For an hour, every time I got to the point of pulling over the last lip, the bead would un-seat somewhere else down the rim. Has anyone else had to resort to such measures?
by bojdoog
For an hour, every time I got to the point of pulling over the last lip, the bead would un-seat somewhere else down the rim. Has anyone else had to resort to such measures?
by bojdoog
11 Comments
Yes. But only once in ~3 years of working on bicycles.
Did you end at the top? If you did, looks like you ended at the wrong side. Ending at the valve makes it easier
That’s not a bad idea.
Absolutely. Bring a friend!
As a mechanic who does it all the time that’s a long time struggle with just a normal tyre without inserts. There’s a few tricks but mostly it’s tyre position in the inside of the beed. Gotta make sure it’s in the groove at all times! It’s the only way you’ll find that few mm to slip that last bit over. My trick is the gut hold. Shuv the tyre into your belt and lean over and your gut will hold it and give you two hands to squeeze the tyre and push down to get that 1 or 2 mm extra. Always it’s hard to explain over reddit. Hopefully that helps next time
Looks legit.
Google: Tire Monkey. There, problem solved!
Deflate the tube, from the bottom squeeze the tire walls all the way around whilst holding the top of the tire. You can most likely get that in by hand with the right technique.
I had this once on a tubeless tyre. I struggled with it for hours, popping of each time after the pressure increased above ~10-20 PSI. It turned out the bead within the tyre was broken in one spot, so the tyre bead could stretch as the pressure increased, causing it to pop off.
Edit: ah I miss-read your issue — I thought from your cable ties you were trying to stabile it while pressuring up.
I’ve also had this issue when mounting Conti GP5000s which are stupidly tight. I always mount those now by using one or two trigger clamps gently attached to the rim (as if they were brake blocks squeezing the rim) to prevent the tyre from unseating beyond the trigger clamp. Then you can force the last bit of the bead over without it unseating. And removing the clamps is simple.
Never personally had an issue, but I’ve only done a handful of tire swap jobs. Did you start at the valve? If so, you started at the wrong end. Was one bead unseating while working the other side or was the bead coming undone as you worked around the rim? I’m by no means a mechanic, but watched enough reputable videos to do my own work successfully.
I guess I’m still the only one who’s heard of a bead buddy.
I don’t typically need it unless I’m messing with inserts but when you need one it’s a lifesaver.