In this video we talk about the steps needed and things to look for in putting modern bicycle components on a vintage steel frameset. I talk about the advantages and disadvantages of doing that.
A glaring mistake in the video: I said standard six speed spacing was 125mm. Its actually 126.
(Edit on 1-4-24)
Someone made a comment on this video that was spot on. Also make sure before picking a headset that you consider the stack height. You don’t want to buy a headset to find out that your fork steer tube is too short. Just a thought.
Music by Bensounds.com
How to respace your rear dropouts
47 Comments
Super explanatory content.
Thanks for sharing it.
Even I'm using a 36 years old noname frame with cheapest shimano 3×7 setup. It just works, makes me happy.
Great vídeo. Tks!
I prefer neo retro and all my road bike projects are going to be dura ace 7800
Great video my friend!
New sub
Nice way to talk and explain!
I do understand you 100%, nothing like such a beautiful made frame as that blue frame of yours. It is gorgeous!
Great vid my dude. I've been very tempted to do a similar build. I have an oldish (2015) boardman carbon bike that's cracked and the seat post seized but the wheels and gears are good and as you say can't beat a good steel frame and that's exactly the info I needed to do the thing. Cheers.
That Miyata frame is a work of art. I have a late '80s Team Miyata. Top tube is too short for me but otherwise it's a very nice bike.
I'm doing the opposite, I bought a 1997 trek ZX 2300 composite with Carbon tubes and aluminium lugs and I want to convert it to look like it's from 70es, with non-aero brakes and downtube shifters, but with added carbon fiber drop handlebars that have the look of 70es handlebars, so less ergonomic and more sexy. The bike is 9 kg by default, but when I change some other parts I can make it even lighter, maybe even add carbon fiber fork, seat post and wheels.
This is why all my biles have english threads and reynolds tubing in the main triangle for 27.2mm seatposts in. 99% of the cases. The english threading standards became the 1" ISO standards so all modern parts will fit, easily, including thread-on freewheels (no french or Italian threads, thank you very much!)
YOU MISSED ONE INPORTANT THING. Modern Shimano derailleurs expect a longer derailleur drop than in the 1950s-2000's campagnolo standard and the derailleur upper jockey wheel will hit a large freewheel on an old bike since the shimano longer derailleur hanger standard defeated campagnolo and those longer derailleur hangers are on modern dropouts. So be careful putting a 105 / altus / tiagra modern derailleur on a shorter derailleur-hanger vintage frame you may have the upper jockey wheels hitting the freewheel – the vibration on my 1974 raleigh super tourer caused my maillard QR Skewer to explode and become a missile flying across the road!
whats your experience with these quillstem on A-head stem adapters, is it a safe solution for a wider stem and bars choice?
road bike heaven😍
Neo retro vintage, when done right, can look ace.
Love the convertible beetle!
Better question, why would you?
I upgraded my 1970 Frejus to ultrega …from all campy, though in 1970 did not come with campy brakes, I got a set of those,, for a vast fortune,,, kept all of the old campy parts.. I used the campy hubs and the tubular rims..I found some freewheels with 9 gears… problem was that the quick release axle bent as folks told me it would.. I looked for a solid axle with Italian threads. 145mm length… finally gave up and used the cones from a non Italian threaded axle. seems to work… I am riding a Trek Madone wireless ….the latest….. I have always ridden on tubular tires so I spent another three grand for carbon rims..for tubs ,,, as they call them so 1.300$ Im 78 so only a few years left.. the Trek really. makes no sense.. in a few years it will be a throw away,, no support for parts… My Frejus still a joy to ride,, only a few pounds heavier but seems just as fast.. and lots of parts to keep it going… thanks for your videos..
My favorite Standards were made by Waterford.
A great video John one more issue; if you are doing this to a British vintage touring bike, it probably came with 27 x 1 1/4 rims and modern brakes might prove too short in the stirrup. Solved this with vintage Mafac brakes , which I hated as a youth, but they do work and are easy to find
jon
126 not 125
Hey John! really great video, thanks so much for the advice. I'm looking at buying a vintage KTM, Puch, Favorite or Csepel to upgrade as we have just moved to Hungary. There are probably other brands too that I haven't properly discovered yet, like Masi? Any advice welcome please. 🙂 I'll email you too. Thanks
Campagnolo doesn’t make brifters, Shimano does. Campagnolo calls them Ergos. Most front derailleurs are measured in millimeters just like seat posts and stems.
