All I got was a new chain (put on by the shop) and a hydraulic brake bleed. now it sounds like this on the low end, sounds (and looks) like it's scraping the 1st gear sprocket while it's in 2nd, as well as it just not shifting (this might be my technique though). It didn't do this with the previous chain (which came with the bike) and it is freshly cleaned and lubricated. Any and all help is appreciated!
Got bike back from shop, now the drivetrain is screwed up
byu/No_Arrival_9833 inbikewrench
by No_Arrival_9833
12 Comments
You could take it back. Or you can watch the park tool video on rear derailleurs for a learning experience. Also it looks like the clutch is off. Little black plastic lever should be flipped up to stiffen the cage. Could be cable tension. Could be a slightly bent hangar.
if you don’t want to bring it to a bike shop for whatever reason, there’s a plethora of resources that cover derailleur adjustment and tuning that will solve your issue.
so make that your starting point.
https://si.shimano.com/en/dm/MARD001
https://www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/1j3qqor/comment/mg2pdiu/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
Sounds like the b-gap needs to be adjusted. Normal if the new chain is slightly shorter (chain length looks fine). Looks like they might have cut a corner. Take it back to the shop and give them a chance to make it right. Seems to me like the derailleur needs to be adjusted (limit screws and indexing) and or the derailleurs hanger needs to be aligned. That should be charged i.e. installing a chain vs installing a chain and adjusting the rear derailleur shouldn’t cost the same. I would not charge extra for the b-gap though.
DIY. It’s frustrating at first, but adjusting your own mech is satisfying and you, as the owner and rider, will spend more time and effort to make it perfect. No special tools required most of the time.
Like home repairs or anything, sometimes DIY is going to give you the best and most satisfying results.
Also, look up chain lengths based on your setup, make sure you have the right amount of links.
This may be an easy fix – try barrel adjuster 1/4 turn. Also test when riding when applying more torque to see how it behaves. In the stand vs riding can differ in results
Watch the park tool video, or this: [https://youtu.be/wQncKmddahk?si=REV7mGPough5OB58](https://youtu.be/wQncKmddahk?si=REV7mGPough5OB58)
What brand of chain did they put on?
I would suggest like the others to watch some videos and get a feel for how your bike works. What are you going to do if you’re out on a trip and something happens? Get used to doing a little tuning.
Take it back and get it fixed while you wait.
Then learn how to do your own work, don’t take a bike into a shop for a basic job.
Park tool has a YouTube how to and theres many how tos online watch a video buy some cheap tools and giver.
Makes me happy to run an IGH on my gravel rig…I guess until it finally wears down and dies because the shit inside is not worth repairing or taking apart to play with.
As someone else mentioned, the b-tension screw needs to be adjusted. It’s behaving like they slapped a new chain on it, likely didn’t match the length of the previous chain, and didn’t adjust the derailleur to accommodate the new length. The noise it’s making is the guide pulley grinding against the next bigger sprocket when you shift. This interference is fixed with the b-screw. When they resolve that issue, it’s very possible that the chain will then be too short, make sure they double check it.
Also, somebody else mentioned that ‘it looks like the clutch is turned off’. It’s not, that’s the little gray lever by the guide pulley and it is in the correct position.
Depending on the shop, a new chain doesn’t always include a rear derailleur indexing adjustment. If the cassette is worn, then the new chain will make shifting worse.