look up the model on youtube for disassembly.. you might be able to replace everything scored.. but holy cow HOW did you get to this point??
Sirwompus on
That picture doesn’t help honestly, you need to clear out all the rubble and then take a picture…
Clean. It’s possibly saveable if just the guts are bad. Look at the teeth on the inside of the hub shell. If they are good and the rest of the hub is good I don’t see why you can’t install a new free hub.
LuckyKey2278 on
Wow, someone put down some impressive torque! The serrations in the hub are surprisingly intact, despite a bit of scoring as you ground up your pawls. Probably your best bet is to try a new freehub (and pawls!) so see if it coasts freely. If not, it’s not worth the fine work to try to restore those serrations. You will need a new hub, and will need a spare freehub eventually.
Visible-Grass-8805 on
That’s truly impressive!
conanlikes on
bearing failure
New cassette body time
I had a similar failure with a prototype Zipp wheel
FastSloth6 on
You’ll need a new freehub and probably a new ratchet ring for that specific make/model of hub.
Check the bearings for notchiness, play or binding. The spokes are fine, those witness marks aren’t too deep.
If you can’t do it yourself, a new wheel might be cheaper.
Kruk01 on
What brand… asking so a friend doesn’t buy
mtbsam68 on
Most often, I see this type of failure when a rear axle backs out and the freehub ends up with no clamping force holding it in the pocket with the drive ring. If it comes out even a little, the pawls get loaded unevenly and things sort of just grenade. Some of the drive ring teeth look a bit knicked up, but if you can clean it all up and feel no burrs, it should be fine to get a new freehub assembly. If not, it’s a new hub or wheel that will be required.
8 Comments
look up the model on youtube for disassembly.. you might be able to replace everything scored.. but holy cow HOW did you get to this point??
That picture doesn’t help honestly, you need to clear out all the rubble and then take a picture…
Clean. It’s possibly saveable if just the guts are bad. Look at the teeth on the inside of the hub shell. If they are good and the rest of the hub is good I don’t see why you can’t install a new free hub.
Wow, someone put down some impressive torque! The serrations in the hub are surprisingly intact, despite a bit of scoring as you ground up your pawls. Probably your best bet is to try a new freehub (and pawls!) so see if it coasts freely. If not, it’s not worth the fine work to try to restore those serrations. You will need a new hub, and will need a spare freehub eventually.
That’s truly impressive!
bearing failure
New cassette body time
I had a similar failure with a prototype Zipp wheel
You’ll need a new freehub and probably a new ratchet ring for that specific make/model of hub.
Check the bearings for notchiness, play or binding. The spokes are fine, those witness marks aren’t too deep.
If you can’t do it yourself, a new wheel might be cheaper.
What brand… asking so a friend doesn’t buy
Most often, I see this type of failure when a rear axle backs out and the freehub ends up with no clamping force holding it in the pocket with the drive ring. If it comes out even a little, the pawls get loaded unevenly and things sort of just grenade. Some of the drive ring teeth look a bit knicked up, but if you can clean it all up and feel no burrs, it should be fine to get a new freehub assembly. If not, it’s a new hub or wheel that will be required.