I normally use my penis to tension that bolt. Wth were you doing?
bikeguru76 on
Drill and an extractor.
Deckard_Rep66 on
Steps to tighten play in stem (add preload):
1. Loosen stem bolts.
2. Tighten expander bolt – this doesn’t need massive amounts of force (certainly not enough to snap the expander bolt).
3. Tighten stem bolts.
4. (Optional) you can remove the cap and the expander bolt if you *really* wanted to. There job is (for now) done.
In your current situation – ez out. Or go the route of cutting a groove in what remains of the bolt and using a flat head screw driver. In my experience they both work, but the ex out is… well, easier.
im_a_question_asker on
I just wanted to say I think you’re funny. Once you get the bolt out (I would cut a notch and try a flat head because I don’t own an extractor), just get a stainless replacement at your local hardware store if you don’t already have a replacement. When you tighten a headset, turn the front wheel 90 deg and rock the bike back and forth. Only tighten the top cap bolt hard enough so that the play that will initially be there goes away. Good luck amigo
NegativePotato68 on
Remove the part stuck in the bung, and replace the bolt, seems like a standard dimension, look up what M width and length (overall)
Retropete12 on
Post nut clarity. It’s been over tightened?
pdxwanker on
Meh, get a new screw and star nut. Drive the old one out de bottom.
wcoastbo on
That doesn’t look like a star nut, I think it’s a compression plug. The plug has moved up the steerer tube and is now making contact with the top cap. That’s why the top cap bolt broke. You can’t pre-load the bearings until you move the compression plug further down into the steerer.
Remove the broken M5 bolt. Loosen the plug with a 6mm hex and move it down into the steerer tube. Then you’ll be able to pre-load the headset.
SubjectComputer7889 on
Looks like this is not nukeproof or you are the mother of all nukes.
12 Comments
That’s a bolt
Did you loosen the stem bolts first?
I normally use my penis to tension that bolt. Wth were you doing?
Drill and an extractor.
Steps to tighten play in stem (add preload):
1. Loosen stem bolts.
2. Tighten expander bolt – this doesn’t need massive amounts of force (certainly not enough to snap the expander bolt).
3. Tighten stem bolts.
4. (Optional) you can remove the cap and the expander bolt if you *really* wanted to. There job is (for now) done.
In your current situation – ez out. Or go the route of cutting a groove in what remains of the bolt and using a flat head screw driver. In my experience they both work, but the ex out is… well, easier.
I just wanted to say I think you’re funny. Once you get the bolt out (I would cut a notch and try a flat head because I don’t own an extractor), just get a stainless replacement at your local hardware store if you don’t already have a replacement. When you tighten a headset, turn the front wheel 90 deg and rock the bike back and forth. Only tighten the top cap bolt hard enough so that the play that will initially be there goes away. Good luck amigo
Remove the part stuck in the bung, and replace the bolt, seems like a standard dimension, look up what M width and length (overall)
Post nut clarity. It’s been over tightened?
Meh, get a new screw and star nut. Drive the old one out de bottom.
That doesn’t look like a star nut, I think it’s a compression plug. The plug has moved up the steerer tube and is now making contact with the top cap. That’s why the top cap bolt broke. You can’t pre-load the bearings until you move the compression plug further down into the steerer.
Remove the broken M5 bolt. Loosen the plug with a 6mm hex and move it down into the steerer tube. Then you’ll be able to pre-load the headset.
Looks like this is not nukeproof or you are the mother of all nukes.
I love your bike colour.