Not sure on the brand but this is probably an early 80’s lower to mid entry Japanese steel frame. Decent rear dropouts mean it was probably a cro-moly tube set. The geometry is very relaxed and a braze-on kick stand mount make me believe it was a lower end touring bike.
tiregroove on
It’s a cheap bike with cute faux-lugwork. But yeah, higher quality than most because of the rear dropouts.
That paint either looks original or someone really knew what they were doing. That’s pro paintwork.
pterofactyl on
From the design on the headset, it’s identical to a centurion I have, a Japanese brand. Look up its serial number wherever you can find a centurion database.
Darnocpdx on
What’s the BB threading?
The answer won’t answer the question, but it could narrow the field down considerably.
Unfortunately, good repaint jobs make it hard to determine, and hardware is always suspect in such cases.
Added: rear dropouts indicate it was manufactured to have a rack and fenders/mud guards. But there is no way of knowing if it actually incorporating those features.
jsp612 on
If you can check the seatpost diameter, it will give you an idea of the tubing wall thickness. 27.2mm is butted good tubing, 26.4mm is straight gauge good tubing, 25.4 is regular heavy tubing. Smaller than that is very thick, cheap tubing, and I don’t think it’s that. That’s usually not lugged, as it’s thick and soft enough to weld. The forged dropouts are usually on better frames.
994Bernie on
That heart shaped braze on for down tube shifters might be the key. Sure looks like an 80’s model though. Probably retailed for $250-300 back then.
AnxietyPill on
This frame looks exactly like a Supercycle frame I have called Supercycle Medalist Series 2.
7 Comments
Not sure on the brand but this is probably an early 80’s lower to mid entry Japanese steel frame. Decent rear dropouts mean it was probably a cro-moly tube set. The geometry is very relaxed and a braze-on kick stand mount make me believe it was a lower end touring bike.
It’s a cheap bike with cute faux-lugwork. But yeah, higher quality than most because of the rear dropouts.
That paint either looks original or someone really knew what they were doing. That’s pro paintwork.
From the design on the headset, it’s identical to a centurion I have, a Japanese brand. Look up its serial number wherever you can find a centurion database.
What’s the BB threading?
The answer won’t answer the question, but it could narrow the field down considerably.
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-standards-and-terminology
Unfortunately, good repaint jobs make it hard to determine, and hardware is always suspect in such cases.
Added: rear dropouts indicate it was manufactured to have a rack and fenders/mud guards. But there is no way of knowing if it actually incorporating those features.
If you can check the seatpost diameter, it will give you an idea of the tubing wall thickness. 27.2mm is butted good tubing, 26.4mm is straight gauge good tubing, 25.4 is regular heavy tubing. Smaller than that is very thick, cheap tubing, and I don’t think it’s that. That’s usually not lugged, as it’s thick and soft enough to weld. The forged dropouts are usually on better frames.
That heart shaped braze on for down tube shifters might be the key. Sure looks like an 80’s model though. Probably retailed for $250-300 back then.
This frame looks exactly like a Supercycle frame I have called Supercycle Medalist Series 2.