Albania’s Best Road? Getting Into Macedonia Wasn’t Easy! R1300 GSA (S1EP17)

Motorcycle GREENCARD Requirement! – Don’t pay too much for it!

From rocky trails to ribbon-like tarmac — this episode takes us along the stunning SH6 road through Albania’s Mat River Gorge, on what might just be the best road in the country.

We’re riding two-up on our BMW R1300 GS Adventure as part of our round-the-world motorcycle tour, heading toward the North Macedonian border. But just when the day seemed smooth… border drama strikes.

No green card, no entry — so we’re forced to buy last-minute insurance before we can continue. But the ride rewards us with golden hour views and an epic arrival at Lake Ohrid, just in time for sunset.

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it’s a hot day in Albania and we are heading to North Macedonia We have a few hours of riding through Albania We’ve got a few roads we like to go and explore but uh yeah today is going to be another fun day We had a great day yesterday exploring that mountain pass and those off-road trails And I think today we’re going to have a little bit more of a relaxing ride Don’t you think so M yes absolutely The plan is to ride a little bit towards the capital and then from the capital we’ll head up into central Albania and then over into North Macedonia It’s going to be around 230 km today which is a big day Um we’ve already booked our hotel before we left for £20 which is a bargain And then tomorrow the plan is to make our way into Greece So we have the next few days planned out quite well but this morning we’re just going to be heading on roads I think like this for a little while They’re going to be quite busy It’s a Monday morning here in Albania so the roads are busy And there’s lots of police presence on these roads isn’t there Sean yeah we’ve seen uh two or three police pulling people over I don’t know what they’re doing whether they’re just checking their cars or they’re doing them for speeding I’m not sure because you can’t really go very fast at the moment because it’s so busy But uh yeah something to watch out for is there are a lot of um unmarked policemen and things here so you uh best behave Just passed through the city of Le I think it’s called and we’re very close to the coastline here but uh I think we’ll be turning inland in a little bit As I say it’s quite busy today It is for a Monday I think the police are checking the trucks I think so They’ve stopped them in a stupid place Um Oh people are getting out of their cars now It’s been long enough now that even we have got off our vehicle and taken our hats off It’s been about 25 minutes so it’s been a long time But locals came and gave us water which was very very kind Yeah Really kind coach that’s behind us came out We got chilled water which is great cuz it’s uh it’s getting quite warm out here It’s not too bad though It’s still like 25 degrees isn’t it yeah it’s not so bad But apparently there’s a bicycle race and it’s coming down here in a minute So I think they said we’ve got another 15 or 20 minutes to wait and the race will have passed through So yeah just waiting Well there’s a lot of people getting very impatient including us Here they come Not the biggest of races right i think we’re going to get back on the road now Freedom kind of Finally we’re off Don’t know what race that was A tour to Albania or something made for a lot of grumpy Albanian It sure did didn’t it and huge traffic jams now because everyone’s bunched up Yeah In both directions isn’t it yeah We finally got off that main road and we’re on the SH6 Uh I think we’re heading kind of north at the moment but we’re running us alongside these beautiful big rivers and open green expanses So I’m thinking this might be a nice ride I’m wondering if that cycling event actually came through here cuz it would be um it would be a good route heading through the canyon now The uh nice green water to the right of us I think we have been on this road before many years ago Yeah we have But it’s uh it’s an impressive road It is We’re going to be on basically this road for 170 km Yeah Through right through the heart of Albania Really yeah If I remember rightly it was a it was a lovely ride Quite a popular one too I think Nice and easy route today Yeah Nice and chill Exactly sit back and relax These bumps feel like nothing after yesterday It’s true isn’t it yeah I don’t think you’ll have to get off on this section unless you want to of course Excuse me goat I think he’ll run back to the others No No He’s just standing his ground It was I think you played chicken with a goat and you lost I know I played goat There’s another one of those old bridges Is that one still working for people just but it’s not got any handguards I wouldn’t fancy that Hand rails Surely not Uh it has it has got handrails I think that one is still in operation Not a cat in