That’s ok, qr frames are generally a few mm wider than the hub. I’d put a 1mm washer on the axle if I had one when I service the hub but I wouldn’t worry if not
dubquilaz on
That would be 0,0mm (0,0inches)
The quick release if installed correctly will push the frame together a bit. Make absolutely sure that there is no gap before you ride the bike. Otherwise the wheel might just slip out and you will crash.
tonut24 on
You aren’t trying to install a road wheel (130mm between locknuts) on a cyclo-cross frame (135mm between locknuts)?
It might work if so, but risk is asymmetrical bending of the frame and potentially too short axle.
Vast_Web5931 on
Looks like a gap on the front and rear wheels. Your frame is likely a little out of spec. Clamping the wheel will close those gaps. You’ve got a mountain bike or hybrid so the rear spacing in 135. If the rear wheel is original to the bike, then don’t worry about the gap. If the rear wheel is a replacement then you can either clamp it and adjust your rear derailleur, or have a shop use the correct length axle (146mm). Do not add spacers to this one because you may not have enough axle protrusion into the dropout.
Feisty_Park1424 on
+/- 0.5mm is the tolerance SRAM specify, I aim for frames/forks +0.2mm to make wheel removal/fitting easier but not so loose that the QR/axle is doing a lot of work. I’d change your spacer washers to make it exactly 100mm, or width between dropouts -0.2mm
AstroLog23 on
**SORRY! I wrote an explanation to this post but for some reason it only posted the photos.**
These are the original wheels the bike came with. I’ve replaced the rear hub cones but they ended up being tiiiny bit shorter than the original ones, making the screw protrude out a bit more, and making the frame-locknut distance a little bit longer. Because the disc brake rotors get pushed into the caliper, the brake side sits flush with the frame, and the space is only on the drive side.
The front hub has the original cones, and the distance there seems shorter. I was planning to add some spacers on the rear hub.
I couldn’t find any information, or photos of other bikes on what’s the correct distance between the locknuts and the frame, or how would a “perfect” spacing look like.
C-loIo on
This is completely acceptable, do not add spacers like some are suggesting. The QR will pull it together, if you add spacers you’ll end up with less axle in the frame and the QR will be under more load than it should be.
7 Comments
That’s ok, qr frames are generally a few mm wider than the hub. I’d put a 1mm washer on the axle if I had one when I service the hub but I wouldn’t worry if not
That would be 0,0mm (0,0inches)
The quick release if installed correctly will push the frame together a bit. Make absolutely sure that there is no gap before you ride the bike. Otherwise the wheel might just slip out and you will crash.
You aren’t trying to install a road wheel (130mm between locknuts) on a cyclo-cross frame (135mm between locknuts)?
It might work if so, but risk is asymmetrical bending of the frame and potentially too short axle.
Looks like a gap on the front and rear wheels. Your frame is likely a little out of spec. Clamping the wheel will close those gaps. You’ve got a mountain bike or hybrid so the rear spacing in 135. If the rear wheel is original to the bike, then don’t worry about the gap. If the rear wheel is a replacement then you can either clamp it and adjust your rear derailleur, or have a shop use the correct length axle (146mm). Do not add spacers to this one because you may not have enough axle protrusion into the dropout.
+/- 0.5mm is the tolerance SRAM specify, I aim for frames/forks +0.2mm to make wheel removal/fitting easier but not so loose that the QR/axle is doing a lot of work. I’d change your spacer washers to make it exactly 100mm, or width between dropouts -0.2mm
**SORRY! I wrote an explanation to this post but for some reason it only posted the photos.**
These are the original wheels the bike came with. I’ve replaced the rear hub cones but they ended up being tiiiny bit shorter than the original ones, making the screw protrude out a bit more, and making the frame-locknut distance a little bit longer. Because the disc brake rotors get pushed into the caliper, the brake side sits flush with the frame, and the space is only on the drive side.
The front hub has the original cones, and the distance there seems shorter. I was planning to add some spacers on the rear hub.
I couldn’t find any information, or photos of other bikes on what’s the correct distance between the locknuts and the frame, or how would a “perfect” spacing look like.
This is completely acceptable, do not add spacers like some are suggesting. The QR will pull it together, if you add spacers you’ll end up with less axle in the frame and the QR will be under more load than it should be.