I’m swapping in a new drivetrain and the shimano instructions don’t seem to address the preferred bend radius of the cable housing to the derailleur. Does what I have here look ok or should I shorten it a bit?
JRAPodcast on
I would install the wheel, size chain, adjust b-tension first. That tells you where the derailleur is going to land/clock when in the ready-to-ride position.
Leafy0 on
If anything that bend might be too tight. Damn sram for suing the rollamajig out of business. I think someone from China said fuck patent law and you can get them on eBay again though, not sure what they’re actually called, but it’s a pulley that goes on shimano mechs to make the cable entrance angle not dumb.
seekinbigmouths on
that’s too tight in my opinion.
GreatfulMu on
Shorten that sounds that it comes out of the chain stay at a nearly straight line, after you have a wheel, and chain on, and the B limit set.
This will certainly cause premature wear on the cable/housing, and add more friction.
Henrique_Lucas on
Unrelated, but what bike is this? Beautiful dropout.
nhluhr on
OP, most of Shimano’s Shadow+ type gravel and road rear derailleurs are meant to be used with a short super-flexible piece of shifter housing (Shimano calls it OT-RS900 and it comes with retail-packaged derailleurs).
That extra flexibility (given by its spiral-wound construction similar to brake housing) makes this bend a non-issue. If your current housing run is just full length SIS cable, it won’t be happy with the bend – BUT making the loop longer than it is will introduce additional counter bends. Your best bet is to use the OT-RS900 piece. If your frame doesn’t have a housing stop where it comes out, the way to do it is with a [4mm Housing Connector](https://jagwire.com/products/small-parts/connecting-junction-ferrules) to let you use the OT-RS900 for that last 8 or so inches.
yogorilla37 on
My Ultegra R8000 mech came with a table explaining how much housing to use based on the distance from the frame cable stop to the barrel adjuster, I’d start with checking for that.
8 Comments
I’m swapping in a new drivetrain and the shimano instructions don’t seem to address the preferred bend radius of the cable housing to the derailleur. Does what I have here look ok or should I shorten it a bit?
I would install the wheel, size chain, adjust b-tension first. That tells you where the derailleur is going to land/clock when in the ready-to-ride position.
If anything that bend might be too tight. Damn sram for suing the rollamajig out of business. I think someone from China said fuck patent law and you can get them on eBay again though, not sure what they’re actually called, but it’s a pulley that goes on shimano mechs to make the cable entrance angle not dumb.
that’s too tight in my opinion.
Shorten that sounds that it comes out of the chain stay at a nearly straight line, after you have a wheel, and chain on, and the B limit set.
This will certainly cause premature wear on the cable/housing, and add more friction.
Unrelated, but what bike is this? Beautiful dropout.
OP, most of Shimano’s Shadow+ type gravel and road rear derailleurs are meant to be used with a short super-flexible piece of shifter housing (Shimano calls it OT-RS900 and it comes with retail-packaged derailleurs).
That extra flexibility (given by its spiral-wound construction similar to brake housing) makes this bend a non-issue. If your current housing run is just full length SIS cable, it won’t be happy with the bend – BUT making the loop longer than it is will introduce additional counter bends. Your best bet is to use the OT-RS900 piece. If your frame doesn’t have a housing stop where it comes out, the way to do it is with a [4mm Housing Connector](https://jagwire.com/products/small-parts/connecting-junction-ferrules) to let you use the OT-RS900 for that last 8 or so inches.
My Ultegra R8000 mech came with a table explaining how much housing to use based on the distance from the frame cable stop to the barrel adjuster, I’d start with checking for that.