My disks were rubbing, took it to the shop, the guy bent the disc, went home, breaks Don’t work, took off the arm thing and re assembled it, now works, re bent the discs it it’s original and now I’m here
Truing the rotor was likely the right call. Removing and re-assembling the swingarm likely wasn’t. I would have discussed it with the shop as soon as I discovered it wasn’t working properly, which for me would have been while I was still at the shop. Back you go.
singlejeff on
Looks like the ball bearings in that brake are running beyond the end of their tracks. To me this means you have to adjust the pads closer to the rotor.
RepresentativeKeebs on
Did the guy at the shop also replace the pads? If it still has the same pads as before, those pads would already be unevenly worn out from the off-true rotor, and they would be likely to rub against a trued rotor. They should be replaced when the rotor is properly trued.
Alive-Bid9086 on
Just loosen the screws holding the caliper. Then pull the brake handle and keep the handle tight while you tighten the caliper screws.
Stevenage91 on
The caliper that’s on the inside of the wheel needs adjusting. On the caliper housing (on the inside of the wheels) there should be a large hex head, that’s sunk into the caliper housing. Turning this will adjust that one caliper and move it closer to the disc.
On cable disc brakes, only one pad moves, so the other needs adjusting to compensate for the wear.
Ecstatic_Item_1334 on
You have a bell now
Suitable-Wafer5803 on
Update: I fixed the snapping but the but the breaks won’t work unless I tighten the hex screw in the spoke side, which if I do leads to scraping on the disk, and the breaks barely work. I think I need new pads and the true the disc again.
7 Comments
Truing the rotor was likely the right call. Removing and re-assembling the swingarm likely wasn’t. I would have discussed it with the shop as soon as I discovered it wasn’t working properly, which for me would have been while I was still at the shop. Back you go.
Looks like the ball bearings in that brake are running beyond the end of their tracks. To me this means you have to adjust the pads closer to the rotor.
Did the guy at the shop also replace the pads? If it still has the same pads as before, those pads would already be unevenly worn out from the off-true rotor, and they would be likely to rub against a trued rotor. They should be replaced when the rotor is properly trued.
Just loosen the screws holding the caliper. Then pull the brake handle and keep the handle tight while you tighten the caliper screws.
The caliper that’s on the inside of the wheel needs adjusting. On the caliper housing (on the inside of the wheels) there should be a large hex head, that’s sunk into the caliper housing. Turning this will adjust that one caliper and move it closer to the disc.
On cable disc brakes, only one pad moves, so the other needs adjusting to compensate for the wear.
You have a bell now
Update: I fixed the snapping but the but the breaks won’t work unless I tighten the hex screw in the spoke side, which if I do leads to scraping on the disk, and the breaks barely work. I think I need new pads and the true the disc again.