Share.

11 Comments

  1. The chainring looks very worn, the cassette doesn’t look too bad. The only real way to know though is to try, if it skips something is dead. If throw a cassette and chainring in my cart when buying a new chain anyways, if you need them you have them and if you don’t need them today when you do need them you’ll have them.

  2. Unlikely the chainring is worn out; they usually last quite a while. The cassette may be worn, but usually people say you get 2-3 worn out chains before the cassette needs to be changed. You can tell it’s done when the chain is skipping on the small cog under high load.

  3. secretrunner321 on

    The chainring looks to be sharp and needs replacing. For the cassette it looks good, for the chain I think it’s better to use a chain checker for that

  4. radical-radish on

    The cassette looks ok, but it’s not really possible to judge it accurately by eye. The chainring looks worn, butok. I think it just has an unusual tooth profile.

  5. Would be a good idea to replace the missing self extractor for the crank, will be a nightmare to remove otherwise.

  6. Slap a new chain on there and if there is skipping you need to replace ither parts too. Otherwise no reason to change anything besides the chain.

  7. If its over 0.75 and thats a skinny 12 speed chain and thin cogs, then you will have to change everything (chain cassette chainring). Get a chain checker its like $5.

  8. TLDR: Chainring is OK, cassette MIGHT need to be changed.

    I would be shocked if that chainring is worn out. Other than the black wearing off, thats how those chainrings look brand new. Really weird and sharp tooth profile.

    However, you can almost never tell how a cassette will perform just by looks unfortunately (unless it’s totally destroyed). The folks saying you can usually get 2-3 chains out of every cassette aren’t wrong, but that’s only if you change the chain before it gets too stretched.

    If you ride a stretched chain beyond its limit for a while it starts to cause really uneven wear on the cassette and can pretty drastically decrease its lifespan. As the distance between the rollers increases they start to ride higher up on the cassette teeth, putting pretty high forces on the thinner parts of the teeth. This problem is amplified for the smaller gears, since the chain may only contact 6-7 teeth at a time, and usually double that many teeth for the larger cogs.

    Edit: I’d just get the new chain and be prepared for a new cassette just in case. If the new chain starts skipping on the old cassette then it is worn out. That being said, if your current chain isn’t giving you any problems you could always just ride until it does and be ready to replace the chain and cassette at the same time.

  9. I’d suggest swapping out at least the chainring and chain. Changing the cassette is totally up to you, but I’d recommend doing that too. A new chain and chainring will work well together, but the cassette might have some play in it.

    Honestly, if you can swing it, it’s better to just change the whole thing. That way, everything meshes nicely and shifts better. But it’s your call.

    Just a heads-up, I had the same thing done to my bike recently because my chain and chainring were worn out. To avoid this down the line, check your chain every few months to see if it needs replacing. That should help keep your other parts from wearing out too quickly.

  10. clowns_are_evil on

    From the pictures, the cassette and chainring looks to be in good condition. Those FSA chainrings have those sharp profile. You’re good as long as it’s not skipping under load. Just replace the worn out chain. I find the Pedro’s Chain Checker Plus II to be an excellent tool to have.

Leave A Reply