Only way (I think) is using a contra-thread extractor. These tools are built for this purpose
Johnny12679 on
Undo the other side first to release tension.
The bolt does not look like it’s completely stripped. A good quality allen key inserted all the way in should still be able to get it out.
Edit: as others commented: tighten, not untighten the opposite bolt.
Switchen on
A few options. On any of these, tighten the other bolt a little bit to relieve tension on the bad bolt.
* Hammer in a Torx bit and try using that
* Screw extractor
* Drill it out
Comfortable-Way5091 on
Apply heat to the crank. Try a torn bit. They make extractor kits. PB Blaster.
drewbaccaAWD on
A common trick is to use a torx wrench that may still be able to bite. Sometimes you can use a rubber band between the bolt head and a worn hex wrench. Either way, spray some penetrating oil there first to try to loosen it up.
What happened? Worn tool rounded it out? You can sometimes renew an Allen key by sawing off the worn end (granted it’s the same hex shape for the length of the shaft). Using good tools helps a lot with these things. Avoid the throwaways that come with Ikea furniture. Wera makes a really good tool.
texdroid on
when you put these in and take them out, you do 1 turn on each screw, back and forth, back and forth until you hit the torque on each side, or until both bolts are loose.
So tighten the other side as much as you can to even out the tension and this side should loosen up for you.
There is no need for a destructive brute force solution here.
Unlikely-Office-7566 on
That doesn’t look too rounded. Tighten the other bolt, get a fresh Allen key and wrap Saran Wrap or a plastic bag around the tool, hammer it in so it is fully engaged and try again. If you have a 6mm box wrench or good adjustable wrench you can use that to apply torque as well, it looks like your twisting by accident which pops the tool out rather than over powering the interface. Slide the wrench as close to the crank as possible so you get the least amount of twist.
Pimpstik69 on
A bit of plumbers tape can help with a key in a semi – stripped bolt. Makes it a tiny bit fatter. If not the above suggestions are good.
Lonely_Unit5216 on
Drillllll baby drillllll (very very carefully) 😁
Current_Program_Guy on
Try metric/SAE for intermediate sizes.
Full_Security7780 on
The correct size Allen wrench from a quality manufacturer will probably remove it fine.
Melodic_Theme7364 on
Bolt actually doesn’t look that stripped. I would try removing it with a really high quality Allen key like a Wera first. If that doesn’t work resort to the suggestions other people gave.
BriceZaxis200 on
Take a punch that’s the same size as the head of the Allen bolt head and hit hard with a hammer this will crush/flatten the head the drive in Allen socket or torx. I’ve done this many times over the years working on construction equipment it’s worked for me 99% of the time. You could also spray some penetrating oil that dissolves loctite in between the split seam and let it sit for awhile so it can down into those threads. If you don’t have a punch use a 3/8 drive extension it will work as well because that Allen bolt isn’t grade eight it’s much softer…
misssnagglepussy on
An extractor torque drill a hole then extract it so easy even can do it
Glittering-Tap-8263 on
+1 for PB blaster, and if you google ’screw extractor’ you’ll find some cheap ($10ish) & effective though they do require patience.
tedontwo on
Are you using a ball end hex? There’s a ton of intact hex channel in there. If the ends of your hex wrench are chamfered cut it flush so the wrench can engage the deeper parts of the bolt. Use heat and penetrating oil to help, then crack it free.
16 Comments
Only way (I think) is using a contra-thread extractor. These tools are built for this purpose
Undo the other side first to release tension.
The bolt does not look like it’s completely stripped. A good quality allen key inserted all the way in should still be able to get it out.
Edit: as others commented: tighten, not untighten the opposite bolt.
A few options. On any of these, tighten the other bolt a little bit to relieve tension on the bad bolt.
* Hammer in a Torx bit and try using that
* Screw extractor
* Drill it out
Apply heat to the crank. Try a torn bit. They make extractor kits. PB Blaster.
A common trick is to use a torx wrench that may still be able to bite. Sometimes you can use a rubber band between the bolt head and a worn hex wrench. Either way, spray some penetrating oil there first to try to loosen it up.
What happened? Worn tool rounded it out? You can sometimes renew an Allen key by sawing off the worn end (granted it’s the same hex shape for the length of the shaft). Using good tools helps a lot with these things. Avoid the throwaways that come with Ikea furniture. Wera makes a really good tool.
when you put these in and take them out, you do 1 turn on each screw, back and forth, back and forth until you hit the torque on each side, or until both bolts are loose.
So tighten the other side as much as you can to even out the tension and this side should loosen up for you.
There is no need for a destructive brute force solution here.
That doesn’t look too rounded. Tighten the other bolt, get a fresh Allen key and wrap Saran Wrap or a plastic bag around the tool, hammer it in so it is fully engaged and try again. If you have a 6mm box wrench or good adjustable wrench you can use that to apply torque as well, it looks like your twisting by accident which pops the tool out rather than over powering the interface. Slide the wrench as close to the crank as possible so you get the least amount of twist.
A bit of plumbers tape can help with a key in a semi – stripped bolt. Makes it a tiny bit fatter. If not the above suggestions are good.
Drillllll baby drillllll (very very carefully) 😁
Try metric/SAE for intermediate sizes.
The correct size Allen wrench from a quality manufacturer will probably remove it fine.
Bolt actually doesn’t look that stripped. I would try removing it with a really high quality Allen key like a Wera first. If that doesn’t work resort to the suggestions other people gave.
Take a punch that’s the same size as the head of the Allen bolt head and hit hard with a hammer this will crush/flatten the head the drive in Allen socket or torx. I’ve done this many times over the years working on construction equipment it’s worked for me 99% of the time. You could also spray some penetrating oil that dissolves loctite in between the split seam and let it sit for awhile so it can down into those threads. If you don’t have a punch use a 3/8 drive extension it will work as well because that Allen bolt isn’t grade eight it’s much softer…
An extractor torque drill a hole then extract it so easy even can do it
+1 for PB blaster, and if you google ’screw extractor’ you’ll find some cheap ($10ish) & effective though they do require patience.
Are you using a ball end hex? There’s a ton of intact hex channel in there. If the ends of your hex wrench are chamfered cut it flush so the wrench can engage the deeper parts of the bolt. Use heat and penetrating oil to help, then crack it free.