house chance How much would you have to be paid to go over that m 20 quid 20 quid that is well cheap I’ll give you 20 quid No cuz that’s my money Not the same It didn’t look too bad as you got closer to it And it didn’t look safe enough for 20 quid That’s for sure I’m a cheap date It’s quite a cool tunnel isn’t it i can see green at the other side Not blue but green Quite narrow It’s a nice rumble isn’t it i like that Wow that’s stunning It’s really full We just passed another bridge It’s the kind of iconic one that you can walk across but it looked dodgy And you can you say also looked dodgy cuz they won’t believe me I’m not Yeah There were a few like slats missing on the the walkway I’d give that one a miss It reminded like the Indiana Jones bridge Yeah What a road though Would you say this one is the SH6 yeah that’s right That’s quite a river that one So this is Scopet Lake and the road that we’ve been on winds for about I’d say 80 kilometers along this beautiful lake It’s incredible views It’s a little bit windy today but the color of this water is fantastic This wasn’t here last time we came to Albania so it’s nice to see this has been put in so you can really enjoy these incredible views [Music] Heat Heat [Music] Heat Heat [Music] Heat [Music] [Music] up [Music] here Heat [Music] up here Heat Heat Heading [Music] in the direction of Bal over one of the old bridges with the lake either side It’s quite bumpy actually Amazing views though There is isn’t there in each direction But we’re heading towards a really big lake which is uh which I guess is feeding these uh the tributaries I think the lake is called like it starts with a U like something with a U This road’s got a little bit deformed since the last time It was bad when we were here last but it’s uh it’s not any better We still have 60 km to get get to um Lake Lake Orchid Orchid Yeah It’s getting quite late It’s already quart to 4 I think we spent a little bit We spent a long time at that viewpoint didn’t we it was quite nice We did But it’s okay The days are quite long here so we’ve got plenty of daylight to enjoy the views There’s the other lake Oh yeah We’re heading down towards it now aren’t we yeah Yeah It’s a It’s a decent one It was there Yeah Ah yeah Just here You walked over here Yeah it was We’re talking about when um M fell off the R1200 GSS And then by M falling off I mean we we parked You stayed on the back didn’t you And then it just tipped over on itself But uh the one and only time I’ve fallen off a bike was in Albania but it ended well And ever since then we’ve been putting the um the paws on the bike haven’t we the side stand Oh yeah Stop sinking in Yeah Sink into the gravel The road is a bit meh Yeah it’s uh I think the gravel was smoother At least you don’t get any thuds Oh there not any thuds with the gravel It was consistently crunchy [Music] Some monster bottles here It’s like I’m back in South London Surely not Oh this bit on the right looks a bit better Go on this bit But looking past the portals look around us The Albanian countryside is beautiful It’s uh it looks so relaxed and chilled out It does We’re really in the heart of Albania here We’re right in the center cutting across from the coast towards North Macedonia Oh we’re entering Baz I like there Baz said place of dreams Someone had written on the bottom of that It’s all right So we’re now in the town of Borel B U R R E L It’s quite a uh a normal town here in Albania Shops on either side lots of cafes few supermarkets post office lots of speed bumps But it looks like they’re about to redo the pavements and things Yeah I don’t know who’s we’re going around here Oh it’s closed We can’t go that way Well we don’t trust the dogs Yeah I remember last time we had some dogs yapping at us We did Looks a nice place Yeah Did it And he’s on the corner Not sure where we’re going now Probably should have gone left A bit of a diversion Another town Yeah Next town Through Made some good progress there The roads got really good Um big wide open spaces Um quite agricultural as well their farms hay stags cows and stuff Mhm And we just uh yeah pulled up in another town We still have 120 km to get to um North Macedonia so still quite a while to go but it’s a very chilled out relaxed ride Still nice and warm It’s 23° Um yeah the Albanian landscape uh is really pretty It’s quite calm as well Some bits of craziness on the roads though Yeah it’s either like uh cruising nicely or some sort of V8 Mercedes blast past you about 100 mph or it’s a farmer in his like vintage cool Mercedes that he doesn’t even know is cool Yeah going 20 really smart ones There’s some really smart Mercedes here isn’t old E-Classes and things They look great They must be good cars though to keep going all these years Yeah it’s a steep tunnel We’re going downhill through the mountain Brand new as well It is Yeah If it went any