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  1. This one confuses me. The Reynolds frame seems mismatched with the extension levers, medium-bleah crankset, and the other mid-range components. I really hope you’re a tall person—that’s a biggg frame!

  2. Not a ’77. In 77 they were still being made in England. This is made in Japan. Note the weird slashes under “The Raleigh” on the headbadge? That would have said “Made in England”. The slashes indicate it’s one of the earliest Japanese made bikes. I believe this is a 1981.

    That said, the decals don’t seem correct to me. It may have been repainted at some point and the wrong decals used, or it may be from a non-USA market originally which used different decals, I’m not sure.

    This is a totally decent mid range bike. Maybe not quite as charmingly disheveled as the 70’s ones, but more consistent in their construction. Definitely worth a couple hundred bucks when tuned up, and getting it for free is pretty great.

  3. I had a 1980 or 81 super course growing up. Same color as this one. Still angry at myself for getting rid of it. I am certain mine was not made in Japan. I swear it was england. 531 double butted. Very similar to the one pictured here. However, mine had the Weinmann concave rims. I think this model is after mine.

  4. If you’re riding with the seat that low, this bike is too big for you. You should have an inch of clearance when standing over the top-tube.
    The seat should be where you should have almost full leg extension at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Both of your feet SHOULD NOT be able to touch the ground when you’re sitting on the saddle.

    This bike was NOT repainted.
    Around this time period, every major bike manufacturer started moving their manufacturing to Japan. Japan back then was China before China. But the value of the Yen spiked and Japan quickly became middle class.
    The frame is only 3 main tubes butted Reynolds. It’s still a high-quality frame.
    The components are low-midrange. It’s a sport-touring bike.
    If you upgrade anything, start with the rear wheel. Get a wheel with a freehub/cassette. Get rid of the freewheel, they are prone to axle bending/breakage.

  5. The Reynolds frame is nice. And it looks like the wheels might be upgraded/replacements.

    Good commuter. I’d add some mudguards and upgrade as things wear out. I’d probably replace the brake levers for aero, and maybe keep the friction shifters or go barend.

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