I ended up rounding out the head for the screw that holds the seat post. I tried to use an extraction set, but that didn't work. Help! How do I get this out?
by iraxl
I ended up rounding out the head for the screw that holds the seat post. I tried to use an extraction set, but that didn't work. Help! How do I get this out?
by iraxl
36 Comments
Grind a flathead shape into the screw using a Dremel and then remove using a flathead screwdriver (and penetrating oil and maybe some light impact as required)
Think you need to soak that sucker in as much penetrating fluid as you can and then use a reverse drill bit and drill it out and hope it catches
Side note, don’t clamp carbon top tubes in work stands
Torx bit lightly hammered in? That trick works for shower handles where the Allen rounds out. If you can get one that’s a bit short on the torx flutes the tapered part will engage sooner and might help grip better. Edit: Fixed spelling error. Thanks u/AttentionRelative994
Quit overcomplicating things. Stick a f****** rubber band in it or use loctite pliers
You need an extractor bit to get that out
This is why I hate these integrated seat clamps. Sorry for the struggle. I would also go with the torx bit hammering or flathead grinding.
Yikes.
Penetrating oil of some kind, we like Boeshield T9 at the shop, and let it sit overnight. Maybe do that twice. Then, Dremel a flat head shape/slot into the top of the bolt, and use a big flat head to get this out.
Alternatively, you can take a torx bit, and hammer it into the bolt, that could work too. But, I’m afraid you that you don’t have very much material left on this bolt. If its alloy, which it probably is, you might just shatter the bolt head trying to do this.
Couple other tricks: if you have heat gun, add some heat to this, let it cool, add more heat, let it cool, all in combination with the penetrating oil. This ‘thermal tickling’ could help get this unstuck if it is in fact seized. In addition to this, you can take a hex bit, like the tool meant to loose this, locate it into the bolt, and give it a few good knocks with a hammer, again, in conjunction with heat and oil. Again, if this is seized, that will help brake the bonds in the threads.
If this doesn’t work, your only options is to driller this out and destroy the clamp.
Just had this same issue on a top cap bolt. Thought I was done for. What worked for me was slowly using the extractor bit a few times. Then, I wrapped a piece of electrical tape around a torx bit slightly bigger than the hole and hammered it in. SLOWLY tried to unscrew it with the torx bit and eventually it came loose. Good luck brother.
God this gives me anxiety.
Spaghetti at the wall here…
1. Small bit… excavate a new hole for a small reverse threaded bit…
2. Put some shielding around the screw… wood possibly and hand file some notches into the head of the screw to get at it with a flat head.
Whatever you do… do it very carefully.
Use a bolt extractor, this is exactly what they’re designed for.
I would take it to your local shop, they likely have more experience removing rounded screws.
I do a fair amount of my own bike servicing, but I still will use a pro when something looks tricky or I don’t have or want to buy the right tool.
A couple months back I serviced my rear shock and then rounded out a suspension bolt when reinstalling the shock. I purchased the new bolt from the bike manufacturer and took it to my LBS. They had it overnight and the charge was ~$25 for the removal and installation of the new bolt.
Go ahead and try hammering in torx bit. But if that fails, just take it to a shop. You’re rapidly running out of realistic options.
Assuming extracting the bolt isn’t currently possible, one option is tearing/cutting out the seatpost. This will remove the pressure from the clamp interface, and you should be able to take out the entire clamp assembly.
Left hand drill bit
Buy a sacrificial torx bit. CAREFULLY Epoxy it into the head, being sure not to epoxy the bolt into the frame.
Then unbolt.
# KNIPEX 82 02 200 Ignore people saying grind slots. And ignore people saying drill in extractors
Those bolts are soft. This happens now and again. If tapping an oversize torx wrench doesn’t work then You may have to drill the head off, get the post out then cut a horizontal in the screw to hopefully remove it with a screwdriver. Don’t put penetrating oils on your carbon, it’s just a stripped head not a seized bolt.
