This caliper bolt came in on a rad with a stripped head, and it feels like someone put it in with loctite red. I couldn’t just leave it because for some reason the caliper was wiggling under it even though it’s so stuck. Here’s what I’ve tried:
- penetrating oil
- bolt extractor
- cutting a notch in the head and using a flathead
- cutting off the head and making a better flathead groove (broke the shaft of the bolt before it even budged)
- making the sides flat and using JT&G pliers
- threading the shaft to use the 2 nut method
I’m so stuck. Please help me. I’ve tried all I can think of. Can I tack weld a nut onto the top or is that too much heat? I’m at the end of my rope.
by ThrowawayGuy011
18 Comments
Weld it to an old wrench / bigger piece of metal and then go ape?
If they don’t come out with pressure pliers, I would try heating it. But you risk the paint chipping.
If it’s truly loctite red then you gotta hit it with heat to break it down. If you can weld on something with a lot of leverage, I’d personally do both.
I’d try a heat gun on the surrounding aluminum first. But if it’s a customers bike and you really don’t want to risk paint damage then yeah welding is the next step.
Heat and a crayon and apply, then warm the frame and cool the bolt with whatever have access too.
I think you should be fine welding the nut on there. Just be careful with the heat as much as you can.
If you don’t want to use heat, try ice spray on the bolt.
Loctite themself say you’ll need 250°C and mechanical abrasion for removing loctite red.
Saw off the protruding bolt and drill out the rest?
If you want to try something more conservative first:
Blow torch the bolt. It will expand and break the rust that’s hold it in. Then it will contract again, leaving it loose. Do not apply heat to the frame.
If it still doesn’t budge, do it again, spray in some RP90, leave over night. You can also apply cryo-freeze spray before you go for it.
How are you gripping it? If you’re using the notch at the top, you won’t get enough purchase with a screwdriver I think. Grip with pliers I reckon.
If all else fails, crop and drill.
Lefty loosie and channel locks.
Heat is the way to open red loctite.
But before drastic measures you could think of just leaving it there and use a nyloc to fasten the caliper.
First thing I’d do is cut a deeper slot in it. Then you can fit something(maybe a screwdriver) in sideways to get some leverage. You’ve got some room to work with if the top breaks off.
Next step is heat on the frame. You can use a heat gun instead of a torch to avoid paint damage. You can also try ice on the bolt if you’re desperate. Emptying a CO2 cartridge on it works sometimes too. Good luck! Looks like a tough one.
First, torch the exposed shaft of that bolt before you cut anything off….be sure to avoid the paint. While it’s hot, use a crayon and get some wax to penetrate down into the threads. The wax will flow similar to braze when you have enough heat. Do this a couple times to make sure you’re getting it down into all of the threads.
Second, I would say tack weld a couple nuts onto the exposed end of the bolt….but it looks like those threads are completely gone.
Third….good luck.
Heat and vice grips.
If it is a customer’s bike, and you are going to apply heat, tell the customer the risks and let the person take the decision. That way you will be not liable if there is a paint damage
Hit it with heat (I use a soldering iron) then penetrating oil, then cold (ice or an inverted can of compressed air), and lock a vice grip on it. Betcha it’ll come right out
Welding is a very good way to get heat into the bolt to melt the loctite and crack the corrosion. The paint won’t be damaged with such a long stud, but even if you were building up a broken screw snapped flush then the paint will only be damaged 5-10mm away
Heat to break up loc tite + Vise Grips?
Give it some heat! The frame and paint should have no issue withstanding the amount needed to warm up red LT