Wanting to upgrade to a 1x crankset but not sure what will fit, what needs to be removed/replaced so I’d like some help understanding what are the parts of a crank, where the sizes come into play that I’m seeing online, etc.
Assuming you have 9 speed and above, you can use any narrow wide chainring (except 12 speed Shimano) because inner dimensions have basically stayed the same.
You could just replace the middle chainring with a narrow wide one. Shifter and derailleur removal is technically optional, but reccomened. If not, move limit screws to lock it at the middle chainring. Can remove big and small chainrings, but then need either shorter bolts or spacer.
Otherwise new crankset and matching bsa bottom bracket. I’m a fan of Shimano cranks in general, but plenty of options out there.
The big benefit of 1x is the wide range rear cassette. A clutched derailleur also is very helpful for chain retention. By the time you do all this you might as well get a full drivetrain though.
I’m only telling you this because these types of questions that get asked are very vague and open ended, there’s a lot to unpack, it’s in your benefit to do some prior research if you can and provide more specific details about your setup beyond just pictures alone.
chadtag on
Believe this is a JIS square taper cartridge bearing. Take it off, verify, and then order the correct cranks. Or just don’t shift to the other gears if you want a single
3 Comments
Assuming you have 9 speed and above, you can use any narrow wide chainring (except 12 speed Shimano) because inner dimensions have basically stayed the same.
You could just replace the middle chainring with a narrow wide one. Shifter and derailleur removal is technically optional, but reccomened. If not, move limit screws to lock it at the middle chainring. Can remove big and small chainrings, but then need either shorter bolts or spacer.
Otherwise new crankset and matching bsa bottom bracket. I’m a fan of Shimano cranks in general, but plenty of options out there.
The big benefit of 1x is the wide range rear cassette. A clutched derailleur also is very helpful for chain retention. By the time you do all this you might as well get a full drivetrain though.
There is already some
[existing posts](https://www.google.com/search?q=1x+drivetrain+conversion+site:www.reddit.com&client=firefox-b-1-m&sca_esv=9ac0510498ee05ae&prmd=sivn&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjLpJuFxvuKAxWmK1kFHZZdIcMQrQJ6BAg2EAg&biw=158&bih=312&dpr=2.61) about 1x conversions that you can find here, r/bikewrench, r/mountainbiking and even r/xbiking ([particularly this one](https://www.reddit.com/r/xbiking/comments/k9abt6/idiots_guide_to_1x_conversions/)) that you can review to get a sense of what you need to do for 1x drivetrain conversion.
There are also existing general and specialized repair/technical resources that you can review from the following:
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help
https://si.shimano.com/en/
I’m only telling you this because these types of questions that get asked are very vague and open ended, there’s a lot to unpack, it’s in your benefit to do some prior research if you can and provide more specific details about your setup beyond just pictures alone.
Believe this is a JIS square taper cartridge bearing. Take it off, verify, and then order the correct cranks. Or just don’t shift to the other gears if you want a single