Thank you for this video, very useful.
Thx for the info, I had a 1989 Miata 718, it was marketed to the Tri-athlete crowd, Peal White/Black with some Lime/Pink accents, a friend gave me the bike after it had been in his yard 25 years, I went through it but only changed the tire's to 28mm Continental otherwise I liked the indexed downtube shifter's and the brakes were great. The back was Chrome-Moly middle Aluminum and fork Chrome-Moly it felt nice to ride it, unfortunately someone stole it last month, replaced it with a 2009 TRek 520 which is good too but 6 lbs. heavier.
The older bikes are interesting, that Miata had incredible paint it was like new after being out doors all those years.
I slapped a set of Ultegra rim brakes on an old steal frame. I think it looks cool.
2:06 Oowee that's a nice bike, how much ? $$$
interesting that these steel lugged frames dont have commuter front suspension forks with a 26 rear and 700c front wheel speced with 42C tires using the old components as an old school mountain bike gravel bike. Makes the steel wheels a question as roads did not start off paved. seems like the mountain bike came first, which probably looks more like a harley davidson.
Why are you widening the drop outs and not changing the spacer dimensions on the hub?
I bend the frame and it works
I'm doing an 8 speed sram group set on a late 80s centurion lemans frameset haven't had any issues yet
Don't forget most of those older frames from the 60s and 70s ran 27 in wheels not 700c
How about an internal gear hub for a vintage 80s or early 90s steel-frame road bike?
I own a 1968 Schwinn Super Sport with 10 speed ultegra sti shifters, 105 three-piece crank, Dura acea D7900 front derallieur(no adapter necessary) and Tektro long reach brakes(ultegras didn't work out), Mavic Open Pro rims laced to ultegra hubs with Wheel Smith double-butted spokes, 28mm Rubino Pro tires. Nitto bars and I forget what stem, Campy cable guides with beautiful fleur de lis design and custom parts here and there. Basically the only original parts left were the frame, fork, and Brooks B-15 saddle in great condition. Remarkable how much weight comes off this bike when the Ashtabula crank and kickstand are removed. I just love those chrome-moly fillet brazed frames.
I'm looking at NOS frames on Ebay and will hopefully pick something up in the next few months. I already have most of the parts left over from other bikes including some Dura Ace 9 spd parts. I didn't know about the brake issues, about what year did the brakes change over to internal nut type?
Easily converted my 1987steel Moser from Campagnolo Triple Racing to Shimano Alfine 11speed hub with Di2 changers. The smoothest, quietest bike I have ever ridden, with none of the alloy or carbon chatter.
Hi John. I'm a long time lurker and recent subscriber. I really enjoy your videos and content. Keep up the good work and good luck with your house move.
Great video Mark!
Interesting that your gear cables sit above the bottom bracket on that bike. I guess it would reduce friction compared to going under the bottom bracket.
Rim Brake Wheeltop drive train. Program it for the correct number of speeds
Of course, you can, done it x 3
Hell ya man. Thats a raaaad bike. Great job.
Very informative video! I'm looking to pick up a 1982ish Trek 610 in very decent shape. Are replacement components easy to locate for these bikes? I'd like to keep the look, but modernize the bike for reliability and performance (where needed).
Id love to be doing what he is doing
Great info. Thanks
I would actually be very happy to keep my Seventies Reynolds 531 tubing frame at 125mm and freewheel, save that freewheels, (and I've tried them all) are total pieces of shid nowadays.
For next season, I'm going freehub (cassette) albeit with a triple front that I'm very happy with (Stronglight 99, replacement chainwheels available at SPACycles in UK at a very reasonable price, and the hardest alloy available) and I'm going to keep my downtube shifters and go 8spd cassette, along with an 8spd index downtube shifter. (I'm using a 6+ Shimano shifter right now ). With a 28 tooth inner ring on the Stronglight triple now, a 32 tooth on the rear for lowest will do me fine.
Again, I'd stick with freewheel, except finding anything with integrity is now impossible.
Useful vid.
Hi , i dont know if you are gonna see this, but i have a peugeot corbier, that does not have a forged dropout, the derailleur its bolted right to the frame, and i want to put a 2×10 transmission in it , it is possible to put a gorded dropout or put a new derailleur on it?