top of the structural casing. But I still would bin it in this state.
However, even on a cheap bike, quality tyres are the single most cost effective upgrade you can do on a bike. Pop a pair of good quality tyres on and you’ll be amazed at just how good your cheap bike will ride.
ilovestoride on
It will last you for the rest of your life.
MagicalPizza21 on
Depends. Are those cracks or the tread design?
Flanastan on
Free miles! ….🚴🏻💨
49thDipper on
Rubber tires age harden over time. Even if the tire holds air it is traction deficient
Sort of like riding a marble
ryuujinusa on
94 psi is way too damn high. And as long as you’re going under 20kph, you’ll probably be alright. But you should probably consider getting new ones sooner than later.
I’d change it immediately. The checking on the tread isn’t quite as concerning though it IS concerning; the main focus of risk is the sidewall checking which can blowout at any time.
This is obviously a front tire attached to the fork’s hub/wheel Therefore, it should be the primary concern since this tire absorbs all of the initial force of the terrain and takes all the initial momentum/inertia as well as centripetal forces when turning/steering.
Don’t take the risk at this point – you can get a Michelin PROTEK replacement on sale for around $40 CAD ($32 USD approx).
Specialized Nimbus is also a reputable road commuter tire I’ve owned and personally can highly recommend, strong and stout construction.
Replace this immediately.
Several-Bluebird490 on
Tires dont explode. Tubes do. More like blow out, actually. You’ll either: A. Wear the tire down until it flies off the wheel losing your tube in the process or B. Wear the tire down until you see the tube and then it punctures on the next slightly sharp object you ride over. The entire wheel is like 30 bucks if you dont like struggling to remove tires and tubes just replace the whole thing.
Either way the wheel might sustain damage/warp if you keep riding on uneven tires like that.
stupid_cat_face on
You are probably fine for chill riding on clean roads. Tires typically have layers of structural support.
15 Comments
Will you die ? No ?
Will you get hurt ? Maybe ?
Should you change it ? Yes
I’d run 80psi and just expect it to go bang at any given moment, at least at 80psi it’s less likely to go bang
Yes, especially at your front wheel!
Not dangerous, unless you are doing high speed descents. You have a large chance of puncturing and that is annoying. I would replace it
What size is the tire? 6,5 bar seems high for normal commuting. I only use 5bar on my roadbike with 28mm
The tread rubber is getting old and hard and cracking.
Good news? The tread rubber isn’t structural, the threaded casing is.
Concerning news? You didn’t show us the inside of the tire, the casing may be rotting as well.
Bad news? Rubber so aged and hard that it cracks also has less grip and thus increased braking distances and more likely to slide out from under you on slick surfaces.
You didn’t show us the sidewall. If that is in bad shape, it’s a more likely location for sudden failure than the beefy tread.
I would say no but would reduce the pressure. 3 bar for a bike like that is more than enough.
I would not risk it on the front. In theory, it should not be particularly dangerous since the (cracked) rubber is an extra layer that’s poured on top of the structural casing. But I still would bin it in this state.
However, even on a cheap bike, quality tyres are the single most cost effective upgrade you can do on a bike. Pop a pair of good quality tyres on and you’ll be amazed at just how good your cheap bike will ride.
It will last you for the rest of your life.
Depends. Are those cracks or the tread design?
Free miles! ….🚴🏻💨
Rubber tires age harden over time. Even if the tire holds air it is traction deficient
Sort of like riding a marble
94 psi is way too damn high. And as long as you’re going under 20kph, you’ll probably be alright. But you should probably consider getting new ones sooner than later.
https://silca.cc/pages/pro-tire-pressure-calculator?srsltid=AfmBOoqf2fFyRB596XoddOyWt7qE4nNEe6OLm5qo6r4wQigV16jDfsiJ
I’d change it immediately. The checking on the tread isn’t quite as concerning though it IS concerning; the main focus of risk is the sidewall checking which can blowout at any time.
This is obviously a front tire attached to the fork’s hub/wheel Therefore, it should be the primary concern since this tire absorbs all of the initial force of the terrain and takes all the initial momentum/inertia as well as centripetal forces when turning/steering.
Don’t take the risk at this point – you can get a Michelin PROTEK replacement on sale for around $40 CAD ($32 USD approx).
Specialized Nimbus is also a reputable road commuter tire I’ve owned and personally can highly recommend, strong and stout construction.
Replace this immediately.
Tires dont explode. Tubes do. More like blow out, actually. You’ll either: A. Wear the tire down until it flies off the wheel losing your tube in the process or B. Wear the tire down until you see the tube and then it punctures on the next slightly sharp object you ride over. The entire wheel is like 30 bucks if you dont like struggling to remove tires and tubes just replace the whole thing.
Either way the wheel might sustain damage/warp if you keep riding on uneven tires like that.
You are probably fine for chill riding on clean roads. Tires typically have layers of structural support.