I’ve heard also about using epoxy to glue an old screwdriver in, and then, once dry, use the glued system to unscrew it. Never tried it though.
Combine that with using penetrating lubricant.
You’ve still got a bit of a hole, hammer in a Torx bit.
Time to pull out the bolt extractor kit while you still have something to grab onto.
left handed drill bit & easy out
Get a dremel and cut a slot right in the centre of the screw. That will create a slot for a screwdriver. It may take a few passes for the screwdriver to get purchase but it will give eventually.
I feel you… it happens. What worked for me:
1. If not completely rounded use a rubber balloon and bit set.
2. Use a torx instead of hex bit (and maybe use method 1 as well).
3. Use quick glue and attach hex bit (this still needs some shape/grip left, not fully rounded)
4. Always works for me if the bolt has a head, flex a little slot with dremel and use a flat screwdriver. Works ver well but be veeeeery careful. Protect frame with tape from slipping.
Good luck!
Had this happen on a 3T, drill the whole bolt out and just buy a new wedge assembly, you’re going to need a new one anyways if you go the Dremel/Flathead route.
I’m wondering if pushing the seatpost in or out while trying to turn the screw could help.
Hammer and a torx bit, commit bang it in nice and firm, then I personally would use an impact driver to remove as it gives it lots of little love taps to shock it out, rather than large volumes of torque.
Go to a auto repair shop. They will have the extractor to remove it
Do you know the size of the bolt. I personally reckon that’s a 5mm bolt. Keep drilling in the center of the bolt with a equal size drill bit (5mm), and you’ll eventually drill down to the threading and the bolt head will come off, that’ll release the tension on the seat clamp, and you can pull everything out. At that point, you can work on getting the threading of out of the bottom piece of the seat clamp.
Also, am I correct in saying that you got a Scott Foil. If so, then you should have a hole in the centre of that bolt, which is meant for bolting in the seat clamp cover. Use that hole as your guide.
If it is a Scott Foil, then you can be looking at a 4mm bolt.
Use a dremmel and carefully cut a slot in whats left as deep as you dare to go without touching the frame and if your lucky it might be enough to hold it
Drill a hole in the screw and then use the correct extractor. Try to keep the drill bit centered. Suggest 3/32” drill bit or smaller.
A set of extractor bits is a good investment.
Use a left handed drill bit, some cutting oil and lots of patience. A sharp bit, low speed and oil should result in cutting “threads” of metal. Do not use any speed (or lack of pressure) that results in dust or excessive heat. Usually, once you’re close to breaking through the head, the bit will “catch” and back the bolt out. If you do drill the head off without “catching,” remove the seatpost and clamping hardware. If you’re lucky, you’ll have enough of the bolt to grab with a vice grip. If not, it’s time to get the easy outs . . .
This is a really easy fix. Dremel, low power with small grinding disc, or cutting attachment, make a slot for a flat head. Put some tape around the bolt and take your time, cut it back and forth, don’t apply too much downward pressure, but hold the dremel extremely tight with both hands. I literally did this on a friend’s bike recently who was in the same boat. My biggest advice is don’t rush it. I used a variety of jewelry cutting attachments which are really small. Oh and wear safety glasses too!
Oh that’s a bad one.
Get Yourself a set of Screw Extractors, use a drill bit, drill it a bit out, than use the extractor and some WD-40 on it and You should be able to get it out.
Had something recently with the torx screw of a front disc, was 5 minutes of work even with an extractor, never going to buy cheap hardware, but that’s just another story.
Those Screw Extractor sets are 10-15 bucks of Amazon and eBay btw.
VAMPLIERS should do the trick
So many screw extractor comments. He tried it. The screw is done already. Drill out the top portion/larger part of the screw, tap down on the remaining screw shaft with a nail set and boom done. The wedge drops loose. Get a new bolt/screw and ride on.