If the individual chainrings can be removed then yes you can. The middle ring is the one you’ll want to keep. Then you need to adjust the limit screws on the FD to keep the chain on the ring.
PeanutbutterSamich on
yes, you can just leave it in the middle ring
you can also remove the front derailuere, remove the inner and outer rings, and either use the current middle ring or switch it for something with more or less teeth. You will probably want to use either a chain keeper of sometype or use a narrow/wide ring
ZGW28 on
Get rid of front mech, inner and outer ring, and have fun!
You mihgt need some spacer to get the bolts fot middle ring to clamp, or a set of shorter ones.
Stoney3K on
Just don’t touch your FD anymore. Voila, you now have a (somewhat heavy) 1x.
In all seriousness, you’d probably want to find a front crank that is spaced out far enough to give you the right chain line, probably in the same position as the middle ring.
Looks like it’s a square taper BB so that shouldn’t be difficult to find.
Working-Promotion728 on
The existing middle ring was designed to easily shift onto and off the teeth, which makes it more likely to drop the chain unexpectedly while riding. It is not guaranteed to happen, but it could get annoying. Removing the large and small rings and replacing the middle ring with a “narrow-wide” ring is relatively cheap and easy and could save you a lot of headaches. You’ll probably need shorter chainring bolts designed for 1x as well, which are also cheap.
uncle_jacob on
Before you buy a narrow-wide chain ring, it is worth trying the 1x with one of the rings you have. You can see if you like the ratio/teeth number before buying something expensive, and you may get lucky and not have shifting problems with the original ring. This is not usually the case, but I have been running a 1x with a conventional chainring and no chainguide for years, and it has never had shifting problems—knock on wood.
Antti5 on
That looks to be a 130 mm BCD for the outer rings, so I would personally get a 1x ring in a size that suits your riding. Probably it’s a size somewhere between your current middle and big ring.
You can mount the single ring on either side of the crank spider, but on the inside (in the middle position) the chainline is probably better.
Also, you need “single stack” chainring bolts, because your current bolts are designed for two chainrings and are likely too long to hold just one chainring.
Top_Objective9877 on
I generally try and run a chainring that is my average speed in the middle cassette cog in the back. That way you’re straight with the chain, and you can shift up or down pretty comfortably. My middle gear is 50/20 on a 12-34 9 speed. 50 tooth chainring rests in the middle of the cassette and the chain is pretty straight.
poohmustdie on
Have you got external or internal routed shifters, I have external and it drives my OCD nuts, not having a cable where one should be.
under2x on
Why do you want to do that? If you just get your front mech working well you will enjoy a much greater gear range than any 1x and it will cost very little.
10 Comments
If the individual chainrings can be removed then yes you can. The middle ring is the one you’ll want to keep. Then you need to adjust the limit screws on the FD to keep the chain on the ring.
yes, you can just leave it in the middle ring
you can also remove the front derailuere, remove the inner and outer rings, and either use the current middle ring or switch it for something with more or less teeth. You will probably want to use either a chain keeper of sometype or use a narrow/wide ring
Get rid of front mech, inner and outer ring, and have fun!
You mihgt need some spacer to get the bolts fot middle ring to clamp, or a set of shorter ones.
Just don’t touch your FD anymore. Voila, you now have a (somewhat heavy) 1x.
In all seriousness, you’d probably want to find a front crank that is spaced out far enough to give you the right chain line, probably in the same position as the middle ring.
Looks like it’s a square taper BB so that shouldn’t be difficult to find.
The existing middle ring was designed to easily shift onto and off the teeth, which makes it more likely to drop the chain unexpectedly while riding. It is not guaranteed to happen, but it could get annoying. Removing the large and small rings and replacing the middle ring with a “narrow-wide” ring is relatively cheap and easy and could save you a lot of headaches. You’ll probably need shorter chainring bolts designed for 1x as well, which are also cheap.
Before you buy a narrow-wide chain ring, it is worth trying the 1x with one of the rings you have. You can see if you like the ratio/teeth number before buying something expensive, and you may get lucky and not have shifting problems with the original ring. This is not usually the case, but I have been running a 1x with a conventional chainring and no chainguide for years, and it has never had shifting problems—knock on wood.
That looks to be a 130 mm BCD for the outer rings, so I would personally get a 1x ring in a size that suits your riding. Probably it’s a size somewhere between your current middle and big ring.
You can mount the single ring on either side of the crank spider, but on the inside (in the middle position) the chainline is probably better.
Also, you need “single stack” chainring bolts, because your current bolts are designed for two chainrings and are likely too long to hold just one chainring.
I generally try and run a chainring that is my average speed in the middle cassette cog in the back. That way you’re straight with the chain, and you can shift up or down pretty comfortably. My middle gear is 50/20 on a 12-34 9 speed. 50 tooth chainring rests in the middle of the cassette and the chain is pretty straight.
Have you got external or internal routed shifters, I have external and it drives my OCD nuts, not having a cable where one should be.
Why do you want to do that? If you just get your front mech working well you will enjoy a much greater gear range than any 1x and it will cost very little.