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13 Comments

  1. Chain must be long enough to go into big-big without ripping the derailleur off, and short enough to go into small-small with the derailleur still providing tension and the chain not rubbing on itself. If you meet those criteria then you have nothing to worry about.

  2. PiggypPiggyyYaya on

    That’s actually pretty good. If you’re a weight winnie you could lose more links if you’d like.

  3. Where you live? I’m in the flat Chicago burbs and thinking of going 1x on my roadie.

  4. Great-Sandwich1466 on

    In a word, yes. Does it matter with no small chainring, no. I’d leave it alone.

  5. You could shorten it but I’m not sure it would benefit you to do so. Alternatively, you could leave it long for if/when you realize 54/28 is a little rough on hills and want to go to a cassette with a larger cog.

  6. Great-Sandwich1466 on

    I would put some bolts or some sort of cap over the braze on mount holes. Protect it from invasion of filth.

  7. LuciferSamS1amCat on

    This is fine. Nothing wrong with it. If it were my bike I’d trim a link or two, but this 100% is good too.

  8. Try bounce testing it in big-big chainring to cog. Like shift ur bike into the lowest gear and drop ur bike from the air and see of theres a lot of movement of the chain. If theres minimal movement or wiggle, youre fine. But if theres an excessive amount of wiggle, or even sometimes, the chain on the big cog will derail and jump to the smaller cogs, then cut the chain off by a little.

  9. It looks good tbh. I usually route chains so that when it’s on the smallest cog there’s just enough tension to just barely pull on the derailleur cage.
    Considering you’re on a 1x, this is ideal.

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