faster it’d be like uh the Millennium Falcon when it makes the uh jump to hyperspace We’re on a bridge Wow It’s the bridge we saw from down there I think Well that’s impressive isn’t it what an amazing road system And it looks like it brings us out there We go around that cliff back in the tunnel Nice curved tunnel [Music] Amazing views all around There is isn’t there i don’t think we’ve seen this canyon before Oh look at that I’m very impressed with that last stretch of road It was all like this completely brand new and straight through the mountain there I think we’ve saved a lot of time with that road cuz I don’t think it was open last time They must have been building it because I recognize um this town just up ahead This guy’s turning off I think eventually Um yeah I recognize this town but I think we came in from the other side Yeah I think you’re right I remember these mountains as well They’re quite um memorable this red Yeah they’re pretty pretty unique aren’t they the rest of the area wasn’t like that But we are getting close to the border now And basically this road will take us to the border of North Macedonia And then after that we drop down to the lake So we still have we still have a fair bit to to go once we get there I think I’ll just top us up here We’ve got 150ks left just to make sure we get there without a problem They got a bit of a market there as well I think I’ll go in and grab us a snack as well I’m a little bit hungry Got a little bit of headache today Yeah Don’t think I’ve drank enough water No maybe not Can I hop off yes please Side stands down That’s good Hello Hello there Uh it’s okay Credit card Yeah perfect Are used to this type of service it’s half 5 and we just filled the bike up with fuel and there’s actually a really nice cafe here and a restaurant So and we still got an hour and 45 left so we thought we might as well get a quick bite to eat Coffee was really good here actually Um yeah we’re pretty much smack bang in the middle of Albania at the moment We’re not too far from the border of Macedonia so we’re just going to head over there which is probably going to take us about 30 minutes and then we’ll have another hour and 15 skirting down there to Lake Okrid where we’ll be staying tonight We ordered a pizza and like we said before uh portions are quite big here in Albania and the pizza arrived and it is massive So what was going to be a little snack to keep us going might end up being our dinner But we’re going to tuck into this and then we jump back on the bike and make our way to Macedonia Right Great stop Time to hit the road again How much was that and was that about €6 €6 Yeah €6 for a pizza bigger than my head and two coffees It’s a absolute bargain wasn’t it it was It was And lovely people working here as well But uh as we’re about to leave Albania we didn’t need the money anymore So he got a very decent tip there There’s no point us carrying that around with us for the rest of this uh trip is there yeah There’s two young lads working the tables there I’m sure they’ll spend it wisely Yeah that’ll be spent this weekend on beer Yeah they’re saving for a mug Well yeah I guess so Yeah you do need one here [Music] Oh overtake Oh looks good that Audi doesn’t it yeah but it’s like we are already doing over the speed limit and he is going so much faster though Right we’ve just pulled over by the border to Macedonia I’m going to get the passports out the back of the bike now and I think the bike documents maybe as well Again there’s absolutely no queue to get into there but there seems to be a big queue on the other side coming into Albania which is good for us Need a hand there Emy’s quite tall that box isn’t it it is I unlocked it though No thanks I got that far That’s off That’s off the battle All right let’s do this next border All right we’re in Awesome I have to say they are always really friendly on this board I I say like we’ve done it a million times We’ve only actually been through here one time before but the last time was the same wasn’t it it’s like have a nice time Welcome to uh Macedonia It’s nice It’s really nice A nice welcome It is Right Okay And we’ve got another hour and 25 It’s not too bad That No if I remember correctly last time this was a really interesting um uh ride It was wasn’t it it it was through like um we followed a river and I think there was trees either side and it was a bit of a canyon So we stopped last time we were starving and we had like two massive bags of familysized crisps each and a can of full sugar coke and we were buzzing by the time we got to the lake We did It wasn’t healthy but it kept us going Well welcome to North Macedonia Whoop whoop Hey country number one what 14 14 in about four weeks 14 countries in 24 days Oh maybe I made a mistake I need to get those papers out again Sorry No problem I thought we were in in but we’re not