For the rear derailleur it’s very simple. If the chain is too far to the left, then turn it towards the right, and if the chain is too far to the right, turn it left.
RokenIsDoodleuk on
Screws in all the same as a normal bolt, only some bottom brackets and drive side pedals are reverse threaded, generally speaking. So looking from the cable (in)to the shifter, it’s always clockwise.
dopadelic on
Rightie tightie, leftie loosie
Turning left loosens the barrel adjuster which pulls on the cable. This adds tension. If you feel the shifter, you’ll feel which direction of your shifting is adding tension or taking away tension.
Understanding a concept is easier than remembering rules for me.
forgottenHedgehog on
I just poke the cable a bit.
Ok-Treacle8973 on
If you do it whilst riding you can hear if you’re making things better or worse
eelsexmystery on
the trick is to only make small consistent adjustments and check shifting between each one. if you always only do a quarter turn at a time it is easy to reverse it if you go too far or the wrong way
Oli4K on
Think of it as an extender of the outer cable. Longer outer cable makes the inner cable relatively shorter. You know which directions the derailleur moves when the inner cable is pulled or released.
Fun-Description-9985 on
Wait til you get to “which electronic button microadjusts the mech in which direction?”…
Hephest on
Its like a USB cable. You always get it right first, doubt yourself, turn it the other way, then turn it the correct way. 😀
Limited_Intros on
Unscrew to lengthen housing.
Lengthening housing tightens the cable proportionally. Adding cable tension will throw the derailleur further up the cassette.
The only exception is rapid rise systems, which are pretty rare these days.
Prestigious-Fig-5513 on
Counter clockwise tightens cables.
I remember its backwards like spokes, leftie tightie 🙃
Independent_Break351 on
Just like a USB I get it wrong 90% of the time on the first try
Itkillsmeinside on
The parktool guy says when in doubt turn it out.
I agree, the loudest rear-derailleur noises are fixed by turning out.
15 Comments
For the rear derailleur it’s very simple. If the chain is too far to the left, then turn it towards the right, and if the chain is too far to the right, turn it left.
Screws in all the same as a normal bolt, only some bottom brackets and drive side pedals are reverse threaded, generally speaking. So looking from the cable (in)to the shifter, it’s always clockwise.
Rightie tightie, leftie loosie
Turning left loosens the barrel adjuster which pulls on the cable. This adds tension. If you feel the shifter, you’ll feel which direction of your shifting is adding tension or taking away tension.
Understanding a concept is easier than remembering rules for me.
I just poke the cable a bit.
If you do it whilst riding you can hear if you’re making things better or worse
the trick is to only make small consistent adjustments and check shifting between each one. if you always only do a quarter turn at a time it is easy to reverse it if you go too far or the wrong way
Think of it as an extender of the outer cable. Longer outer cable makes the inner cable relatively shorter. You know which directions the derailleur moves when the inner cable is pulled or released.
Wait til you get to “which electronic button microadjusts the mech in which direction?”…
Its like a USB cable. You always get it right first, doubt yourself, turn it the other way, then turn it the correct way. 😀
Unscrew to lengthen housing.
Lengthening housing tightens the cable proportionally. Adding cable tension will throw the derailleur further up the cassette.
The only exception is rapid rise systems, which are pretty rare these days.
Counter clockwise tightens cables.
I remember its backwards like spokes, leftie tightie 🙃
Just like a USB I get it wrong 90% of the time on the first try
The parktool guy says when in doubt turn it out.
I agree, the loudest rear-derailleur noises are fixed by turning out.
Lefty tighty righty loosie
Yep, every time haha