I’ve put about 500 miles on this bike and I haven’t noticed anything negative, but I was cleaning it today and saw this sag. This is from the factory so I didn’t size the chain.
Do I need to take out a link or two? Here it is sagging with small to small and with large to large.
It’s a Shimano 11 speed without a quick link. So, I’m assuming is need a quick link for a 11 speed shimano (I have one for a 10 speed but don’t think that will work)
Part of me wants to leave it till I replace it and make it shorter then. Like I said, I haven’t noticed anything negative.
Thanks and merry Christmas!

by randomjeepguy157

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15 Comments

  1. My guess is that the derailleur’s [capacity](https://accidentalrandonneur.wordpress.com/2016/04/14/a-guide-to-rear-derailleur-cage-length-short-medium-or-long/#:~:text=It%27s%20the%20amount%20of%20potential%20slack%20chain,(biggest%20chainring%20teeth%20%E2%80%93%20smallest%20chainring%20teeth)) is exceeded.

    An R7000 rear medium cage rear derailleur has a capacity of 39.

    (Big ring – small ring) + big cassette cog – smallest cassette cog) = 39 or less.

  2. Remarkable_Bat_7897 on

    adjust the tension screw at the first, the pully is a bit too close to the cassette on the 2nd pic.

  3. AdministrationLeft52 on

    Chain is too long, you‘re not supposed to do: “big/big” and “small/small“ though – note how bike shops sell them 2×10/2×11/etc. and not “20 gears“ – that‘s why.

  4. thebemusedmuse on

    So chains aren’t designed to be run small-small or long-long. But they do need to run well in their lowest gear.

    So setup your lowest gear so the derailleur is extended but not overextended. Seems to me you could take 1-2 links out.

  5. +1 for tightening the b screw. You also should not have the pulley touching the big cog on the cassette

  6. In small small, it looks as though the rear mech isn’t even sat in the right location for the correct body angle, suggesting that it’s not been setup right at all from factory.

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