I'm working on a resto-mod build of a Raleigh frame that has a 126mm rear hub spacing. I plan to install a 130mm hub and a 10-speed gravel groupset, such as Microshift Sword or Shimano GRX. I know about cold setting but don't have much experience with it. Does anyone have any tips or insights for this project?
by headux
7 Comments
130mm hubs work like a charm on 126mm frames. Don’t try to bend the frame to cold-set it, just spread gently while inserting the wheel in place.
Other stuff to watch out: tire clearance and chainring clearance on the exterior of the wishbone.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdibmxBuMy0.
Yes.
As above spreading the dropout slightly to fit a 130mm wheel with a freehub, assuming non-disk.
Or looking for a wheel that could be rebuilt slightly narrower by removing spacers and shortening the axle
You’ll get better shifting if you coldset to 135mm. Coldsetting is deadnuts simple with the threaded rod method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdibmxBuMy0 (Use sheldon’s string method to check, and if you need to adjust just one side, you can use his 2×4 method to even things out: https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#spreading)
You’ll want to re-align the dropouts after coldsetting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PsU8IkkFaok (this is not so necessary with 7/8 speed drivetrains, but with 9+ the cog spacing is more sensitive to maligned dropouts/hangers.)
Modern gravel groupsets are built around 135/142 rear spacing. The cassettes you’re talking about will fit on 130 hubs, but the center of the cassette will be further inboard relative to the crank, meaning all of your chain angles become more extreme. If you’re running 1x you could use a 1x ring that sits in the small ring position on a double crankset (but that rules out using the Sword or GRX cranks, as they don’t offer that kind of flexibility). Another downside is that running a 1x ring in the small ring position also limits the max chainring size on some frames.
Coldsetting to 135mm centers the cassette better on Gravel cranks, 1x or 2x, meaning better chain angles across the entire cassette. Better chain angles mean less noise, better shifting, and longer drivetrain life.
Just be very aware of the other factors like brake compatibility and tire clearance, if you’re trying to gravelize this bike.
Modern gravel shifter/brake levers are usually hydraulic, incompatible with older rim brakes. And you will be very lucky to fit anything wider than 28mm tires in an old frame.
https://preview.redd.it/gj1jyuftmf0d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce2bb5da856eab94a062b9e0bb1dcbff4560e880
Gravelized 80s road bike I built up. 1x with 38t front ring 49mm chainline and a 130 rear hub with 10 speed 11-43. If your chainstays are long enough you don’t need to worry all that much about chainline. This bike has 126mm dropouts and the 130mm hub fit fine. Depending on the hub/cassette/rim combo 11 speed can be problematic. My derailleur rubbed the spokes slightly with 11 speed so I settled for 10 speed. Shifts flawlessly. Had to convert to 650b to clear wide enough tires. Got a longer reach caliper for the rear and the front brake is a drum brake.
I’m running a Deore XT in an old Bianchi Frame with ZERO issues.