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19 Comments

  1. its not “debris” that will fuck the frame up, its mud with stone big enough stuck in it

  2. Wheels and tires flex way more than you think. You going to ruin both your tires and frame

  3. 6 mm is the value you are looking for, and those photos don’t look like 6 mm to me.

    The international bike industry safety specification for tyre clearance to the rest of the bike (all frame and fork elements, anything else in the areas around the tyres) is 6 mm, except for racing (road) bikes for which it’s 4 mm. ISO 4210, if you want to look it up.

    You can measure with calipers, if you don’t have calipers you can put hex keys into the gaps, if you only have non-metric hex keys for some reason then use a 1/4″ one.

  4. alwayssalty_ on

    Once that wheel goes slightly untrue it will rub noticeably on the frame. If you’re comfortable truing wheels on the road, go for it.

  5. Interesting-Bread-98 on

    Thought so, that’ll be going straight back to the shop in that case! Appreciate the unanimous decision on that one – thanks for saving my bike 🫡

  6. Yougotthewronglad on

    The obsession with “bigger is better” in the gravel world is silly.

  7. Mindless_experiment on

    Too close but I want to note that my Cinturato gravel M 45s measured at almost 48mm. You might be better off with a 40mm gravel M, that measure 42.5 on my 25mm inner time width wheels.

  8. Psychological_Ad7168 on

    Is there something wrong with the rear derailleur cable? The angle at which it comes out from the frame slot seems wrong to me…

  9. Have fun being cross posted on r/bicyclingcirclejerk. I wouldn’t even floss between there

  10. If you never ride in mud, and if it doesn’t rub when you do a standing sprint then you’re good

  11. That looks like a frame built for smaller wheels. Are these 700×45?

    My carbon bike is designed for 650b wheels, and has a flare on the inside of both chainstays right on the spot where a fat 650b tire would sit. Yours looks the same.

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