Yeah I thought it wasn’t Or is this custom oh no It’s custom No it’s not It’s okay All right Try again Not to bother myself set up again Got I got a system at the borders now You see I have to take my gloves off to make it easier with the path I just poke them onto the totech bags here She works quite well And then I got my hands free for any paperwork All right I I feel like this is just customs though Well we’re better safe than sorry isn’t it Okay now we are officially in North Macedonia We had a bit of a kathuffle there Um the insurance that we have from the UK says you don’t need a green card Um as this statement and it replaces the need for a green card but um as Macedonia is I don’t think it’s in the European Union so it was kind of not included on the list there So yeah I think from the paperwork point of view we didn’t have insurance but they um you’re able to buy insurance It was €50 Um I think it was genuine to be honest There’s some some threads on some groups which say it’s a bit of a scam because they call somebody which he did He called somebody and they came for about 15 minutes with a little slip of paper with your name on it You know it looked official It had a little stamp on it Had all our details on Um so I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt and saying that it was a genuine uh procedure The only thing that was uh a little bit dodgy was the guy that brought the piece of paper and took the €50 cash said there was an additional €10 for the taxi that he used to come from the city to the border Um which I said no The guy at the border said it was 50 So as soon as he said that he said “Okay no it doesn’t matter then.” And off he went back in his own car which wasn’t a taxi Yeah I mean the only thing that I have to say about it is that when you put in do you need a green card in North Macedonia even on the RAC website it says you don’t need one Um so I don’t know Everyone was very friendly It’s fine We paid it Let’s go through End of story Um I’m only a little bit annoyed that my research didn’t find that up before I ended up at the border I’m more disappointed Yeah I think that’s what you’re most annoyed about isn’t it But then I guess you can’t really 100% trust what you read on like the RAAC website cuz in fairness there’s not that many people traveling here is there for it to be confirmed no no you’re right And as you say every every board is going to have something different You just got to take it with a smile on your face um and deal with it as it comes But I’m be happy it wasn’t like €300 or something Yeah exactly But I think you have the option to turn around Yeah Yeah Oh here’s that thing that greeted us last time that we forgot about is the big landfill site right next to the border I haven’t forgot You remembered that one Yeah But we’re heading to the town of Debbar now But I think we’re going to skirt around the outside of it But uh again look how green this place is is beautiful Again it is So we have I think around 60 kilometers to Lake Ored Um and we’ve already booked a hotel It was £20 for the night Um so we’ll be staying there and and then tomorrow morning we’ll ride around the the north of the lake and actually go and see another lake is my plan for tomorrow if that’s all right with you Sean that sounds all right then Well we’ve got the insurance now for 15 days so Okay The longer we stay the the cheaper it gets but I think you’ve made it back up on the hotel that you found tonight so that was fine Yeah I did Um but again I bought an eim just before we arrived Um and I was able to quickly Google while Sean was talking to the to the guy um about everything and it helped me kind of be a bit more calmer about the situation of like you know when you don’t really understand I think it’s another good thing about having the eim and how easy it is to just activate it Yeah The fact Yeah that’s true isn’t it um because yeah to have access to information and reassurance um is good isn’t it yeah Yeah Especially when it was like I saw straight away that everyone was being charged €50 So if they’d have said to you was like oh it’s 300 and that guy it have been like okay you are having us on but because it was like the same fee was like all right right border drama over Not that bad Let’s enjoy Oh this is sparking back memories Is it you um this street No but yeah we must we did go through here didn’t we i think I only vaguely remember the uh the stream and stuff but we the river that we followed Oh look at that That looks old doesn’t it it’s pretty We’re still navigating on the Cali Moto It’s on offline mode I have to say Um really impressed actually with how well the offline modes have been working cuz I don’t have data on my phone for these countries So we’re just getting the one SIM to put on M’s phone Actually I think you can give me a hot spot can’t you yeah I can if you need