Well, that's what I get for calling the race early!
As stated in my now removed post, I thought I finally had this thing going.
Was unable to source drill bits larger than 22 mm for this partial seatpost removal, so thought I'd be smart and find another way.
Using a jab saw, a chisel, and a mallet was looking promising… until I went to break off the 2nd strip and then the entire seatpost slid down an extra 1.5 inches after several hard blows. Luckily, I did manage to use an old piece of coat hanger wire to measure the depth to the bottom lip/edge of the tube. (the old depth is marked in black, and new depth is marked in red)
Any ideas to extract from here?
by Br4ve_Dave
6 Comments
If it moved like that it feels like it should be easy to pull it out – you’ll need to get something under it like a big washer or a bearing extractor and then pull/knock it up.
If it is able to move try to construct something to hook beneath the post and use a hammer to pull it up. Bend the outside end and hammer it from bottom up to make the impact slowly pull the post out.
Some thick wire will do.
Is it a steel frame and aluminum alloy seatpost? You could always try the caustic soda method. You’ll have to remove the bottom bracket but if it’s already a stripped down frame and other methods fail might be an exciting experiment
1 inch diameter washer, another 1 or two 1 and a half inch washer, a really long piece of all thread, three nuts to fit same.
Insert all thread down the seat tube until it reaches the bottom bracket shell. You’ll need to remove the crank and bottom bracket first. Reaching into the shell, place the 1 inch washer on first, and then thread on two nuts and tighten against each other. At the top, place the larger washers and a nut. Tighten the nut until all the slack is taken up, and then tighten some more to pull the remaining bit of seatpost up to the top of the tube.
Finish cutting the remaining bit length wise, and then use a screw driver to break it in half.
Get an internal bearing puller with slide hammer. May require some custom mods to get it that far down. Use plenty of penetrating oil and then use the slide hammer to knock it out.
Did you drill it to 22mm? If you can get a 22.2mm stem in there I’ve got a cunning plan for you. Start with a quill stem that uses an expander cone, not wedge. Cut the stem off approx at the minimum insertion mark. Now find a bit of threaded rod the same thread as the cone nut and assemble into something like a blind bearing puller but backwards. Use a slide hammer on the threaded rod. This probably doesn’t make much sense, but good luck with your endeavour!