Pretty much tried anything, I am about to cut it from the end but I am wondering if you have any other suggestions. And if I cut it from the middle, do you think the small part will be still stuck?
by OrdinaryVisit
Pretty much tried anything, I am about to cut it from the end but I am wondering if you have any other suggestions. And if I cut it from the middle, do you think the small part will be still stuck?
by OrdinaryVisit
5 Comments
Big ass flathead screwdriver. There’s a slot for it.
Hammer a torx bit in
I love heat on metal. The expansion can break the seized interface. I’d get a heat gun on it. What’s the downside? Add a squirt of penetrating oil not at the head, but via that gap, obviously not while heating. Use in addition to the other methods suggested.
Not that I think it is the case here, but the best way to break threadlocker is with heat.
Hack-saw the part of the bolt that is between the clamp (as close to the bolt head side as possible). That will relieve the pressure and make half of the bolt easy to remove. Cut a flat-head slot in the remaining half of the bolt and remove easily.
The saddle rail clamp bolt on my seatpost both seized rusted and the head rounded, and nothing that I tried to jam in there would gain sufficient purchase to break it loose, and it was too recessed to cut a flat blade slot in it. So I applied penetrating oil and then drilled it out with a left-handed drill bit set I got at HF, progressively moving from smaller to larger bits until I could jam a bolt extractor bit in there which I then used to remove the bolt. It’s not that hard, just requires a few specialized tools, some oil and a drill. I have a tap and die set that I used to chase and clean the bore threads, but usually a shop tower or rag with oil will do. When it’s time to install a new fastener, use some anti-seize paste.