to but we don’t need it I can do without internet for a few days in the daytime Well no It’s just good if one person has it And I you can buy one gig for like £3 Is it as cheap as that that’s really good isn’t it it’s really not a big deal to not I mean one gig that’s plenty isn’t it for googling stuff and checking things on a map and booking a hotel yeah Don’t think it’d quite do for uploading a YouTube Quite possibly not No It’s a gorgeous evening It is a nice evening isn’t it we’ve just gone past the reservoir and I’m guessing we’ll picking up the river soon enough We just got to go through this town I have no idea how you pronounce that one Dutch Actually doesn’t matter cuz no one’s going to fact check this one anyway But uh everyone’s got huge houses They’re massive Lovely though They are aren’t they yeah It hasn’t changed much here in the what five six years since we were here Yeah It stayed exactly the same There’s something nice about that Yeah There’s a really old barn up there That’s uh it’s quite interesting You can see some of the original construction techniques of the older buildings Whereas it like the w and dorm and stuff have come off and you can see the underneath [Music] So cute You cannot do that to every kid we see on this trip If they ask for it you have to oblige It’s only obliged I’m just glad he didn’t ask me to pop a wheelie cuz I’m not very good at them Sometimes there’s an unintentional way but not often One last look at the lake I think it was Lake Debra It’s not going to be called Lake Debbra is it it’s a Deborah Lake We’ve been on this road I think for about 20 minutes now haven’t we and we’ve been following this river here And it’s really really beautiful It’s uh it’s exactly how we remember it as well which is nice It’s also really funny because when we did this road I want to say seven years ago six seven years ago it was this exact same weather It was this exact same chill in the air It was same time of day It’s proper deja vu It is isn’t it yeah It’s quite This time we’re not turning back No that’s true Yeah we don’t have a big slo to go back home A big slo to keep going on But um but yeah this road is a really relaxing ride The road surface is really good in fairness There’s there’ve been a few potholes here and there You have to watch out for the rock falls as well obviously because there is a a cliff on our ride But it’s um it’s a nice ride It’s it’s very peaceful It’s quite tranquil with the trees And at this time of the day there’s nobody using it really So you’ve got the whole road to yourself But yeah look at this open expanse there It’s really calm as well isn’t it yeah we got 30 km now to the lake And yeah and before we did see a couple of big mountains poking through on the right Um so we’re going to have to watch out for them see what they look like We’re still some way off from the lake Are there the mountains oh yeah Come into view Spotted So yeah Down to 16 You getting cold at all i’m starting to My heated seat is on but have to get your vest out in a second I was wondering what sort of wildlife they have around here but this is the time of um time of day when you see it isn’t it this dusk time but of yet we haven’t seen anything Thought maybe like foxes or something around this area Maybe bears There’s usually a big mommy bear as well You can help Right I think that is Lake Oed just to the right of us Well behind these apartments and houses but we are 14 km off from the town where we’re going to be staying And that should give us um walking distance within the famous church that just sits on top of the lake which hopefully we’ll get a chance to see tomorrow morning But um it’s been quite an easy ride so far and we’re going to be there in no time which is just as well cuz I’m starting to get a little bit cold now Yeah me too And have you got the hotel in Calimoto or have you got uh No I haven’t I’ve just got the center in there So we’ll have to have a look Maybe you could put it in your maps cuz you’ve got um some signal haven’t you yeah it’s a good flag That is a good flag isn’t it no I noticed here there’s um a lot of people working late you know selling the fruit and veg stores It’s it’s coming up to 8:00 and they’re still um still selling from the side of the road Quite hard working A lot of the farmers still working as well we’ve seen look in the field and and also I noticed like this this road this big straight road it seems to have everything on it Um everything from like car repair shops scrapyards ceramic shops shops supermarkets everything tends to be on like the main road and not off like little branches of it And there’s a smell of smoke in the air Yeah there really is Lots of things being burnt Just got the first glimpse of the lake there as the sun’s going down Oh what is happening here guess I’m going this way That guy’s coming behind you That’s good It