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    So… What went wrong here? Should I just take it to a shop to service it or can I do it myself?

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    13 Comments

    2. _K10_ on

      There are tiny spring loaded latches inside the hub, that’s why hubs make a clicking noise when you coast.

      They’re messed up and if you have to ask you wont fix it yourself. Do shops fix this? Maybe specialized BMX shops do.

      You could get a new rear wheel.

    3. not_cozmo on

      That wheel is barely in the drop out. You need to slam it to the frame and take a link out of that chain

    4. Alvinthf on

      Pawls aren’t engaging in the hub, so likely the springs have snapped. Pop the wheel off, undo the cone nut holding the driver, pull out the driver carefully and see

    5. Lushyalicious on

      Flip the bike upside down and spray some justice brothers on the sprocket and work it back and forth with the pedals. Should loosen it and make it work normally again, but it’s just a bandaid. Pb blast will work too, but I just try to plug justice brothers as often as I can

    7. NaylMe420 on

      Your chain sounds wicked tight. All chains have a tight spot. Find the tight spot and then loosen your wheel a little, and you should be good.

    8. Fast_Hold5211 on

      Probably could do it yourself if you have basic knowledge of how a hub works. The pawls probably popped off. If you take the bolt off that holds on the driver (the cog ⚙️ part) of the hub and then turn the driver and pull it it’ll come out. The pawls are little prongs that stick out you’ll know them when you see them. Depending on the hub could be 3, 4, or 6 of them. They need to be seated with the springs to where they’re popped out. They will sit into slots around the edges of the driver with a spring going under them to prop them up in the slot as well. Look up cassette pawl maintenance tips online if you need to. It’s alot to explain here. But they should sit spring loaded in their slots and then a thin metal ring should go around all of them to keep them in place. They need to be facing so that when the driver spins they spring down when they come in contact with the ratcheting ring inside the hub to make the “click” noise. Sounds a lot more difficult than it actually is just take it apart and take a look at the parts and you’ll be able to figure it out just use the clues you see and reverse engineer it it’s not hard at all

    11. XS-ages on

      Shit freewheel(might not be an old fashioned freewheel)also if you placed the hub engagement springs in wrong then it will not engage.,but…. Upgrade to a good quality cassette imo

    13. ashleyt0606 on

      You’ve said you had the driver out already, so, I think it’s safe to assume it hasn’t gone back in quite right.
      Take the wheel off again and get that driver out. The pawls (small teeth that fit into rounded slots) should have a spring either around them in the centre or some have individual springs (again I’ll assume this is the single round clip type design).
      Each of these pawls (once the spring is on) should sit upright towards the engagement teeth on the hub. My betting is you’ve put the pawls in backwards is all. Unless it doesn’t work after this, a new hub may not be necessary. Before doing the cone up tight. Place the driver in the hub and rotate it, you should turn it slightly and feel the driver “engage” with the teeth on each click.
      As others have said though, you need that wheel much further into the dropout, if you have a half link take it out, if not take a full link out and put one in.

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