Hi there, just a quick question – is length of this 'main bolt' okay? As for me it looks a bit too short. It covers only half of these cutouts (frame and front fork). Wheels came with this length.
by Smart_as_potato
Hi there, just a quick question – is length of this 'main bolt' okay? As for me it looks a bit too short. It covers only half of these cutouts (frame and front fork). Wheels came with this length.
by Smart_as_potato
3 Comments
It’s a bit short, but looks ok. Are the bearings tight?
Also if that’s the front wheel the metal tab should go into a small hole at the top of the dropout, which is to stop the front wheel falling out if the the quick release gets loose.
Yes, it’s ok, as mentioned a tick short but it’s ok.
It’s fine.
When the quick release is tightened, the load is borne through the nut by friction. The axle is not in shear.
Or as Sheldon puts it,
> Some folks will tell you that you also need to install a longer axle when doing this, but that’s not correct. Typical rear QR axles are 11 mm longer than the over-locknut dimension of the hub, so there’s 5.5 mm of axle sticking out past the locknuts. That’s way more than is actually needed. If you are converting a 126 mm OLD 7-speed Freehub (137 mm axle length) to 8 or more speeds, the OLD goes to 130 mm. That will leave you 3.5 mm of protrusion on each side, once you move the right cone over to even things out. That’s plenty.
> In fact, no protrusion is necessary if you use an internal-cam quick-release, but it’s a convenience in wheel installation to have some protrusion. I once set up a bike with zero protrusion, where the axle was flush with the locknuts. (This was a fixed-gear with vertical dropouts, and I did it to give me a bit more chain tension adjustability.) I put a lot of hard miles on that bike and it never gave me a lick of trouble.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#up7