was either that or it’s a big pile of um gravel Looks like they’re putting a new flyover Looks smart So I have turned right and then turn right on Google Maps in my uh in my helmet Oh okay Which I guess has these uh road diversions on Yeah I’ve got the same on the Cali as well That’s good New currency No idea the cost of uh fuel here but we will actually need to fuel up here anyway cuz uh we’ve got 550 km in the tank That’s good I think it’s only like 400 km to the Leni Is that right okay [Music] Sky is so pretty tonight It is isn’t it so the other side of this lake is Albania isn’t it yes Yeah Yeah Yeah Yeah You’re right It’s been a long day today Has actually Yeah There Some of those bumpy roads were quite uncomfortable I’m sure we’ll have many more of those bumpy roads soon I thought our stamina for the bike would be going up but I feel like it’s going down Yeah Can just about see Yeah So that Yeah that over there is Albania Well doesn’t even look like a lake from here No it just looks like some grass and some mountains There is a lake there trust me 7 km Not long Not long No Nearly there Right We’re here in the town center of Orchid Apparently we’re just down here There we go Is that the first ladder yeah Oh and another ladder That’s a cute road Great So yeah we’re just down here and then to the left Okay perfect We’re currently doing jogging speed So he doesn’t think I’m stalking So we’re really close to the water with this hotel That looks like a good location I think it’s that one I think it’s there Just that one Now I didn’t check about parking on this one but it looked outside of the city enough Oh okay That it looked safe But it’s this one Villain Natalia Yeah that’s it isn’t it yeah it’s the bar Oh so it’s all this It’s these two buildings Sean oh is it both sides yeah Is he a reception anywhere yeah I’ll go and have a look Gosh he’s loud when you don’t want him to be isn’t he what’s happening hello Hello You have a booking yes Okay So you are uh for the parking firstly Yes You have three choice choices Okay Firstly on the street Okay It’s safe It’s not We have some kind of our parking space by the first object Yeah And the second you can park in the backyard Okay Okay Perfect It’s your choice Oh great Backyard would be good I will bring the keys Okay Thank you Um where is the room is here So we we can un unload the bags here to take them in Yes you can leave He leave here Perfect Thank you sir What a nice man Awesome Backyard parking Could you ask for anything better absolute result 20 quid backyard parking Sea view Lake views Fantastic Happy days I also asked for an accessible room on the ground floor so it wasn’t Oh that’s good So there isn’t like four flights of stairs Yeah but I I am due my workout cuz I haven’t done much today Big curb [Music] Oh perfect Well I think I have done very well safe for myself and again So this place was €22 a night including parking So here’s the room Lovely Great Pretty good is it clean It smells super clean Got some towels slippers and a balcony It’s got a kettle as well Has it got a kettle yeah it has And then it’s a nice quiet street it’s in And you can just see down there with the flashing light is the castle or the fortress I think it is which we didn’t see last time cuz I think the last time we were here it was really foggy and we couldn’t see much So that’s good that it’s clear today It’s nice to be here There’s some good weather But I think uh I think that’s us for the day I would have thought that maybe we’ll venture out um if we had another couple of hours but I’m exhausted Yeah I’m ready for bed Was quite a big day today Not I don’t think in in kilometers 260 was 260 260 was 260 slow kilometers A lot of bumpy roads as well which you probably could have gone a bit quicker but to avoid any damage on the bike But we also had around 45 minutes to an hour of delay Oh yeah I forgot about that We had the cyclist It was more and then we had the border crossing That was another 30 40 minutes wasn’t it waiting for the insurance to come through So it was just like a long day I think actually like when you think about how long ago breakfast was it feels like it was last week Yeah Yeah Exactly It feels ages ago But we will take you around like I keep wanting to say like Orid but it’s a lake There’s a like a um tomorrow morning we’ll get up bright and early We’ll wander down into the lake have a look at the little church that’s on it Maybe up to the fortress and grab breakfast cuz we don’t have breakfast here Do we not no I’ve not had breakfast here So we’ll have a look Try and get some North Macedonian coffee in the morning That’s my goal anyway And then we’ll be making our way over towards Greece Don’t know how far we’ll get Don’t know what the day looks like Haven’t looked at the route I’ll do that later But I want a shower and that bed Yeah So that’s good night from us