Hey all,
Quick background… Used to be an avid cyclist many years ago (late teens), but decided alcoholism was more appealing. Just turned 39, been sober about 17 months, strongly recovering from severe peripheral neuropathy (was nearly left paralyzed by it just shy of a year ago), getting back into working out with a vengeance, and have been riding multiple times a day for about a week now (quickly getting addicted again, like I was years ago).
I'm 6' tall, relatively short legs for my height (32" inseam max, typically 30"), currently weigh 240lbs and continuing to drop (peaked at 280 about 6 months ago due to neuropathy and a depression-based diet). I have something like a 6'2" reach last time it was measured, and needed a 185mm-wide seat to make my current bike comfortable enough to ride while sitting for more than 30 seconds. Guess I've got a bit of a neanderthal build.
Current setup is a largely-stock 2016 Trek Marlin 7. Brakes are garbage even after a proper tune-up and re-bedding (with softer pads, can't remember which now) thanks to my weight. Bike is set up with a rack and I sometimes haul a decent-sized cooler on it to cook/grill and swim at a buddy's house a few miles away. Some trails are involved in the ride (McAllister Park in San Antonio). I've got 4-piston SLX brakes and a 180mm front rotor inbound, and pieced together the remote lockout parts for my front fork (arriving Saturday from Suntour).
This bike is more than adequate for my current fitness and uses, but I've wanted to get back on a full-suspension bike for more aggressive trail riding. My local Trek shop has Fuel ex 5's on-sale for $2,099, but has too much crap I'd want to upgrade relatively quickly… especially the rear shock, which doesn't lock out worth a damn.
Given the sticker shock associated with high-end, high-quality bikes in the retail market… I'd like to build one over the next few months as I continue to get back into it.
Key wants/needs:
- Rear suspension geometry that doesn't suck the life out of you in climbs without the rear locked out. My last full-suspension bike was a Trek Y3, if that tells you anything about my knowledge of the current state of things.
- All-round competency with a focus on trail riding. I've been getting back into taking road trips, and will be incorporating riding more into these trips… Colorado has been a frequent destination throughout my life, and I enjoy the hell out of idiotic downhill bomb runs from time to time but am by no means a pro, or even a competitor.
- Kinda thinking about going for a light- to feather-weight build given how much of a clunker my Marlin is (which will be relegated to commuter duties since it's set up for cargo, and will have great braking soon).
- Accommodate whatever style/length of rear shock that can actually lock out, and would especially like it to either come with or support conversion to a remote lockout (still can't figure out how standard rear shocks are these days – lots to learn).
That being said, what framesets would be a solid foundation? Money isn't much of an object, but I think $5k or so is a reasonable ceiling for the overall build. Research thus far seems to point toward this Specialized Stumpjumper frameset being a great deal (S4 size based on their guide and my measurements), but the bike market is *wildly* different and more vast than it was when I last looked into things.
This ended up being way wordier than I planned (big surprise), but kudos and thank you if you made it this far. I'd appreciate any guidance y'all could give.
by thunderdonkeypunch
8 Comments
You said Rockhopper, but link a Stumpjumper. Before I even clicked that, I was actually going to suggest a Stumpy though, it really is a great all around bike.
Truth is though, at this point in time almost all bikes pedal well in that short to mid travel range. It sound like you also might like something a little more aggressive too. The prior generation Norco Optic has similar travel to the Stumpy but a little more aggressive Geo, it’s essentially a short travel enduro bike.
The Transition Spur is pretty dang awesome too for a short travel bike. You say you will go to Colorado frequently, but where/what do you ride 90% of the time?
It will always be cheaper to buy a full build and right now bargains are everywhere.
You’re better off biting the bullet and just buying a full bike. Also, a modern bike shouldn’t need a lockout. Very few bikes still have them for a reason.
You can get a modern trail bike like the [Transition Smuggler](https://transitionbikes.com/Bikes_Smuggler.cfm) for well within your price range that will be infinitely more capable than anything you’ve ridden.
For a $5k budget I’d get a Ripmo AF (complete) for ~$3k and spend what’s left on a nice set of carbon wheels (eg We Are One) and faster rolling tires (eg Rekon, Forekaster). Keep the factory Assegais for those rare DH runs.
Awesome that you age getting back into it.
As others already commented, always cheaper to buy a full build and then do some upgrades as needed.
No need to focus into locking out the rear suspension. With modern geometry and modern suspension, lock out is nowhere as important as it used to be, when properly set up these bikes pedal very well with shock fully open. I only use my “lock out” on really big and steep climbs. Even then, most of my friends don’t use theirs because they are worried they will forget it locked out.
As a 190lbs rider, I don’t recommend going for a light- to feather-weight build. Better to prioritise durability, weight penalty won’t be that much that you really notice the difference. Only place where you really notice weight is wheel-set, but in our weight-class can’t really go for lightweight wheels without loosing too much durability. I think mountain bike is nicer when you don’t have to baby it when riding because you are worried some parts won’t handle the punishment on the trails.
Since you don’t already have a lot of good parts to switch from another frame, I’ll echo the other suggestions to buy a complete bike given current sales. Parts add up a lot more quickly than you may think at first, I’d suggest making a complete list.
I understand the appeal of building a bike from the frame up, I just did that last summer. Starting with an $800 frame I figured I could build for around $2000 total, I ended up at a little over $3000. Some of that was the shock I had to buy because the one in the frame was frozen, and some of that was because I got an Onyx hub instead of a cheaper option, and some of that was that even spokes are expensive ($1/ea in packs of 20, had to buy 80). I found some pretty good deals on some parts and bought some parts used. I started that process early in the summer and before I had the bike completed everyone started the crazy discounts on complete bikes later that summer.
I still feel I did ok on value, by the time I’d have changed a $2500 complete decent full suspension bike to an Onyx hub and my preferred bar and seat I’d still be well over $3000 and still might have wanted to change the brakes and drivetrain.
Still, make a complete list including cables and valve stems and compare with current deals.
I’ll echo the others on lockouts being unnecessary on modern suspensions, I never use mine after I tried it a couple times and couldn’t tell any difference. Also my “new” 33lb bike pedals so much better than my old 26” 30lb bike. Don’t worry too much about frame weight.
I will always recommend [Starling Cycles](https://www.starlingcycles.com/). You have the option of Murmur (full 29er), Twist (mullet), or Swoop (27.5), or Megamurmur (basically upsized Murmur with more travel). all 3 have the exact same front triangle per size.
Every frame can be set up in trail or enduro mode with mounts for 2 different size shocks, and options for forks whether you want to set it up as lightweight [downcountry](https://www.starlingcycles.com/the-starling-cycles-murmur-downcountry-edition/) at 28 lbs, or longer travel [enduro](https://www.singletracks.com/mtb-gear/starling-murmur-enduro-review/).
All the bikes are also dual crown compatible should you ever chose to make it into a bike park machine.
7 year warranty, frames are repairable for fraction of the cost of a crash replacement (and you would be hardpressed to damage a steel bike really), steel has extra give so its comfortable to ride and tracks well. Super simple to service, one set of bearings and new shock bushings, and you are good to go. [Custom color options](https://www.starlingcycles.com/custom-paint-and-graphics/) as well for extra bling.
At your height, the Megamurmur set up in trail mode with 140mm of travel is right up your alley.
Personally ive been on a Giant Trance, Pole Machine, Ibis Ripmo, YT Capra, Salsa Spearfish, and so far, my [Murmur](https://www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/1b7fbuo/dont_overlook_british_steel_bikes_quick_review_of/) is pretty much the best all around bike I have ever ridden.
Stumpjumper is an awesome bike. I have 2 in my family.
That said, the discounts on them are so steep right now just bite the bullet and get a new one. Or, even a used one. Deals!
Thanks a ton for the input, everyone. I went over to a local Specialized dealer to lay hands on a couple Stumpjumpers, and had a few takeaways:
* Y’all are right. Geometry and shock tech has changed so friggin much since I last rode bikes like that, that lockouts are definitely uncommon for a reason.
* It’ll be absolutely impossible for me to compete with current prices building one myself. I rode a Stumpjumper Expert (carbon), on sale for $4k, and Jesus… I didn’t factor carbon fiber wheels into my build plan at all. I had never felt how significant unsprung weight is in the context of a mountain bike (was already intimately familiar in the world of vehicles). Based on their prices alone, I couldn’t compete with that price without already owning a ton of high-end parts.
* Specialized’s sizing calculator isn’t perfect. Even with my odd proportions, an S4 frame was far too small for me. An S5 was a damn-near perfect fit (and now I’m realizing I was sold an undersized bike when I bought my Marlin 7, at least in terms of its length).
It’ll be wiser for me to spend a few bucks on a cheap used bike (or bikes) to have available for other friends trying to get into healthier habits, put the rest of the money into ongoing projects, and just ride the sh*t out of mine for a while until I’m actually riding trails on which a nicer piece of kit would make a substantial difference.
That being said, I have noticed massive sales at a lot of shops. Are these liquidations of surplus inventory from the spike in demand during the pandemic? Or decently-reliable seasonal/generational sales?